I just ordered hawk hps pads and powerslot slotted rotors for my 06 base. Just wondering if anyone here is using this setup in autocross and if it made a difference? I am hoping for a little more bite and stopping power.

 

hps pads will help with a little better bite than oem, but slotted rotors wont feel any difference as most likely there will not be enough braking in auto x to experience drastic brake fade. Might want to save your money and just get blanks in the future and invest the money in brake ducts.

 

HPS + pads should have better bite than stock, but my HPS (non "+") pads have a little less bite than stock.

They are, however, easy to modulate, take a little more heat than stock pads, very kind to rotors, and also produce less brake dust.

Did you get the plus pads or the regular ones?

 

I run HP+ and they offer a little more bite. They also make a little more noise when cold and more dust than stock but it's no big deal. Slotted rotors wouldn't make a difference. A blank rotor actually has more surface area. If you don't track the car the only other thing you might do for better feel is stainless steel lines. The biggest thing people don't do in auto-x is press hard enough on the brake pedal. If your not braking hard enough now to get the ABS to kick in then better brakes are not going to be any better. Also if your not tracking the car, big brakes and brake ducks are a waste of money.

 

My only complaint about my hawk pads(ferro-carbon; not sure of anything else about them) and R1 drilled/slotted rotors is that they take a while to heat up, but once they do they stop waaay better than oem.

I would also recommend losing ABS for Autox >.< I plowed through a couple turns cuz mine randomly "worked".

 

????

 

Got me Last weekend I plowed through some cones because it kicked on at the end of a straight. Problem with that was that I wasn't able to stop and avoid the oncoming curb until I let off and hit them again. A friend unhooked the ABS(speed sensor?) after that run and had no issues following that.

 

I think something is wrong with your ABS.

ABS (that works properly) > no ABS.

 

That wouldn't be the first issue I have with this car x.x

I prefer no ABS on any vehicle I drive tbh. ABS isn't needed when you can think calmly enough to let off the brake to stop faster. Not implying anything: just an opinion.

 

No matter how good a driver you are, you only have one brake pedal. A properly functioning ABS system has four.

BTW, your ABS may not have broken. You might have experienced "ICE mode".

 

No, they're just the regular hps I believe. Thanks for the replies.

 

hps pads, suck, have fun! You should have gotten the HP+ pads for auto-x use. Do more research, there are better alternative to the HPS for street driven aggressive pads (StopTech Street Performance, Porject MU NS to name two popular choices).

 

The aftermarket pads are better than stock, however you won't feel any effects from the slotted rotors.

 

I think Z1 is right and you entered ICE mode. The 4 channel ABS systems will stop better than manual threshhold almost everytime.

 

I also agree. I don't mind the car going into ICE mode, but then again I'm used to 150+ lb. brake pedal pressure from driving formula cars. It's disconcerting to most people who are used to normal 10-15 lb. brake pedal pressure to have a "hard" brake pedal.

The easiest way to get the car into ICE mode in the dry is to brake when the front tires are light, such as going over a bump. The front tires have very little to no weight, and lock up immediately, so the ABS computer reads the small brake pressure and front lock up as being on ice.

 

You will not get any noticable gain out of slotted or drilled rotors in auto-x. That being said, brakes are probably the #2 upgrade for your car following tires for it. Check out the cobalt brakes...its what we have switched to on our race z for auto-x and the initial bite is awesome..There is no making up the ability to brake hard and actually slow the car down....AND yes...sounds like you hit ice mode....we hit it all the time here in st.louis on our course...anytime you are braking that hard and have bumpy situations your going to find it comes in to play...it is very very intrusive....but we have pulled the fuse that controls it and i would NOT recommend this as it will cause the rear to lock before the fronts on spirited braking...if you have not had the rear lock yet with this fuse out then you are not braking hard enough..good luck

 

on what everyone else has stated:

HP+ for more bite. Be sure to get your pads and tires up to temp. Might want to hit the skidpad first, unless they make you sit and stage before your run.

You probably won't feel and difference with the slotted rotors, unless your old rotors were pretty worn. BBK + SSL are your best best.

Have fun and don't hit any cones.

 

It may sound ridiculous but:

Do drilled slotted rotors weigh less than blanks?

Would it make sense to run some really worn out/thin rotors/pads, would they heat up more quickly or weigh less?

 

I guess they could be a little lighter than new blanks, and the fact that they are a rotating part makes the weight more significant....but "worn out" rotors can be dangerous, and slots / holes reduce friction area.

For autocross, heat tolerance should not be an issue with our cars. (due to the relatively short times involved.)

BTW, Where have you been man?!?

We have an event this weekend with more seat-time now.

 

I've been out of it since my son, Christian, was born, been real busy w/ all the kid stuff. Things are settling down now that he is almost 2 so I'm getting back out to events. Ran a couple of autox events nearby and a couple of track events @ HMS, I'm rusty but getting the hang of it again.

Dunno when I'll get back out to Ft. Myers, you should come down and do a track event @ Homestead!

Re: pads, I remember running Porterfield R4 or R4-S, they were way better than any of the Hawks mentioned here though they were probably a bit more tough on rotors.