serious race prepped build and i need some advice.
04-05-2011, 01:39 PM
#21
I'd say X-out the Haltech to make room for something like KW's Clubsports or revalved and re-sprung V3's. If the cost is still too high, look in to a set of custom-valved Konis and springs like stated earlier. Follow what Beta was suggesting you look up about the roll cage.
For braking, look into the Wilwoods for a braking solution, they have a ton of options and reasonable replacement/consumables pricing.
I didn't see which XXR's you were refering to, but more than likely they will be a bit heavier than you really want (I'd say try to keep the wheel weight down and around 18-22lbs). Most importantly, leave room for a sets of the stickiest tires the rules allow and the remaining saftey gear.
For braking, look into the Wilwoods for a braking solution, they have a ton of options and reasonable replacement/consumables pricing.
I didn't see which XXR's you were refering to, but more than likely they will be a bit heavier than you really want (I'd say try to keep the wheel weight down and around 18-22lbs). Most importantly, leave room for a sets of the stickiest tires the rules allow and the remaining saftey gear.
Last edited by Zazz93; 04-05-2011 at 01:41 PM.
04-05-2011, 02:08 PM
#23
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Honestly i would just invest in something strong for now, RPF1 is good, Rota has some nice ones, hell at $125 each i may even just think of running some XXR 18x9.5 front and rear for wheel to wheel racing. May be cheaper in the long run. Then once you cut your teeth, upgrade to a better wheel.
04-05-2011, 05:10 PM
#24
Don't build a car that will not win in the targeted class no matter what you spend (like a 350Z in a NASA ST class) 
It will be a terrible waste of money...
You can build a legal NASA PTB or SCCA T2 car far cheaper than what you are proposing...however you will not likely win at a National level, but you will at least be in the game in the Regional level.
My advice is to purchase a SCCA T2 class legal (Koni DA and Nismo springs) suspension and wheels and then run the hell out of it in SCCA T2 and NASA PTB class till you run out of money or talent
Note: I race a 350Z Track in NASA PTB class today. I purchased this car already built/race ready...and it was NOT built to class rules and thus is handicapped in many areas. For NASA, starting with a non-Track Model free up points for some serious Brakes. My car has headers and no cats, thus costing me points that could be used on bigger tires. It has some Tein Bling-Bling Coil-overs, and Koni Yellows shocks would work better. However I purchased this car CHEAP, and it runs fine and I have fun at every event!
It will be a terrible waste of money...You can build a legal NASA PTB or SCCA T2 car far cheaper than what you are proposing...however you will not likely win at a National level, but you will at least be in the game in the Regional level.
My advice is to purchase a SCCA T2 class legal (Koni DA and Nismo springs) suspension and wheels and then run the hell out of it in SCCA T2 and NASA PTB class till you run out of money or talent
Note: I race a 350Z Track in NASA PTB class today. I purchased this car already built/race ready...and it was NOT built to class rules and thus is handicapped in many areas. For NASA, starting with a non-Track Model free up points for some serious Brakes. My car has headers and no cats, thus costing me points that could be used on bigger tires. It has some Tein Bling-Bling Coil-overs, and Koni Yellows shocks would work better. However I purchased this car CHEAP, and it runs fine and I have fun at every event!
Last edited by laze1; 04-05-2011 at 05:24 PM.
04-06-2011, 02:34 PM
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I almost don't know where to start. I raced for over 36 years, was chief instructor twice for Washington, DC Region for a total of 4.5 years and now crew for my son who has raced a 350Z in SCCA T2 anbd now T3 for starting on 6 years and a couple of camaros for another 8 years.
I wish I had seen your post before you jumped to so many wrong conclusions. The first thing you should have done was go to a SCCA race and find someone who races a 350Z and ask questons, volunteer to crew and get as much knowledge about the racing as you can. Believe me its not easy to build a legal car. Then go to the SCCA website and look up the rules and print them out. The 350Z will fit in 3 GT classes, 2 touring classes and one improved touring classes. Pick a class you want to run in. T3 is cheaper than T2 and those two are cheaper than all of the rest if you are building a serious wining car. All of the SCCA rules limit drastically what you can do to build a legal car. We are currently running a T3 car last year and this year.
Also pay particular attention to the rollcage rules or you will be either sent home or be protested. Keep in mind that a legal SCCA cage is accepted by any group you wish to race with, especially NASA if you are going that direction.
