Lol ..

Now you need to learn to drift

 

My abs unit fried early last year dont know why and i didnt want to pay 1600 to change it. So since then iv been runing with out abs its very hard to auto x a z with out abs. I mainly do open track events and i feal i have much more control over the car with out abs but thats me and mine is trailered to events too.

 

+1 and +1 on mhoward's comments as well.

You think you only upset the car when you get on the brakes? Welcome to performance driving 101 -- you upset the car getting on AND OFF the brakes (and turning too) unless you're very smooth. Any time you transfer weight, you have the potential to upset the car.

Edit: Oh, and trying to drive a car without ABS that is designed to use ABS is going to be extremely difficult. Design decisions for systems aren't made in a vacuum -- the systems are designed to work together.

 

I turn off VDC, and I'll be honest, if Im lapping and ABS is kicking in, I know Im doing it wrong. Wrong line, wrong setup, wrong braking points. I need to make a driving change.

It helps me correct those issues.

Smooth laps = faster times.

 

Well, about 4+ years ago, my ABS module fried. I had it repaired by ModuleMaster, but it didn't work. I did not want to spend $1300 for a new unit, so I just disconnected the harness, and just drove it ABS free for a few years. Initially, the balance was awful, and the rear would lock up before the fronts. After a couple scary track days, I finally got a pad combo that worked (Raybestos ST-43 fronts and Ferodo 2500 rear pads). In the process, I learned how to brake very smoothly.

However, when tires start to get old and/or overheated, braking predictability plunges, and I ended up flatspotting a few tires. When the tires lock up, it's pretty darn scary.

Last year, I decided that I've had enough of it, and bought an ABS module from a scrapyard (for $150). I replaced it, and got the ABS system and TC working again. I tore apart the old ABS module, and found that it wasn't the computer that had fried. It was the ABS pump that had seized!

I have yet to sign up for another track day to enjoy the security of an ABS system. But, I must say that driving without ABS was a great way to learn how to brake properly. With predictable tires and proper front-to-rear brake balance, it was an enjoyable experience.

 

i guess the abs pump frying is common, mines currently fried and in the process of saving up to fix it. Been to about 3 track events with the abs unit fried and have not locked up the tires, but then again i took it easier because i did not know how the car would react with a fried abs unit. Is the pump an easy swap? been debating if i should do the work myself or just pay a shop to guarantee the work.

 

I had some brake fluid contamination a long time ago, and it required a new master cylinder. I believe the ABS pump seizure is a related incident. A mechanic accidentally poured mineral based oil into the brake fluid reservoir instead of brake fluid, and that caused all the seals to swell.

 

The fried abs Pump is easy to change. But it is hard to find the right one I tried 2 abs pumps exactally same year and model and same type of traction control system cost 200 each and had no luck. Maybe the dealer has to program them I don't know. I'm just going to wait till I have enough money to send it to the dealer. For now I feel my track times are faster without abs.

 

What's the symptom of having fried ABS? simply not working?

 

You should hear the ABS pump cycle the first time you pass 10 MPH after starting the car.

 

when it is fried, or when it is not fried?

 

^^im curious too.

 

When we first built our cars, we had to remove the wiring harness entirely to run a stand alone ECU. The ABS wouldn't work with the new ECU, so we had to run it as it was. The order in which the car applies pressure to the wheels is, to a rear wheel first (forgot if it was Left vs. Right), then to one of the front wheels, then the other rear wheel, then the other front wheel.

There is NOT equal pressure to the rear brakes, and equal pressure to the front brakes. Running a 350Z without the ABS controller will not help the car go faster or really give you a good sense of the limit because the weight applied to each corner of the car changes whenever you turn the wheel or go over a bump or rise.

Our car was downright scary to drive during a race without any form of ABS. Most teams prior to us replaced the whole booster with a new brake master system. Prior to our current stand alone ABS system we have in the car, it was the only other viable alternative.

 

Normally (non-fried) you should hear the ABS pump cycle when you drive over about 10 MPH (page 5-21 of the 2005 Nissan 350Z Owner's Manual).

 

You know you have a fried ABS Module when the ABS light on the dash goes on. The car does a self diagnostic when you start the car, and while you drive, and if something is amiss, that light will turn on and stay on.

 

mine sounds like a vibrator when the cars on or off, i just leave it unplugged for now.

 

is that a sound you are really familar with??

 

It's veering slightly off topic, but I'm curious. Can you expand on why it was scary to drive w/o ABS? Is it because the stock system is biased to the rear? It is in my '04 Enthusiast.

 

It's because the braking system was designed around the presence of the ABS, and without it the braking balance will be severely off.

 

Definition of 'scary' by use of example: When you're going into a corner at 140 MPH and you're hard on the brakes trying to scrub speed to make it through the corner without sliding into a wall, it gets kinda scary. ;-)

The rear tire would start to skid, then the front, and that kind of dynamic was hard to control and predict at speed from corner to corner.

Not what you need when racing. You want a car that is very repeatable, and with the ABS off, you won't get that without replacing the brake booster and master cylinder.

(We now have a stand alone ABS system that works great. You can stomp on the brakes, and it works without hesitation.)