288x without a cage and still stock sheet metal and glass. Have a kirk roll bar FWIW.

 

2400? Is that even physically possible?

 

well, maybe another 100 saved with all the glass out.

 

Put a full cage in it if you're going to gut the interior and the doors.

Friend of mine just built a an 2006 E46 Sedan with a Euro M3 motor. 2570 with driver. 2400 with no driver. Aluminum doors that are fully gutted. Plus, a full cage. They had to cut a lot out of the car to get to that weight.

 

dunno, it is my goal, but I just don't know. For a dragster it is a lot easier, but for a road course car I still want bumpers and I need rigidity, so time will tell.

 

awesome info guys, keep it coming! anybody know if some of the wiring, etc can be removed? i seem to have a bunch of extra wiring laying around in this car.

on a side note, the doors have this heavy brace going through the middle of it. can we remove this (reason i ask is the cf replacements dont have this beam, but i recall reading it was quite heavy)

 

that's the side impact beam mandated by the NIHS. For a track only car it is not required.

 

how does this come off? your a track junkie arent you mhoward?

 

He is, and so am I. The door beams are part of the inner structure of the door itself. Get out the sawsall if you must remove it, but be aware you're really lowering the side impact protection of the Z's monacoque and relying strictly on the cage to protect you. Also, some racing classes (SCCA T2 for one) will not allow this.

 

dkmura is correct. This also weakens the overall chassis regidity of the car.

BTW, I think I am beyond a track Junkie. I guess you can call me a Track crack dealer.


lol

 

Depending on what you have removed is what you can unwire. Basically any unconnected connector, you can start cutting the loom and tape and trace it back. It is a real PITA to do it that way, but it works. I still need to strip out the wiring for the HVAC, airbags, stereo, rear defroster, etc...

The only thing that I need left wired up are the Speedo, tach, fuel gauge, and the tail lights. If I remember right the fuel sender goes through the white plastic box that sits under the radio area.

this is my interior, in several stages. More to go later

 

Might as well pull the yaw sensor and harness out while you are at it. If you want to go real hardcore, pull the BCM out and all of that wiring and just use a pressure switch for your brake lights, and the rest you don't need. Go with an after market fuel level sensor, pull the solenoid for the hatch and go back to just having a cable release, or even more hard core and use quater turn fasteners. Also pull the quarter windows for lexan but integrate a NACA duct, you'll need it.

YOu can cut the engine surround out, it is ornamental anyway, solid motor mounts gnerally weigh less than the dampened style and are pretty cheap.

Test pipes weigh less than cats and single exit exhaust

I would keep the OE Brembo rotors, I've tried the Stoptech 2 piece rotors and was not impressed. I'll sell you my fronts if you want them.

You could pitch the OE strut bar, I doubt any of us on this forum could tell the difference if it was there or not.

Headlight deletes save some weight, maybe a couple of pounds, I'll weigh mine next time I do the swap.

Cheap bang for the buck is swapping the rear hatch glass for lexan, I think it is only a couple of hundred bucks for the lexan and that is a huge weight savings, also good to have the metal hatch if you ever plan on running a real wing that generates downforce.

That is about all of the cheap stuff, lemme know when you want to blow through some money. I save 23 pounds by swapping bolts. There are also other ways to blow through some cash, but that is later.

One thing I would HIGHLY recommend is swapping the lug studs on a track only car. I run the ARP subby lug studs. I have seen the OE studs several times and even the Nismo studs fail. they are ~$10 @ but I trust them.

I also have a set of Xerd headers I could sell you real cheap, they are the long tube style, which includes the header and test pipe, they are lighter than a manifold/TP or even a shorty header/TP setup. Any weight you can get out of the front is a plus.

 

^do the ARP stubby lug fit under closed end lug nuts?

where do you buy them?

 

I stated Subby as in Subaru lug studs, they are 3" long and do not fit under the OE NNA lug nuts, I run the Project Kicks R40s. I bought them at Summit racing. I suppose you could cut them down to fit under the OE lug nuts, but I really would recommend cutting them unless you can keep them cool while cutting them. Changing the temper of a LUg stud kind of makes me nervous, and there are not many things that do that.

 

dkmura, lightning guy, mhoward, you guys should post up some of your builds/tips/tricks.

lightning, as far as tracing the wiring back, you pull the pins then, or trace it back and cut it as far as possible?

 

Pulling the pins is cleaner and less chance of shorting things out.

 

thanks

 

No problem.

 

keep the info comin guys! any other places to remove weight? the entire evap system is comin out as well. what about the rear bumper support? i read that theyre only crash tested to 15mph..

if i remove the stock exhaust that leaves a big open space, should i drill speed holes in the rear?

 

Remove the engine. that will save close to 500 lbs.