Rotors. Cheap vs High End.
05-03-2012, 09:13 AM
#24
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05-03-2012, 09:36 AM
#25
Your brakes are only as good as your tires. BBKs are a waste on 80% of the cars I've seen them on. Even if the tires have enough grip to take advantage of the BBK, the extra weight isn't offset by the stopping power in a lot of cases. Unless you're doing a lot of heavy braking, to the point that you're overheating good stock sized brakes, a BBK is a waste of money. Unless you want it for looks.
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05-04-2012, 10:58 AM
#26
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I have an 04 Touring 6spd, bone stock.
I literally melted the stock pads off the car on my first track day. Then, after ruining an expensive set of rotors by melting some Hawk performance pads, I ended up with Centric blanks from partsgeek.com and Carbontech X12's in front with X10's in back.
I have been very happy with them. 4 track days and only have some discoloration and I still have lots of pad left, even on the postage stamp sized rears. And at $110 bucks for the four rotors, I don't mind getting a new set once or twice a year.
One note with the Carbontech pads, and it comes from a Carbontech rep that spends time on my track. Take the cool down lap seriously and take two laps around the pits. The pads need time to cool before park, otherwise you could warp your rotors.
I literally melted the stock pads off the car on my first track day. Then, after ruining an expensive set of rotors by melting some Hawk performance pads, I ended up with Centric blanks from partsgeek.com and Carbontech X12's in front with X10's in back.
I have been very happy with them. 4 track days and only have some discoloration and I still have lots of pad left, even on the postage stamp sized rears. And at $110 bucks for the four rotors, I don't mind getting a new set once or twice a year.
One note with the Carbontech pads, and it comes from a Carbontech rep that spends time on my track. Take the cool down lap seriously and take two laps around the pits. The pads need time to cool before park, otherwise you could warp your rotors.
05-04-2012, 11:27 AM
#27
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Thread Starter
I've got a new set of Carbotech xp10s for the front and xp8s for the rear. Will order the Centric blanks today.
Want stainless brake lines but that will have to wait.
What sort of tires are you running? I'm getting ready to order new rims for the track and a set of track tires, not R compound, but a decent high performance summer. I'm just in DE-2.
Next track day is June 2. Can't wait.
Want stainless brake lines but that will have to wait.
What sort of tires are you running? I'm getting ready to order new rims for the track and a set of track tires, not R compound, but a decent high performance summer. I'm just in DE-2.
Next track day is June 2. Can't wait.
05-04-2012, 12:01 PM
#29
Here is a little trick I learned from Corvette Z06 guys who crack rotors every event it seems:
even after doing a good cool-down lap, and get back to the paddock, every 5 - 10 mins for up to 30-45 mins , push the car forward or backwards about 1/2 of a tire revolution to equalize rotor cool down across the entire rotor.
Why? The area under the pad cools slower than the remainder of the rotor that is exposed to the ambient air temps ...thus causing the rotor to crack.
This also prevents pad build up on the rotor that many people mistake for a "warped rotor"....think of the screaming hot pad "melting" to the rotor in the single spot it touches when sitting still in the pits for 2 hours after a 45 minute Bonzi run in mid-summer...
So now everybody owes me 13 beers each time I see you at the track..as this is top secret skunk-works info that is not shared with normal people
even after doing a good cool-down lap, and get back to the paddock, every 5 - 10 mins for up to 30-45 mins , push the car forward or backwards about 1/2 of a tire revolution to equalize rotor cool down across the entire rotor.
Why? The area under the pad cools slower than the remainder of the rotor that is exposed to the ambient air temps ...thus causing the rotor to crack.
This also prevents pad build up on the rotor that many people mistake for a "warped rotor"....think of the screaming hot pad "melting" to the rotor in the single spot it touches when sitting still in the pits for 2 hours after a 45 minute Bonzi run in mid-summer...
So now everybody owes me 13 beers each time I see you at the track..as this is top secret skunk-works info that is not shared with normal people
I have an 04 Touring 6spd, bone stock.
I literally melted the stock pads off the car on my first track day. Then, after ruining an expensive set of rotors by melting some Hawk performance pads, I ended up with Centric blanks from partsgeek.com and Carbontech X12's in front with X10's in back.
I have been very happy with them. 4 track days and only have some discoloration and I still have lots of pad left, even on the postage stamp sized rears. And at $110 bucks for the four rotors, I don't mind getting a new set once or twice a year.
One note with the Carbontech pads, and it comes from a Carbontech rep that spends time on my track. Take the cool down lap seriously and take two laps around the pits. The pads need time to cool before park, otherwise you could warp your rotors.
I literally melted the stock pads off the car on my first track day. Then, after ruining an expensive set of rotors by melting some Hawk performance pads, I ended up with Centric blanks from partsgeek.com and Carbontech X12's in front with X10's in back.
I have been very happy with them. 4 track days and only have some discoloration and I still have lots of pad left, even on the postage stamp sized rears. And at $110 bucks for the four rotors, I don't mind getting a new set once or twice a year.
One note with the Carbontech pads, and it comes from a Carbontech rep that spends time on my track. Take the cool down lap seriously and take two laps around the pits. The pads need time to cool before park, otherwise you could warp your rotors.
