my track only 350z--in need of a diet
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if i was going all out- i'd cut the rear bumper about half way up to the reverse lights and put a flat sheet under neath to cover the rear. this will reduce the amount of air being caught and reduce wheel drag
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From: Scottsdale AZ
Thread Starter
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From: Scottsdale AZ
also, can i get rid of the NATS system?
wiring guru's, im in a wiring hell, theres alot so let me know which ones i can eliminate!
Focus on removing as much weight from the front of the car as you can. If you need to relocate things try to relocate them between the middle of the car and the rear axle.
Keeping the car extremely light will make it fast, but keeping the car balanced front to rear (and side to side) and with a low polar moment (majority of the weight is at the centre, makes the car nimble and responsive) will make it way fun to drive, and thats what counts!!
Of course in the front it is much more difficult to remove weight, and we often find ourselves adding weight there in the form of coolers, splitters, ducting etc.
But you can cut both rebars in half and drill holes in them, remove the battery, washer fluid resevoir/hoses/wiring, gut all the sidemarkers/corner lamps, gut the hood (leave the outer shell for stiffness), remove wiper assembly if you want to rely on rain-x! remove useless engine bay plastics like the battery cover, brake fluid cover, engine cover etc.
In the interior you want to remove all the airbags/computer/wiring, the airconditioning equipment, heater core, fan blower - basically take the dash off and get rid of everything.
Beyond that it starts to get expensive because instead of just removing parts and throwing them in the garbage you now have to replace meaningful parts with new, lighter aftermarket stuff
The one thing i'll say about building a race car though, is the proper way to do it is to bring it down to the bare shell - remove everything that can possibly be removed (engine, fuel tank, brake lines, EVERYTHING). Cage it, cut the metal out you don't want, put back what you need - and go racing. You'll always come out way lighter this way!
Keeping the car extremely light will make it fast, but keeping the car balanced front to rear (and side to side) and with a low polar moment (majority of the weight is at the centre, makes the car nimble and responsive) will make it way fun to drive, and thats what counts!!
Of course in the front it is much more difficult to remove weight, and we often find ourselves adding weight there in the form of coolers, splitters, ducting etc.
But you can cut both rebars in half and drill holes in them, remove the battery, washer fluid resevoir/hoses/wiring, gut all the sidemarkers/corner lamps, gut the hood (leave the outer shell for stiffness), remove wiper assembly if you want to rely on rain-x! remove useless engine bay plastics like the battery cover, brake fluid cover, engine cover etc.
In the interior you want to remove all the airbags/computer/wiring, the airconditioning equipment, heater core, fan blower - basically take the dash off and get rid of everything.
Beyond that it starts to get expensive because instead of just removing parts and throwing them in the garbage you now have to replace meaningful parts with new, lighter aftermarket stuff
The one thing i'll say about building a race car though, is the proper way to do it is to bring it down to the bare shell - remove everything that can possibly be removed (engine, fuel tank, brake lines, EVERYTHING). Cage it, cut the metal out you don't want, put back what you need - and go racing. You'll always come out way lighter this way!
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From: Scottsdale AZ
Focus on removing as much weight from the front of the car as you can. If you need to relocate things try to relocate them between the middle of the car and the rear axle.
Keeping the car extremely light will make it fast, but keeping the car balanced front to rear (and side to side) and with a low polar moment (majority of the weight is at the centre, makes the car nimble and responsive) will make it way fun to drive, and thats what counts!!
Of course in the front it is much more difficult to remove weight, and we often find ourselves adding weight there in the form of coolers, splitters, ducting etc.
But you can cut both rebars in half and drill holes in them, remove the battery, washer fluid resevoir/hoses/wiring, gut all the sidemarkers/corner lamps, gut the hood (leave the outer shell for stiffness), remove wiper assembly if you want to rely on rain-x! remove useless engine bay plastics like the battery cover, brake fluid cover, engine cover etc.
In the interior you want to remove all the airbags/computer/wiring, the airconditioning equipment, heater core, fan blower - basically take the dash off and get rid of everything.
