laze1

iTrader: (17)

Correct, I have ZERO points available or I have to bump up to PTA, which would have me racing Z06s...right.

I can run Single or double adjustable shocks, WITHOUT external reservoirs without taking any more points.

This is what I am taking today for shocks and springs and ASBs:

3) Non-OEM or modified/re-valved shocks/struts/dampers +3 (all others) (springs not included)
5) Non-OEM or modified coil springs, leaf springs/spacers/brackets, or torsion bars +2
7) Add, replace, remove, or modify anti-roll bars (“sway” bars—front, rear, or both—may have spherical joints on the end
links and/or relocation of the mounting points without additional points assessment) +2

Just been doing some measurements, and I think the car is setup too low, and I am hitting the rear (and maybe front) bump stops...I have weighed the car, but not done a corner balance or ride-heigth adjustments...Sounds like that is a must-do at this point.

Note: I purchased the car late last year, ran a few races, and now am trying to make it drive well for me. Working on the driver 1st...then the car

From NASA classification forms:

E. SUSPENSION:
1) Non-OEM shocks/struts/dampers with an external reservoir or more than two ranges of adjustment—must still take
points for springs below +10 (example: compression (bump) and both high & low rebound adjustments).
2) Non-OEM shocks/struts/dampers with a “Piggy Back” external reservoir (fixed reservoir without a connecting hose) OR
with shaft diameter 40mm or greater—must still take additional points for the springs below +7
3) Non-OEM or modified/re-valved shocks/struts/dampers +3 (all others) (springs not included)
4) Changing the mounting orientation/design of the OEM shock and/or spring perch in order to invert the shocks/struts
(includes non-OEM inverted shocks/struts) +1
5) Non-OEM or modified coil springs, leaf springs/spacers/brackets, or torsion bars +2
6) Conversion of torsion bar/leaf spring suspension to coil spring and strut/shock suspension +2
7) Add, replace, remove, or modify anti-roll bars (“sway” bars—front, rear, or both—may have spherical joints on the end
links and/or relocation of the mounting points without additional points assessment) +2

laze1

iTrader: (17)

Well, I may have figured out my handling problems...my car is too low and hitting the bump-stops. (Rear for sure, fronts maybe) Now I feel stupid...

Note: I didn't set the suspension up, a nationally known "Pro Shop" did!

It was setup this way when I bought it...but the car has been trying to kill me since i got it. This is something I should have checked right from the get-go...

So tomorrow I will raise the car up and then take it for a corner balance while i supervise :-)

However, I still need a new suspension :-)

Shamu Z

Oh ...I just run TTS. I dont care about being top in my class however. I just drive flat out.

Zazz93

iTrader: (2)

If I'm not mistaken, the Z33 uses the bump stops quite often, this is not to say your not too low... just saying ask around to confirm how much of the stops are to be used at a given time.

laze1

iTrader: (17)

So today I really looked at the ride height problem.,,and it was worse than I thought.

The rear was sitting on the bump stops 100%...raised it about 2" to get <1" of clearance between the bump stop and the Shock Mount... And that took almost all the available adjustment range...maybe a 1/2" left.

The front had <1 " of clearance...so I only raised that about 3/4"

Question" Are Tein Flex systems known to have problems being lowered?

laze1

iTrader: (17)

Well, in my case it makes the car VERY EVIL on a bumpy track...either the front or the rear just steps out without warning...and in this condition adjusting the shocks does nothing...it just bounces down the track...see the vid below from recent NASA-SE race @ Carolina Motorsports park

http://vimeo.com/23294381

Zazz93

iTrader: (2)

Yeah that comment was prior to your last entry, clarifing for me, that it is probably too low. But don't forget if someone else did the install (previous owner) they may have put a larger than need stop on there or not cut to Tein's specs (if needed). Lots of variables.

From the vid you posted I did notice some odd car pitching from the suspension setup issues. Hard to tell if the front is underdampened or if the rear's problem of riding on the bump stops is over-transfering (probably not the best term) back to the front causing the Porsche-like porpoising and what sounds to be a lack of rear traction. I'm tempted to guess at it being related to the bump stop issue because it looks like it only occurs on power with the rear suspension taking a fair amount of load. I say this because I noticed a couple of times you went through bumpy sections off power and no odd pitching.

I'd like to hear some of the more experienced setup artists' analysis.

laze1

iTrader: (17)

So, I removed the F @ R shocks, and set them up by the Tein factory settings...Guess What...that solved the problems.

BTW: The PO had paid to have these rebuilt by Tein and re-installed and corner balanced by some Pro Shop....well they blew it.

Where the Shock unit screws into the lower mounting unit, was off by about 2"...2" TOO HIGH, the springs seats where off 2" the other direction.
So I had ZERO travel in the rear, and <1" travel in the front. But it was low as CRAP..looked good but drove poorly of a rough race track.

Now I have >2-3" of travel front and rear, with near factory ride higth. I will get it corner balanced and try it out at Road Atlanta in 2 weeks. RA is smooth but with big G-loads...and some BIG Gators to jump

Zazz93

iTrader: (2)

Wow, installment issues... makes you wonder what else they missed around the car.

mw9

iTrader: (51)

great information.

laze1

iTrader: (17)

Never "assume" that a pro shop did the requested work correctly