05-04-2012, 02:44 PM
#30
Here is a little trick I learned from Corvette Z06 guys who crack rotors every event it seems:
even after doing a good cool-down lap, and get back to the paddock, every 5 - 10 mins for up to 30-45 mins , push the car forward or backwards about 1/2 of a tire revolution to equalize rotor cool down across the entire rotor.
Why? The area under the pad cools slower than the remainder of the rotor that is exposed to the ambient air temps ...thus causing the rotor to crack.
This also prevents pad build up on the rotor that many people mistake for a "warped rotor"....think of the screaming hot pad "melting" to the rotor in the single spot it touches when sitting still in the pits for 2 hours after a 45 minute Bonzi run in mid-summer...
So now everybody owes me 13 beers each time I see you at the track..as this is top secret skunk-works info that is not shared with normal people
even after doing a good cool-down lap, and get back to the paddock, every 5 - 10 mins for up to 30-45 mins , push the car forward or backwards about 1/2 of a tire revolution to equalize rotor cool down across the entire rotor.
Why? The area under the pad cools slower than the remainder of the rotor that is exposed to the ambient air temps ...thus causing the rotor to crack.
This also prevents pad build up on the rotor that many people mistake for a "warped rotor"....think of the screaming hot pad "melting" to the rotor in the single spot it touches when sitting still in the pits for 2 hours after a 45 minute Bonzi run in mid-summer...
So now everybody owes me 13 beers each time I see you at the track..as this is top secret skunk-works info that is not shared with normal people
05-04-2012, 02:50 PM
#31
Haha,,,now you understand why Z06 owners stand around their cars after a track run, maybe just leaning on the fenders or rear deck....and giving the car a little bump from time to time...
They are trying to prevent "premature crackage"
They are trying to prevent "premature crackage"
Last edited by laze1; 05-04-2012 at 04:31 PM.
05-07-2012, 10:54 PM
#35
I track my Z and I've been using Stoptech slotted rotors on wide street tires, high performance brake pads and they never cracked. I'm a fan.
And yes, VividRacing sells them at a good price. I got my AeroRotors from them
And yes, VividRacing sells them at a good price. I got my AeroRotors from them
Last edited by 350Zdj; 05-07-2012 at 10:57 PM.
05-08-2012, 02:00 AM
#36
This is what I run today in W2W racing: Power Alloy Discs
CENTRIC Part # 12542079 Brembo Brakes; Rear $56.79
CENTRIC Part # 12542076 Brembo Brakes; Front $64.79
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2043662
And I have used these successfully as well: Premium Rotor
CENTRIC Part # 12042079 Brembo Brakes; Rear $54.89
CENTRIC Part # 12042076 Brembo Brakes; Front $62.79
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1279470
__________________
CENTRIC Part # 12542079 Brembo Brakes; Rear $56.79
CENTRIC Part # 12542076 Brembo Brakes; Front $64.79
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2043662
And I have used these successfully as well: Premium Rotor
CENTRIC Part # 12042079 Brembo Brakes; Rear $54.89
CENTRIC Part # 12042076 Brembo Brakes; Front $62.79
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1279470
__________________
Last edited by laze1; 05-08-2012 at 02:18 AM.
05-08-2012, 04:51 AM
#37
New Member
Thread Starter
I ordered the Centric Premiums. I have no idea what makes them more 'premium' than the economy ones. Probably the price.
But, as above, Laze1 has had good luck with them so that's what I'm going to try. Will be using them with Carbotech pads (10/8) at the track June 2 and 3rd.
But, as above, Laze1 has had good luck with them so that's what I'm going to try. Will be using them with Carbotech pads (10/8) at the track June 2 and 3rd.
05-09-2012, 05:10 PM
#40
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Here is a little trick I learned from Corvette Z06 guys who crack rotors every event it seems:
even after doing a good cool-down lap, and get back to the paddock, every 5 - 10 mins for up to 30-45 mins , push the car forward or backwards about 1/2 of a tire revolution to equalize rotor cool down across the entire rotor.
Why? The area under the pad cools slower than the remainder of the rotor that is exposed to the ambient air temps ...thus causing the rotor to crack.
This also prevents pad build up on the rotor that many people mistake for a "warped rotor"....think of the screaming hot pad "melting" to the rotor in the single spot it touches when sitting still in the pits for 2 hours after a 45 minute Bonzi run in mid-summer...
So now everybody owes me 13 beers each time I see you at the track..as this is top secret skunk-works info that is not shared with normal people
even after doing a good cool-down lap, and get back to the paddock, every 5 - 10 mins for up to 30-45 mins , push the car forward or backwards about 1/2 of a tire revolution to equalize rotor cool down across the entire rotor.
Why? The area under the pad cools slower than the remainder of the rotor that is exposed to the ambient air temps ...thus causing the rotor to crack.
This also prevents pad build up on the rotor that many people mistake for a "warped rotor"....think of the screaming hot pad "melting" to the rotor in the single spot it touches when sitting still in the pits for 2 hours after a 45 minute Bonzi run in mid-summer...
So now everybody owes me 13 beers each time I see you at the track..as this is top secret skunk-works info that is not shared with normal people
You don't have to. But if you just park it hot:
