What sidewall do you recommend with 245 or 255. I am running the track rims.

 

I don't mind the 255/35, but I'm different. My car is low and I don't care that the speedo is way off because of them.

The 245 comes in both a 40 and 45 series. A 245/40 front and 245/45 rear would work, but then you couldn't put the rears on the front. If you wanted to put rear to front and vice-versa, I think you'd have to go with the 245/40s all around.

 

Post #9

 

i run 245/45 on all 4....it feels real...does brake loose when i want it to though...like when im "drifting" and clutch kicks it doesnt slide out like it did staggered...

 

I run 265/35 all around.. love it. Way more neutral than the 245/275 on my street set.

I'm purchasing a Miata.. does that count as a mod for the off-season?

 

Guys with experience please chime in on this scenario:

Here's my concern as it relates to the track I run at.

When coming off of the straight left turn in, I try to hold speed as long as possible. Upon braking which is hard on stock brakes with Hawk pads stock tires, I get a scary feel where the *** end almost wants to come around on me even prior to turn in.

Obviously my thinking is better tires or better braking to hold speed, but what driving wise and set-up wise can remedy the above?

Thoughts/suggestions?

 

If you mean it feels a alittle squirrelly when your hard on the brakes and feeding a little direction in to steering wheel... that's pretty much any street car. There are remedies that help, including more grip (tires), suspension mods, and alignment help... but in general we all have that to some degree. I think the best remedy for it is a decent suspension but that's me calling on experience from different car make, never tried it on the Z.

 

Read Speed Secrets by Ross Bentley...and your driving will improve over time...you will learn to use all the tires/brakes/***** that you have

http://www.amazon.com/Speed-Secrets-...2765433&sr=1-1

 

Are you braking after turn in? A hard brake after you are already turning in will make the rear end rotate out. Try getting the speed set before you start the turn in, and concentrate more on exit speeds than entry speeds.

 

Well it's on the straight prior to turn in trying to carry speed late, having to break hard to turn in. obviously the car dives, abs trips but also a few times, the rear feels unsettled almost as if it wants to come around at that point. I could have been trailbreaking slightly, I don't have any video to remember from my sessions.

 

Just an update:

Recently purchased a used set of bc's coils and some brembo calipers(need rotors)

Up next will be Rpf1's and tires hopefully in the next couple months before the car comes out of storage.

 

I was in pretty much the same position as you last year. I completely agree with the guys who said to prioritize tires and dedicated pads. One thing you mentioned; that you would chirp the abs on braking; that's a good sign that you don't need more braking power until you upgrade your tires to improve your grip. Ultimately that's where you get the most bang for your buck. Last year I used the stock non-Brembo brakes, first with EBC Yellow pads, then with Carbotech XP10's (MUCH better!) and used Ford Dot 3 fluid (cheap, high boil point, used by lots of people on track). Also upgraded to Goodridge stainless lines. I had minimal fade with the Carbos. Tires were Falken RT615's; 245's front, 275's rear, on MB Weapon 17 x 9 +17 (I think). These rims are quite light, quite cheap, and available from Discount Tire Direct. This winter I am, like you, upgrading to Brembos for a little extra capacity, and will stick with Carbotech XP10's for the track. I also have a Motordyne sway bar set, currently set to middle stiffness front and rear; I haven't started to play with the sway settings yet; I had some oversteer in the wet on one track which is very tight (all braking and turns) but otherwise the car felt pretty neutral.

Good luck with your mods; it's a challenge getting the most out of your car on the track while not spending a fortune, but fortunately the Z is a pretty decent track car right from the get-go, which makes it a lot easier

 

^ Thanks man.

I was using the stock brakes with Hawk Racing pads and street tires basically with stock sizes. Looking to upgrade rims and tires, but having a hard time finding used. Spent a lot of money on coils and brakes recently.

 

Check out Discount Tire for the MB wheels; they're only $140/wheel in 17x9 and you can get a great deal on a package with mounted/balanced tires. I'm really cheap, and that's what I did Having said that, you will notice a bigger difference by upgrading tires (whether you change wheels or not) than with any other change; it's actually pretty difficult to really get the benefits from other upgrades, particularly brakes, without doing so. The other thing to consider is that tires are very much a wear item on track; whether you buy new tires that really meet your needs for that application (track driving) or stick with stock type tires, you will burn them up at the same rate anyway (actually, many street type tires will wear faster on the track, despite their higher treadwear ratings) and you'll ultimately spend the same money by the end of the year, so you might as well have tires that are designed for the job. There; hope that helps if you needed some assistance with rationalizing spending the money. You're welcome

 

I like the those mb wheels however im looking for practicality also. The 18's are nice but not so much lightweight. So, looking for a set of lightweight 18's like an RPF1 w/ a good sticky tire

 

Good idea if you want to just use one set of wheel/tires. I kept my stock Touring 18's and keep Toyo Proxes 4 all seasons on them, and just put the 17's on when I head for the track. The track package is surprisingly street friendly, though.