Agreed, its just that I see a lot of people setting their sways to full stiff, it was meant as more of a suggestion than a fix for wheel hop.

 

Gotcha, and I agree with that as well.

Too many people associated full stiff with fast. I understand the disconnect in that line of thinking, but there is just so much more that goes into a properly setup car.

 

with a perfect surface and ideal conditions and IF we were all excellent drivers, all stiff is ok, but I like mine a bit on the soft side, I can put my Z almost anywhere on or near on the track and not worry about upsetting the car. just my 0.02.

You know what's funny, NASCAR with tomes and tomes of data and telemetry with EXPERTS on shocks, springs, alignments, and who knows maybe even a goodyear guy in their pits, they sometimes struggle with suspension setups, and they are only turning left... For us DIYers the learning curve is tough and there is a lot of information and misinformation out there on the subject.

I tend to give advice sparingly on the subject because I'm not sure if mine is as fast as it could be, but I am ok with it, it does what I want her to do, most of the time. Several good books on the subject matter...

 

In my mind... There is ALWAYS a better set-up.

 

Yep, and everyones idea of a perfect setup is different. While there are certain rules that should be followed, everyone's free to tweak their car to their taste. Some people might think that Lightnings car is too soft, for example.

 

Just for referance, i run basically the same spring rates as the OP. The lower pick up points are run level for ride height, front bump steer altered, rear hotchkiss sway full soft , front staggered hole 2 and hole 3 , with my dampers turned all the way soft. That is with 275's front and rear.

Im thinking his car is trying to lift the inside tire and loses traction (especially without a proper dif) or he runs out of uptravel in the corner and a slight bounce will make him lose traction.

 

In most cases skating (skipping/hopping) in a corner is caused by:

1. Riding on the bump stops (infinite spring rate).
2. Too soft compression damping (car falls over onto the bump stops).
3. Too much compression damping (car won't react to bumps).
4. Too little rebound damping (sprung weight oscillates).
5. Too low tire pressures (tire rolls, loses grip, regains grip).
6. Too high tire pressure (no tire compliance over bumps).
7. Too high a spring rate (no compliance)..
8. Sway bar or suspension bind.
9. Driver steering error (throwing the car into the corner).
10. Driver throttle error (on/off throttle in a corner).
11. Equal suspension frequencies front and back (car pogos).

 

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and no, i still have the stock diff

 

No need to go any further. Your car is too low. Raise it up at least 2" if you want it to handle.

 

Agree...way too low.

 

Wow.

 

I like the look. But then took it out to the autox track. And that's where I encountered my problem

 

to quote Paul Harvey, you now know the rest of the story.

 

NOt that I have anything right, but rolling on 30 series R comps, I'm ~26" from center of fender to the ground, my rear half shafts are level to the ground.



Another way to tell if you are too low or other suspension ailment, is to put a zip tie around your damper shaft. Go do a session, and then see how high the zip went.

please disregard the Momentum Performance stickers, I no longer work with them. Just haven't had time to take more pictures and I'm a long way from home.

 

I am at 25.9" to the center of the front fender (can't remember the rear off the top of my head) on 285/30 A6's as well.

 

I'm currently at 25.875 front and 26.500 in the rear.

 

I'm not as low as you think n fronts are 24 and 7/8ths. From ground to center of fender

 

But your rear looks to be an inch+ lower than the front. And the rear, ideally, should be raked somewhere around .625-1.125 higher than the front (stock is roughly 1 inch). In my eyes, your rear is a good 1.75-2.25 inches lower than ideal. My car looks like your car only at heavy load in steady state cornering.

Another thought is how do you adjust your coils for ride height? Aside from being rather low, if you adjust the shock's ride height incorrect you're only compounding the issue. You ideally should adjust to shocks overall height (threaded cups on the end) and then adjust the preload accordingly (the spring perches) if needed. If you adjust the perches more than the shock body you will get to a point where you are losing travel before your suspension goes to work.

If you like the sagging rear look, hey more power to ya... but when you plan to put it on the track do US a favor and get it back to a normal height, its a pain avoiding cars that don't handle well. Might take you 2 hours of prep and you'll enjoy the car more. Then you can put it back the way it was after.

 

I'd raise it ~1" in the front and ~1.25-1.50" in the rear.

 

I need to raise the rear up for sure. I adjust them from the bottom, like you said. Just haven't gotta around to adjusting it. I sold my camber kits. So I'm stock right now. Im looking for spl parts to put on this winter. Just gonna tackle all the susepsion this winter