In touring 2 and 3 you are basically building a very stock car when it comes to the engine and transmission. You also have to run the stock flywheel and clutch. This means you have to optimize everything else in the car that you can possibly do. The exhaust has to come out the back of the car, you can run any brake pad on the Brembo brakes. You are limited to an 18" wheel for touring and in t3 all of them have to be 18 x 8.5 but you can space them out as far as you want, but not beyond the outside line of the fenders. You can run the Nissan swaybars and spring kit. We run an Enkei wheel that weights about 18# and is very strong. We also run JRZ triple adjustable shocks that retail for about $7500 for a set of 4. We run nitrogen in them and if you don't have a lot of seat time you will never get them set properly. I advice you get some double adjustable JRZ or Koni. You need a K&N air filter, Red Line Oil in engine, trans and differential. We also use it in the power steering and replace it before every race by sucking out everything we can get out of the resevoir because the power steering rack and pinion are a weak point. You also need some safety stuff like a really good seat, seat belts, window net and we use a large fire extinguisher that can be set off with a quick hit to a release button. Costly but we have already had one fire at 135 mph at VIR and that will really get your attention.
A budget for a competitive T2 or T3 car is about the same at $ 20k and that will include a decent cage. Our cage guy charges $2600 and that includes installing your seat, window net. He's one of the best and has done 3 cars for us. I am sure there are more things to tell you to look out for including alignment tools and what settings to hit but if you follow the SCCA rule book you won't go wrong. There are several people who have suggested advice including John at Beta, Howard, and Scotts who have vast knowledge who can and will help you. Believe me, its cheaper to build it right the first time.
Bob Hines
I wish I had seen your post before you jumped to so many wrong conclusions. The first thing you should have done was go to a SCCA race and find someone who races a 350Z and ask questons, volunteer to crew and get as much knowledge about the racing as you can. Believe me its not easy to build a legal car. Then go to the SCCA website and look up the rules and print them out. The 350Z will fit in 3 GT classes, 2 touring classes and one improved touring classes. Pick a class you want to run in. T3 is cheaper than T2 and those two are cheaper than all of the rest if you are building a serious wining car. All of the SCCA rules limit drastically what you can do to build a legal car. We are currently running a T3 car last year and this year.
Also pay particular attention to the rollcage rules or you will be either sent home or be protested. Keep in mind that a legal SCCA cage is accepted by any group you wish to race with, especially NASA if you are going that direction.
In touring 2 and 3 you are basically building a very stock car when it comes to the engine and transmission. You also have to run the stock flywheel and clutch. This means you have to optimize everything else in the car that you can possibly do. The exhaust has to come out the back of the car, you can run any brake pad on the Brembo brakes. You are limited to an 18" wheel for touring and in t3 all of them have to be 18 x 8.5 but you can space them out as far as you want, but not beyond the outside line of the fenders. You can run the Nissan swaybars and spring kit. We run an Enkei wheel that weights about 18# and is very strong. We also run JRZ triple adjustable shocks that retail for about $7500 for a set of 4. We run nitrogen in them and if you don't have a lot of seat time you will never get them set properly. I advice you get some double adjustable JRZ or Koni. You need a K&N air filter, Red Line Oil in engine, trans and differential. We also use it in the power steering and replace it before every race by sucking out everything we can get out of the resevoir because the power steering rack and pinion are a weak point. You also need some safety stuff like a really good seat, seat belts, window net and we use a large fire extinguisher that can be set off with a quick hit to a release button. Costly but we have already had one fire at 135 mph at VIR and that will really get your attention.
A budget for a competitive T2 or T3 car is about the same at $ 20k and that will include a decent cage. Our cage guy charges $2600 and that includes installing your seat, window net. He's one of the best and has done 3 cars for us. I am sure there are more things to tell you to look out for including alignment tools and what settings to hit but if you follow the SCCA rule book you won't go wrong. There are several people who have suggested advice including John at Beta, Howard, and Scotts who have vast knowledge who can and will help you. Believe me, its cheaper to build it right the first time.
Bob Hines
04-07-2011, 10:19 AM
#30
I almost don't know where to start. I raced for over 36 years, was chief instructor twice for Washington, DC Region for a total of 4.5 years and now crew for my son who has raced a 350Z in SCCA T2 anbd now T3 for starting on 6 years and a couple of camaros for another 8 years.
I wish I had seen your post before you jumped to so many wrong conclusions. The first thing you should have done was go to a SCCA race and find someone who races a 350Z and ask questons, volunteer to crew and get as much knowledge about the racing as you can. Believe me its not easy to build a legal car. Then go to the SCCA website and look up the rules and print them out. The 350Z will fit in 3 GT classes, 2 touring classes and one improved touring classes. Pick a class you want to run in. T3 is cheaper than T2 and those two are cheaper than all of the rest if you are building a serious wining car. All of the SCCA rules limit drastically what you can do to build a legal car. We are currently running a T3 car last year and this year.
