I recently went out to Eagles Canyon Raceway at Decatur, TX for some track time but ran into some issues with my brakes so I was hoping I'd ask the more experienced guys for some advice and/or recommendation.

About halfway into my 3rd session (20-25 min each) of the day, I overheated all 4 corners and caused all the rotors and pads to glaze up and have uneven deposits. Additionally, my OEM Brembo calipers, which were already orange from previous track days, got baked and discolored to a brownish color. See attachments.

My brake set up is as follows:
-OEM Brembos
-ATE Super Blue
-SS lines
-HP Plus
-cheap blank rotors

I've been running the above set up for about 2+ years and never had any issues. I feel like I pushed the car harder this last time than I have on my previous track days, though. Not sure if this matters, but most of my track experience were on other tracks that didn't have quite as many big elevation changes as ECR does. And I wasn't riding on the brakes, although I might have been trail braking more than I should have.

Basically, what I'm asking is..
Do I need to pretty much replace/upgrade everything, or did I do something wrong at the track?

 

Not hard to overheat HP+'s....you need to run a more dedicated pad.

 

^ Figured as much. (Just updated the OP, too)

The instructors I spoke to at the track told me to "get real pads," lol. I was thinking Carbotech XP10/8 and they recommended DTC-60s(?). I haven't tried either, so any input on them would be appreciated.

I use my car mostly for autox with several track days sprinkled in throughout the year. I also prefer to keep 1 set of pads to use on the track, at autox, and on the streets.



Any recommendations for rotors?

I don't want 2 piece rotors and I want something I can get for cheap and replace for cheap.. so Centric blanks? I was actually using AutoZone blanks for the fronts () after I cracked my DBAs and the rears were Centric.

 

Keep running blanks. Go up in pad....anything more than XP10's is going to be noisy. Try those, if you overheat them, just swap to 12's on site. Outside of CT, look at Raybestos st43 or 45's. They last a long time. I am not fond of hawk pads...in any capacity. You can cut holes for brake ducts in some Solo classes, but you need to consult the rulebook. If you aren't going to run national events, I would worry about...unless you have some ahole that takes regional stuff too seriously.

 

To be fair... the calipers look pretty cool in that color.

 

^ You're not the only one who said that. I'll trade you my cool "bronzed" Brembos for OEM gold ones..


Mike, why don't you like the Hawks? And I can deal with noise, but I'd rather not have too aggressive of a compound for autox, though.

 

I just don't like the feel of hawks, can't really put it into words other than that. I have some DTC60's and 70's for ST40's that are collecting dust.

 

brembo that get tracked turn that color, thats why people call them brownbos :P

if you wanna stick with hawk - DTC60 or 70

id suggest raybestos ST47 front 45 rear though. or even 45 F/R or even 45 Front 43 Rear.

 

Does the brand of the blank rotors really matter? I realize that the vanes play a crucial role but not sure if I want to buy expensive rotors again only to replace them a few months later, which is what I'm starting to do now.

I have no personal experience with either Carbotechs or Raybestos. I'd like to try one of the two, but honestly not sure which one from just the generic descriptions on different websites. What do you guys think would be more suitable for my needs (1 set of pads to both autox and track then drive home; don't care about dust/squeal)?

 

I have been running the carobotech Xp10/8 combo for a couple years and they work great with sticky street tire or r compounds such as nt-01 but you would probably want to go to 12/10 if you are using Hoosier or an equivalent tire. I have even run them on the street for a couple weeks when I am to lazy to change them between events and they work great there as well just tend to squeak if you don't brake aggressively. Hope this helps and best of luck to you.

 

I'm actually still racing on street tires (Hankook R-S3s) and don't plan to get R-comps for at least another season. I also don't mind squealing or dust, as my HP Plus pads consistently do that already.

 

Rotors dont matter, most people just use centric blanks lol. Neither ST or XP would work for autox, why dont you just get aggressive track pads for track and use OEM pads for autox?

 

^ I didn't think they mattered all that much. Hell, I was racing on the $50 AutoZone ones as stupid as that might have been. I've had good luck with Centrics on multiple cars, though.

I just want to stick with a pad that can do it all and not have to deal with changing anything. I guess having a 2 sets of pads wouldn't hurt, but I'm just a lazy **** who doesn't have too much time to begin with.

 

Cant help you on that because I just research pads that need a little heat and autox is like a 20-25 second run normally.

 

I've seen Brembos toasted black running at the track.

 

^ That's just burnt/charred, lol.

I think I'm pretty much settled on XP or ST for track pads..

What do you guys use for autox that requires little to no heat? I really liked how the HP Plus felt in terms of initial grip, modulation, and fade resistance (lol) for autox so I was actually on my 3rd set.

 

For autocross I use pads with almost no initial bite. Lots of initial bite causes me to scrub too much speed off. Honestly, I would just run a separate DD/autocross pad then switch at the track. It takes almost no time to swap them.

 

I use Carbotech 1521 for the street/autocross and XP12/10 for road course track duty.

Depending on your driving habits, you could use the 1521 as the only pad. Though, as easy as it is to swap pads on the brembos, I didn't mind owning two sets of pads.

 

It looks like I'm just a lazy-***...

 

buy an impact gun and you can get all the pads in and out, wheels off and back on in less then 10 minutes lol.