suspension setting for track time attack...
Anybody can advise on one good setting for an 350z 2003, equiped with tein adjustable, toe & camber adjustable front and back, sway bar front and back. Tyres, TOYO R888, 265/35/18 all around, rims 18x9.5 ET 20, OEM engine, LSD 1.5 way, racing clutch.
Please advise
camber front & back
toe in out? front & back
sway bars front back, stiff or soft?
I have the TEIN's EFDC, how to set it for track use?
Thank you for your answer.
Please advise
camber front & back
toe in out? front & back
sway bars front back, stiff or soft?
I have the TEIN's EFDC, how to set it for track use?
Thank you for your answer.
The Answear is very simple set it they way you like it. Everyone has different comfort and skill levels there are way to many factors involved in what you are asking just go to the track with all your tools and your camber arms marked for different degrees of camber and keep testing on that track till it feels good to you it's that simple
good answer. I would add that the car needs to be happy as well. As you are changing the settings monitor temperatures across the tire. Find the happy medium between your driving style and car setup for the best results.
Posted from a old phone so I am sure there are a lot of screw ups
Posted from a old phone so I am sure there are a lot of screw ups
Agreed with the above mentioned.
I can tell you what I ran when I had R888's on my car, but it was on stock springs and shocks. I probably ran way more camber than you need to because your suspension should be stiffer than stock. There are way too many variables.
One thing that stayed the same for me was toe. I always run 1/16" out-front and 1/16" in-rear. Sometimes 0 in rear.
Good luck!
I can tell you what I ran when I had R888's on my car, but it was on stock springs and shocks. I probably ran way more camber than you need to because your suspension should be stiffer than stock. There are way too many variables.
One thing that stayed the same for me was toe. I always run 1/16" out-front and 1/16" in-rear. Sometimes 0 in rear.
Good luck!
camber front & back -2.4 front and -1.8 rear
toe in out? front & back 0 front , and 1/16 toe in rear
sway bars front back, stiff or soft? Soft
I have the TEIN's EFDC, how to set it for track use? Throw EFDC in trash
Good starting points for you, then work from there.
toe in out? front & back 0 front , and 1/16 toe in rear
sway bars front back, stiff or soft? Soft
I have the TEIN's EFDC, how to set it for track use? Throw EFDC in trash
Good starting points for you, then work from there.
There are no universal settings. I like a bit more of an aggressive alignment than others, but it suits my driving style. You will get ten different answers from ten different racers. Best thing you can do is go out and test test test. Having a pyrometer will greatly aid you in dialing in the alignment. I am not a fan of shocks that dial in compression and rebound with a single adjustment. They tend to have way too much compression....particularly the JDM ones.
The Answear is very simple set it they way you like it. Everyone has different comfort and skill levels there are way to many factors involved in what you are asking just go to the track with all your tools and your camber arms marked for different degrees of camber and keep testing on that track till it feels good to you it's that simple
IMHO, there's too much emphasis on making the driver comfortable. Having worked with a number of professional race drivers, none of them are comfortable when the car is turning its fastest lap times. The driver is there to drive the car as fast as possible no matter what condition the car is in, so its very important to optimize the car first before worrying about the driver.
Last edited by betamotorsports; Jul 5, 2011 at 08:04 AM.
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I would tend to disagree. Make the tires happy (and verify via tire temps, tire wear, and lap times) and then learn how to drive the optimized car.
IMHO, there's too much emphasis on making the driver comfortable. Having worked with a number of professional race drivers, none of them are comfortable when the car is turning its fastest lap times. The driver is there to drive the car as fast as possible no matter what condition the car is in, so its very important to optimize the car first before worrying about the driver.
IMHO, there's too much emphasis on making the driver comfortable. Having worked with a number of professional race drivers, none of them are comfortable when the car is turning its fastest lap times. The driver is there to drive the car as fast as possible no matter what condition the car is in, so its very important to optimize the car first before worrying about the driver.
-posted from an old style phone...expect mistakes.
Yes and no. Confidence and comfortable have more to do with a driver's perception of his/her abilities then of a car and its behavior. Many races have been won by outstanding drivers in evil handling cars. Very few have been won by crappy drivers in outstanding cars. To a degree, dumbing down a car's handling to meet the skill level of the driver is the wrong way to go. Yes, it has to be done often times to keep the car off the wall but that's not the way to win races.
I am not sure if we are arguing semantics or just need to agree to disagree. Eitherway I think we can both say that there is no "perfect" setup that works for every car. Main thing is to test and monitor the tires and better the driver with practice.
I guess, in my long winded, roundabout way, I'm saying to optimize the car first and then tune for the driver. But make damn sure the driver can drive the optimized car at the limit before dumbing things down to make the driver comfortable. If the driver cannot drive the optimized car at the limit, optimize the driver.
In other words, run at least -2.0 camber in the front, -1.0 camber in the rear, 0 toe F, 1/16" toe in R, set your sway bars to medium all around for a base. If you prefer more understeer set your front bars to stiff, if you prefer oversteer set your rear bars to stiff. As for the teins, go to the medium setting and run a bit stiffer in the front than the rear.
With that said, you will find tire pressure a huge player in how your car performs so make sure to keep an eye on that. With those settings you should have a good starting point and work your way up to a more advanced setup.
With that said, you will find tire pressure a huge player in how your car performs so make sure to keep an eye on that. With those settings you should have a good starting point and work your way up to a more advanced setup.
Honestly, that seems like a lot of car for someone asking this question. Beta makes some great points but I don't know if the OP's skill level is there. For the sake of keeping the tires on the asphalt and out of the grass or walls, run it with the settings your used-to on the street (if you DD the car). Crank in plenty of rebound, 75% of max would be my start suggestion (this is a comfort thing, but at some point too stiff will slow you down by keeping the tire off the ground) and use a fairly soft sway bar setting F&R for saftey. Adjust only one thing at a time, to give you a lesson in what the adjustment does.
For a person that's got less then 2 years running on a race track, spending money to make the car faster is a waste. Spend money making the car reliable and safe and then use all available money after that on driver training. Only when you can drive your car at the car's limit for a complete session, turning lap times within a couple 10ths every time, is it time to start making the car faster.
I'm as guilty as anyone of spending money on the car when it is better spent on me. Its shows big time when my pro race buddies turn laps seconds faster then me in my own car - with me in the passenger seat going, "Damn!"
I'm as guilty as anyone of spending money on the car when it is better spent on me. Its shows big time when my pro race buddies turn laps seconds faster then me in my own car - with me in the passenger seat going, "Damn!"
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