Right now in the back I can’t get less than –2.5* of camber and less than
.24” of toe-in per side.

The Eibach/SPC kit seems to be the obvious and cost effective choice but I primarily use my car for autocross and track days and am concerned with slippage.

SPL would be great I’m sure but the they are too expensive.

What are you guys using? Any suggestions?

 

Btw, I'm not running true coilovers. I still have the separate springs.

 

I am at -2.3 and .04 in on each side with stock arms and spc toe bolts.

 

Think I'm -1.5 using Kinetix arms and spc toe/camber kit.

 

If you're doing any kind of track action the only one I'd recommend would be SPL

 

yeah i cant attest to the strength of my ebay wonder lower camber links for autox.

I use ebay 129 dollar lower links, and a set of toe delete bolts.. and i believe im at -1.5 camber and im unsure about the toe, i use non true coilovers too.

 

-2.2 rear camber and I believe 1/8 toe, goes back on the rack this week. My bet is that you have the rear end way to low right now.

 

I broke a cheapo rear camber arm in half earlier this season...when it fails (at speed) it bends the other arms with it.

Also note how bent the traction arm is as well...

 

Yea saw that..I will say my links are quite larger dia etc. And only street drive. And there's no rain here..so no pot holes.
I appreciate the warning advice tho....sniff..its how I know you still care inside. hee hee. Jk.

 

Those r the ichibas that broke correct?

 

I would use spl parts.. dont waste money on anything else... Save up and run it. I drive my Z into the dirt and have never had a failure with my SPL arms. On my previous as well as my current setup I run everything they sell for the rear. If you want to pick it up all at once you can get a pretty good deal.

I would suggest for rear SPL midlink (because you still utilize spring and cup) and SPL lockout washers for the Toe bolt, spl traction arms, SPL camber arms, Solid diff bushings.
If you are only lowered on springs im sure your front camber is only out -1~1.5ish so no need to upgrade the camber arms in front but would suggest picking up better tie rods.. after that your golden, plus if/when you do upgrade to Truetype suspension, you wont need to upgrade again. I've seen other brands that dont have the amount of travel needed to compensate for more that 2-3 deg camber or 1/2" toe.. so using these products your sacrificing the integrity of the part by utilizing fewer threads for the load the car will be under.

Do it right the first time, you might not get a second chance when it comes to catastrophic failure.

Terrasmack Why do you run 1/8 TO? I've also used this but mainly for high speed events. Other than that I run 0 toe. Do you feel the 1/8 give you more stable entry/exits? Just curious, I'm trying to get my Z into the track scene again and want to try a few things.

 

What about the new Kinetix kit? It includes the camber and traction arms for around $250. They use Energy Suspension bushings. They say the traction arms can be used to fine tune the toe. http://www.kinetixracing.com/kinetix...n_package.aspx

Would that be a good compromise?

 

Went to a drift clinic this week to give it a try and burn up some old tires and one of my rear SPC camber arms snapped at the weld where the metal goes around the bushing.

I understand that under the stresses of track events, things will break but when looking at them, the welds and the thickness of the metal used around the bushing didn't really seem up to track stress. FYI - they were on my car when I bought it.

Will be looking for some different ones this week....

 

Oh crap, SPL all the way , get yoru car back together for next sat.



TehkMob. most of the tracks i'm on are pretty quick, i also just set it and leave it.

 

Here's how my car sits right now with 265/35-18 tires:


I'm starting to wonder if maybe one of the toe bolts got flipped 180* or something. One side they were able to get close to what I wanted but the other side was WAY off. So to make them match, he had to set the one that was close to what I wanted to match the one that was way off.

 

Yup, lift the car up a bit and remove about 10 degrees of angle out of the wing.

 

Wow...so if the SPC camber arms broke, I suppose the SPL camber arms would be the way to go. Then just get some toe bolts until I decide what I want to do.

Although raising the rear would probably take away some of the negative camber. So maybe all I really need are the toe bolts?

Will the lockout kit work after I have enlongated the subframe for the toe bolts?

 

I see that you autocross....the SPL arms aren't legal until you get into prepared. No metal bushings in ST or SP classes.

 

Good observation and point. Due to the lack of carpet and rear interior pieces that were removed for the roll cage, I'm not eligible for those classes anyway. I run it in XP where it is underprepared.

I also use it for HPDEs and may burn off some tires with it drifting a few times a year.

 

To be fair, the SPC arms went through many track days without an issue. Drifting seems to be pretty abusive to the car and that wasn't the only thing that broke that day.

Do a search I think others have had them break but I am sure many are running them without issue.