Beyond that it starts to get expensive because instead of just removing parts and throwing them in the garbage you now have to replace meaningful parts with new, lighter aftermarket stuff
The one thing i'll say about building a race car though, is the proper way to do it is to bring it down to the bare shell - remove everything that can possibly be removed (engine, fuel tank, brake lines, EVERYTHING). Cage it, cut the metal out you don't want, put back what you need - and go racing. You'll always come out way lighter this way!
Keeping the car extremely light will make it fast, but keeping the car balanced front to rear (and side to side) and with a low polar moment (majority of the weight is at the centre, makes the car nimble and responsive) will make it way fun to drive, and thats what counts!!
Of course in the front it is much more difficult to remove weight, and we often find ourselves adding weight there in the form of coolers, splitters, ducting etc.
But you can cut both rebars in half and drill holes in them, remove the battery, washer fluid resevoir/hoses/wiring, gut all the sidemarkers/corner lamps, gut the hood (leave the outer shell for stiffness), remove wiper assembly if you want to rely on rain-x! remove useless engine bay plastics like the battery cover, brake fluid cover, engine cover etc.
In the interior you want to remove all the airbags/computer/wiring, the airconditioning equipment, heater core, fan blower - basically take the dash off and get rid of everything.
Beyond that it starts to get expensive because instead of just removing parts and throwing them in the garbage you now have to replace meaningful parts with new, lighter aftermarket stuff
The one thing i'll say about building a race car though, is the proper way to do it is to bring it down to the bare shell - remove everything that can possibly be removed (engine, fuel tank, brake lines, EVERYTHING). Cage it, cut the metal out you don't want, put back what you need - and go racing. You'll always come out way lighter this way!
so far everything out of the front end of the car is gone, with the exception of the motor. that means a/c, heater, wipers, bumper reinforcement bar, etc etc.
interior, everything is removed. all carpeting, trim, etc. doors are gutted, all heat and ac components gone. the only interior pieces remaining are the actual door panels (to keep everythiing in order and looking somewhat decent), the dash skeleton, and gauge clusters/center console section to the shifter. i just need to figure out what other wiring piece can be removed, and if i can ditch the NATS system. got 1 lightweight seat in there, and working on a cage at the moment. have to remove all the exhaust system as well, and the miscellaneous undercar weights.
after that is all done its time to start stiffening up the fram w/ gt spec pieces, and whatnot.
You can't ditch the NATS if you're using stock ECU. **** wont run.
If you don't have much experience with wiring then just leave all the harnessing stock and remove one module at a time and see if the car has any issues.
If you don't have much experience with wiring then just leave all the harnessing stock and remove one module at a time and see if the car has any issues.
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From: Scottsdale AZ
sounds like a good idea. wondering if i can just remove all the sound system wiring first and go from there.
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So am wondering. My buddy and i are working on a track car as well..not as extensive as this one but my question is this...If u remove the stock muffler for weight savings and have it just straight piped back out the car will u gain power or possibly loose due to tuning issues..and as long as u go that far what about straight piping the whole exhaust....no cats,no resonator..would this work or be a waste.
Depending on what you have removed is what you can unwire. Basically any unconnected connector, you can start cutting the loom and tape and trace it back. It is a real PITA to do it that way, but it works. I still need to strip out the wiring for the HVAC, airbags, stereo, rear defroster, etc...
The only thing that I need left wired up are the Speedo, tach, fuel gauge, and the tail lights. If I remember right the fuel sender goes through the white plastic box that sits under the radio area.
this is my interior, in several stages. More to go later
The only thing that I need left wired up are the Speedo, tach, fuel gauge, and the tail lights. If I remember right the fuel sender goes through the white plastic box that sits under the radio area.
this is my interior, in several stages. More to go later
Yeah, but he wants his car to go fast!
haha
is there anything in the engine internals that would help lighten the car? rotating mass with rods and pistons? I know the stock evo (03) had hollow cams in so when we replaced to HKS or Comp cams, we 'gained' weight but gained more HP too
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