Also pay particular attention to the rollcage rules or you will be either sent home or be protested. Keep in mind that a legal SCCA cage is accepted by any group you wish to race with, especially NASA if you are going that direction.
In touring 2 and 3 you are basically building a very stock car when it comes to the engine and transmission. You also have to run the stock flywheel and clutch. This means you have to optimize everything else in the car that you can possibly do. The exhaust has to come out the back of the car, you can run any brake pad on the Brembo brakes. You are limited to an 18" wheel for touring and in t3 all of them have to be 18 x 8.5 but you can space them out as far as you want, but not beyond the outside line of the fenders. You can run the Nissan swaybars and spring kit. We run an Enkei wheel that weights about 18# and is very strong. We also run JRZ triple adjustable shocks that retail for about $7500 for a set of 4. We run nitrogen in them and if you don't have a lot of seat time you will never get them set properly. I advice you get some double adjustable JRZ or Koni. You need a K&N air filter, Red Line Oil in engine, trans and differential. We also use it in the power steering and replace it before every race by sucking out everything we can get out of the resevoir because the power steering rack and pinion are a weak point. You also need some safety stuff like a really good seat, seat belts, window net and we use a large fire extinguisher that can be set off with a quick hit to a release button. Costly but we have already had one fire at 135 mph at VIR and that will really get your attention.
A budget for a competitive T2 or T3 car is about the same at $ 20k and that will include a decent cage. Our cage guy charges $2600 and that includes installing your seat, window net. He's one of the best and has done 3 cars for us. I am sure there are more things to tell you to look out for including alignment tools and what settings to hit but if you follow the SCCA rule book you won't go wrong. There are several people who have suggested advice including John at Beta, Howard, and Scotts who have vast knowledge who can and will help you. Believe me, its cheaper to build it right the first time.
Bob Hines
I wish I had seen your post before you jumped to so many wrong conclusions. The first thing you should have done was go to a SCCA race and find someone who races a 350Z and ask questons, volunteer to crew and get as much knowledge about the racing as you can. Believe me its not easy to build a legal car. Then go to the SCCA website and look up the rules and print them out. The 350Z will fit in 3 GT classes, 2 touring classes and one improved touring classes. Pick a class you want to run in. T3 is cheaper than T2 and those two are cheaper than all of the rest if you are building a serious wining car. All of the SCCA rules limit drastically what you can do to build a legal car. We are currently running a T3 car last year and this year.
Also pay particular attention to the rollcage rules or you will be either sent home or be protested. Keep in mind that a legal SCCA cage is accepted by any group you wish to race with, especially NASA if you are going that direction.
In touring 2 and 3 you are basically building a very stock car when it comes to the engine and transmission. You also have to run the stock flywheel and clutch. This means you have to optimize everything else in the car that you can possibly do. The exhaust has to come out the back of the car, you can run any brake pad on the Brembo brakes. You are limited to an 18" wheel for touring and in t3 all of them have to be 18 x 8.5 but you can space them out as far as you want, but not beyond the outside line of the fenders. You can run the Nissan swaybars and spring kit. We run an Enkei wheel that weights about 18# and is very strong. We also run JRZ triple adjustable shocks that retail for about $7500 for a set of 4. We run nitrogen in them and if you don't have a lot of seat time you will never get them set properly. I advice you get some double adjustable JRZ or Koni. You need a K&N air filter, Red Line Oil in engine, trans and differential. We also use it in the power steering and replace it before every race by sucking out everything we can get out of the resevoir because the power steering rack and pinion are a weak point. You also need some safety stuff like a really good seat, seat belts, window net and we use a large fire extinguisher that can be set off with a quick hit to a release button. Costly but we have already had one fire at 135 mph at VIR and that will really get your attention.
A budget for a competitive T2 or T3 car is about the same at $ 20k and that will include a decent cage. Our cage guy charges $2600 and that includes installing your seat, window net. He's one of the best and has done 3 cars for us. I am sure there are more things to tell you to look out for including alignment tools and what settings to hit but if you follow the SCCA rule book you won't go wrong. There are several people who have suggested advice including John at Beta, Howard, and Scotts who have vast knowledge who can and will help you. Believe me, its cheaper to build it right the first time.
Bob Hines
I always enjoy and listen to what you have to say. . .I wish I could get a complete SCCA-legal cage installed out here for $2600! I'm shopping around, but it's looking quite costly.
