If you are running dual masters it's highly advisable that you do not run an adjustable bias bar AND the proportioning valve. You really have all you need in the twin cylinders and cable actuated bias adjuster. Adding the prop valve to the mix is redundant. Because it's function is based upon line pressure the rear brake bias will be questionable rather than what you need/want it to be from the pedal, making tuning a real chore. Unless you have pressure gauges and maybe data to record it you're relying on the 'feel' of the pedal to do some adjustment. In fact do it in two places. Not an ideal set up.

 

Thats right. I did not upgrade to dual master cylinders. I am still using the stock MC at this time.

 

Dammit, I have the same problem now.

I was at an Highspeed AutoX event and the damn ABS decided to lock up the wheels during a high speed turn, causing the car to dive straight into a bunch of cars queueing up for their runs. I wastn't even shifting or anything.

Thank God I stopped the car but at the expense of flat spotting the tires.

Is this fixable? Is it possible to find the problem through the scanner?

 

Anyone know how the wheel speed sensors work? The signal the put out? I was talking to TCE the other day about altering the signal so ABS would properly function with a square tire setup.

 

^you mean square setup confuses the ABS sensors occasionally? coz I have a full square setup as well, both wheels and tires

 

Another 2 track days done. 1 in heavy rain and 1 in a perfect dry day. No issue, no lock up. Brake works as what they supposed to do. Adjust brake bias is a plus!

 

Any way we could get a step by step on this pchio it looks kind of crazy I can rebuild a motor in no time but hesitate to even touch my brakes when it comes to much more than bleeding them or changing pads

 

I found the proportioning valve and bias adj cable on summit racing
Proportioning valve part number 260-8419 it's about 42.00
Bias adjusting cable part number 340-4990 it's about 48.00

 

This I like!

I would like to see your foot work without it!

If faster by a second is for real you must be setting up like a boss!
Edit:
In the sense your more mindful of the braking and must be carrying speed a whole lot better!


In for more!

 

Bump

 

I called Wilwood today and the salesman said that you couldn't hook up a remote adjustment cable to the proportioning valve (part 260-8419).. Is he mistaken? I mean I suppose I could leave it in the engine bay - just will be a task to get it set right.

 

I have that same proportioning valve and a the adjustment cable connected to it..

the only way is to cut the hard plastic nub on the proportioning valve and screw the adjustment cable into it, they share the same thread pattern.

 

I'm mostly complete with my ABS removal project. Thanks a lot for this write-up.

Did the ABS removal take away your speedometer? Not surprising- I have ABS, SLIP, TCS, and BRAKE lights on.. but the one surprise was no speedometer. The tach works, thankfully.

Also, I notice some mush in the brake pedal before the braking catches. I did a lot of bleeding.. just curious if that is an effect of removing the abs brake electronic distribution (ebd) or if I just sill have air in there.

Thanks again.

 

Replug the abs module (electrical plug) to get speedo working.

Could be air. Did you swap pads too?

 

I should have mentioned - I drained the brake system completely and rebuilt all 4 calipers in this process.

It will be difficult to plug the ABS module back in.. I'm using the bracket as a base for other aluminum brackets holding the t-connectors and proportioning valve.. but if that is what I have to do then I'll need to re-think and re-plumb things to get it right I suppose.

Maybe I can take the ABS apart and just have the black portion that it plugs into mounted in there to save some space.

Thanks

 

Yes. You can remove the aluminum block attached the black plastic. I had a machine shop cut the block in half so i could use the lower half for mounting purposes as oem did.

 

Were you able to get your ABS system sorted out? Primarily get the speedo to work again with the abs module removed or modified? I'm at this stage and really want to get my speedo working again There has to be a way to trick the system into thinking it's still there without plugging it back in
I'm running a standalone Ecm with an LS swap so at this point just trying to get my speedo working again I have proportioning valve installed with a abs delete plate FYI
Any advise would be greatly appreciated
Thanks in advance

 

It needs to be plugged in. CAN bus communicates through there. You can simply unbolt the heavy alum part of the ABS block.

 

For archival purposes
https://my350z.com/forum/autocross-r...roject-11.html
See post 203

 

I think what your saying is unbolt the brain off the abs module and plug it back into the harness that I will try next to see if that will get speedo back online After I'm done I plan to do a write up with photos I have also teed in the pressure switch for the brake light Should know something tomorrow after work
Thanks for the help
Hear is a picture of what I think your answer was