Bawhahahahahahah

 

LOL , and very interested in gettimng rid of my ABS too. I'm really looking into the Wilwood pedal kit with dual masters.

 

Totally understand what you said. However, this is not the first time it happened. Bus Stop, Lost Hill and sunset, 4 times total at different days. I am also very sure that the downshift was done before I started to turn.

I am gonna piece everything together for the ABS delete and see.

 

 

Wohooo. In for more pics!

 

This is in the planning stage for me, in the planning stage, few emails now getting input from Todd at TCE Brakes. I also want to chat with him about just getting rid of the ABS unit and adding a proportioning valve, replacing the master and keeping the OEM booster and of course changing the pedal assembly to a dual master system.

First is the surge tank, should actually start work on it next week.

 

Some ppl keep telling me to get rid of the brake booster for more brake control. And replace the MC with a 7/8 size piston. I am seriously thinking about it. I will be at SEMA this weekend and checking out some brake products at the same time.

 

If you're going to go in that direction with the brakes (track only) then you will be much better off using a dual MC brake and setup a balance bar. Something like the part pictured below that I make for S30 Datsuns and E30 BMWs.

 

I am on my 3rd ABS control module.

If, at some point, I can't get cheap junk yard replacements, I too will have to consider removing ABS altogether.

 

I just simply connect the lines with T- fitting plus a proportioning valve. Brake feels great and no leak. Will test and adjust and see how it goes.

 

any problems yesterday?

 

any updates?

 

I have done 2 track days after the ABS Delete.
One day with Rain and other day was dry!


Brake works very well with manual brake control. Had to play with the bias for serveral sessions. No leak and pedal is firm so far.

 

how do your lap times compare?

 

Faster by a sec. I didnt have to brake early to avoid ABS activation and most important thing - my full set of tires last throught both track days!!

But by watching my videos, it seems like I can still brake deeper and later. I think it will take me a while to learn the new braking threshold.

 

As my car gets more extreme I've been going through the pros/cons of abs.

Here's an interesting thread from the porsche guys about abs (particularly post #65 from a Bosch engineer):

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...-issues-5.html

Given the expense of a Bosch M4 system I'm leaning toward no ABS:

http://www.bosch-motorsport.de/conte...rochure_en.pdf

By the way pchio, when you plumbed your abs did you switch it from left/right to front/rear for each circuit in order to adjust rear bias?:

 

This weekend i had a slight ABS issue in the first session. Slightly flatted the rt front tire, just a hair and its still a good tire. My car only has the fronts locking up when ABS goes south.

 

Nice, looks like a simple solution. Can you share the correct T fitting you used?
thanks

 

Yes, Circuit are separated from front and rear now.

 

Do it at your own risk, I wont be responsible for anything happen to this brake modification. Not for street use at all.

These got me a few days, planning, researching to gather all the parts. Metric fittings are very difficult to find!

From Master Cylinder:
(2) 12mmx1 Metric to -3an Adapter Male
(2) -3an Teflon hoses 10" and 18"

Front Brake Circuit:
(1) -3an male to 10mmx1 male adapter
(1) 3 way Tee 10mx1 Bubble flares adapter

Rear Brake Circuit:
(1) Wilwood Brake proportioning valve 1/8NPT fitting
(1) Wilwood remote brake bias adjusting cable
(2) -3an male to 1/8" NPT adapter
(1) -3an Teflon hose 6"
(1) 3 way Tee 10mx1 Bubble flares adapter

Tool:
Eastwood Company Brake Line Forming Tool

A few custom brackets to hold everything in place.