04-11-2011, 12:04 PM
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racer bob i dont want to race t3 because of the strict rules and im already to deep to retrace my steps. t2 lets you modify but from my understanding of the rules, which i have spent alot of time and paper reading and rereading, it has a very limited selection from which to pick for your modifications so id prefer to build into sccas sto after running nasas pt. i have already volunteered for a formula vee formula ford team which is not a 350z but it will still help i believe. i honestly am just trying to get onto the track. i can always spend money later. i have already come to the conclusion that i will have to drop atleast 5 grand for good suspension. i was unaware that it was so pricey for those components but i found out really quick from everyone how silly i was being. i am learning as i go.
04-11-2011, 12:11 PM
#33
Do you have your heart set on using the 350Z? There are some great series you can get into for what the suspension and brakes are going to cost you on your current car alone.
Right now Spec Miata and Spec E30 are the most active AM series around, and there is a lot of great talent coming up through those ranks.
Right now Spec Miata and Spec E30 are the most active AM series around, and there is a lot of great talent coming up through those ranks.
04-18-2011, 12:19 AM
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unfortunately mhoward i already own the car and ive already spent way to much money and time building it.
i have another question though if somebody could help me out.
are the brembo calipers oem capable enough or do they boil fluid at a certain tire width on racing slicks. are they a good option for the track basically?
if not where can i find a used big brake that i can just rebuild?
i have another question though if somebody could help me out.
are the brembo calipers oem capable enough or do they boil fluid at a certain tire width on racing slicks. are they a good option for the track basically?
if not where can i find a used big brake that i can just rebuild?
04-18-2011, 05:52 AM
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ive been looking most of the night and for a couple hundred more i can get akebono 370z brake conversion with stoptech ventilated discs and that includes stainless steel lines which considering i would have to get rotors for the oem 350z brembos anyway i am thinking that is my best option right now
04-18-2011, 06:25 AM
#37
the akebono 370z brake sutup doesn't have a very good race pad selection right now...so you will be VERY limited if you go that way
ive been looking most of the night and for a couple hundred more i can get akebono 370z brake conversion with stoptech ventilated discs and that includes stainless steel lines which considering i would have to get rotors for the oem 350z brembos anyway i am thinking that is my best option right now
04-18-2011, 07:40 AM
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The Brembo brakes that come with the track model car are adequate to stop the car. We use Carbotech pads and they are great. Call Carbotech and talk to Chris or Danny at 877.899.5024 and tell them Bob Hines sent you.
I really don't understand why you are building a car that doesn't fit in the normal accepted classes in either SCCA or NASA. You will end up in some class with cars that there is no way you will be competitive. I can't see how you will be happy being lapped and finishing at the end of the pack all the time. Those who have said that you can usually buy a car a lot cheaper than you can build one is absolutely right. We prefer to build our own and are now on our 5th build for my son and I can tell you its not cheap but there are cars that guys have given up on that are very buyable.
I really don't understand why you are building a car that doesn't fit in the normal accepted classes in either SCCA or NASA. You will end up in some class with cars that there is no way you will be competitive. I can't see how you will be happy being lapped and finishing at the end of the pack all the time. Those who have said that you can usually buy a car a lot cheaper than you can build one is absolutely right. We prefer to build our own and are now on our 5th build for my son and I can tell you its not cheap but there are cars that guys have given up on that are very buyable.
04-18-2011, 12:25 PM
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The Brembo brakes that come with the track model car are adequate to stop the car. We use Carbotech pads and they are great. Call Carbotech and talk to Chris or Danny at 877.899.5024 and tell them Bob Hines sent you.
I really don't understand why you are building a car that doesn't fit in the normal accepted classes in either SCCA or NASA. You will end up in some class with cars that there is no way you will be competitive. I can't see how you will be happy being lapped and finishing at the end of the pack all the time. Those who have said that you can usually buy a car a lot cheaper than you can build one is absolutely right. We prefer to build our own and are now on our 5th build for my son and I can tell you its not cheap but there are cars that guys have given up on that are very buyable.
I really don't understand why you are building a car that doesn't fit in the normal accepted classes in either SCCA or NASA. You will end up in some class with cars that there is no way you will be competitive. I can't see how you will be happy being lapped and finishing at the end of the pack all the time. Those who have said that you can usually buy a car a lot cheaper than you can build one is absolutely right. We prefer to build our own and are now on our 5th build for my son and I can tell you its not cheap but there are cars that guys have given up on that are very buyable.
what would you suggest i do as an alternative?
04-18-2011, 12:49 PM
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i might have seen your car at vir last year in april i think. is it a blue z with an orange stripe running brembos and stock 18s or silver with yellow lettering on it with i think the rpf1s? those are the only two i've really seen race in person.