OPTIMO

I'm thinking of trying to mount the Titek duct in the usual spot but a few inches lower, running tubing out of the circle end of the Titek duct, and then down to the new Nissan brake duct.

Mounting it lower, perhaps lining up the bottom of the Titek duct with the top of the main radiator opening in the front bumper.



Can't really tell if it's a circular opening or if you could pair up brake hosing to the inside end of the duct:



Then running the hose from inside the bumper to the back of the brake rotor (not sure this is possible as I haven't been under my car in awhile) using the new duct:



Last time I was at Pocono my front brakes overheated and it was only 80degree ambient.

Carbotech XP10 front and XP8 rear. Centric blanks. S03 rubber.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

not enough air

halfrice

iTrader: (30)

hole is actually very small on the inside of the titek duct, and is not round

RandomHer0

iTrader: (9)

Funny I had the same thought a while ago.

You can use something like this, http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...p?Product=3624


Its just not as pretty, but more functional.

OPTIMO

Thanks guys.

halfrice

iTrader: (30)

another good suggestion is go to your local auto parts store and pick up some air horns you can use instead

i was lucky a friend gave me 4" high temp ducting so i just got some abs couplings from home depot and attached to my V2 bumper, ill try to get pictures up one of these days

97supratt

iTrader: (61)

Your brakes shouldn't have overheated period on S03's! Either your fluid sucked, you had air in your fluid, or you were way too hard on your brakes.

I do agree that the titek duct doesn't generate enough CFM to your brake ducts though.

dnguyent

iTrader: (5)

I ordered two aluminum flanges (for 2 1/2" duct) from here:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...uctflanges.php

I am currently looking at two options:

1. Mount the air intake inside the grill opening, through the black cover plates, or
2. Drill a hole through the bumper.

I figure I'll just have the flanges riveted to the cover plate or bumper.

xzotklr

iTrader: (2)

Can always be wrapped in C/F!!

Flo-ridaZ33

iTrader: (60)

I ordered the Nismo kit and I'm going to run ducting into a Amuse front end similar to how guys do the older M3's do it for the intake stack. I have a Varis scoop and I don't think It'll push enough air to actually do any good. Here's some other options.

check this out:
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/p...t-p-99089.html

I believe there's a dude on here that used one of these but attached them on the lower factory diffuser pointing down. It looks like a solid option.

So here's my idea OP...





Using those area's that I inserted on there(Photobucket special...oh yea) I'd mount the scoops to the backside of the bumper and route them to the ducts. The Nismo CF inlet is said to be 2.5 inches but I'm not sure, I ordered mine through Adam at Z1auto and he's going to open the box to see what is really inside. I'm not 100% sure this will be efficient being that there's an extra foot of ducting on both sides but being the scoops will be on the front front bumper, I believe you'd actually get more cool air. I'm not sure of the diameter of the BMW intake scoops but they look pretty large. Opinions?

flynbrin

iTrader: (29)

niiiice

Flo-ridaZ33

iTrader: (60)

I just clicked on the link and the 2.5 (P/N 10350-10) look perfect... thanks.

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

also, maybe get a front bumper that has openings or fog light openings to route ducts?


Connect ducts to these openings:


Loose the fogs - connect ducts:


-J

97supratt

iTrader: (61)

Those make more sense. The vents have to be low, where the brakes would be, not up high.

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

I probably wouldn't ever do this mod.........but it just intrigues me is all..

See im not a road racer, so i dont have to worry about brake temps, etc..Im a Drifter and occasionally autoX (because its cheap and frequent)

I would use some of the flanges, bumper with holes, brake duct (Nissan motorsports or the pegasus one shown) and route tubes like mentioned...I would however resin the ducts except at flex points so that they can stay conformed and shaped/routed as i would want.

the lil aluminum bracket idea is great off the steering stop striker, but the one shown is just silly weak sauce in comparison to what im sure some of you guys can fab up to work.

post pics......im curious to see all this...

*editing thread so its clear and easy to follow - pics, etc...
-J

GT-Rob

iTrader: (5)

I think the grill (or that area) is the best place to start, and its going to give you the most direct route to the brakes. The thread on here about brake ducts where he used the original plastic bit is really well done.

Last season I had mine simply zip-tied to the grill with nothing but just pointed at the back of the rotor, and it brought brake temps down nearly 25% making them only slightly hotter than the rears. I just finished the new openings thats basically $5 worth of aluminum and a free afternoon with a spare bumper. An aftermarket bumper is the way to go - assuming its allowed in your class - but isn't cheap. Spare bumpers can be had for cheap, or you can hack up your current one.





My method allows for an extra 3in or so letting me make a less sharp turn than using the plastic pieces. Remember to take into account the routing of that ducting. Theres not as much space as one would think, and sharp 90 degree turns are not going help air flow.

Flo-ridaZ33

iTrader: (60)

^Did you cut the center out? I still have the OEM slits on my 06+ front end but my Chargespeed took ages to get to me(I'd cry if I damaged it) hence my choice for a replica "big mouth" front end for the track.

mw9

iTrader: (51)

Just what I was looking for, thanks.