Race seat vs airbag.
#21
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Cape Coral,Fl
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After looking things over ( I have an 03) there does not seem to be a sensor, I think that when the passenger buckles in it lets the front airbag know to go off when needed.
#23
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Thread Starter
I'm not sure the extender would work for me. If I bolt the stock seat belt latch to the Sparco and then plug the extender into it then it would come half way across my lap and then the shoulder harness would not be in the right place.
Or do you mean that you just bolt the extender to the race seat through the hole in the male latch pin?????
Or do you mean that you just bolt the extender to the race seat through the hole in the male latch pin?????
#24
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It does not make sense to me that the manufacturer would cause the entire SRS system to fail if one small element, like a seat airbag, was disabled or malfunctioning. This would put the driver and passenger at risk with no other airbags functioning. But that's just me guessing.
Would love to see a link on where to get a resistor and how to hook it up.
I think the OEM belts work fine with this seat. I ran the belt through the side hole on the left but buckle it over the seat edge on the right. My pelvis sits just above the seat edge so the belt is very snug on the left and still in full contact (but not as snug) on the right. The shoulder belt tensions and catches normally.
Would love to see a link on where to get a resistor and how to hook it up.
I think the OEM belts work fine with this seat. I ran the belt through the side hole on the left but buckle it over the seat edge on the right. My pelvis sits just above the seat edge so the belt is very snug on the left and still in full contact (but not as snug) on the right. The shoulder belt tensions and catches normally.
http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/72971-h...rmarket-seats/
#25
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I'm not sure the extender would work for me. If I bolt the stock seat belt latch to the Sparco and then plug the extender into it then it would come half way across my lap and then the shoulder harness would not be in the right place.
Or do you mean that you just bolt the extender to the race seat through the hole in the male latch pin?????
Or do you mean that you just bolt the extender to the race seat through the hole in the male latch pin?????
#26
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Thread Starter
Right now the stock receiver is bolted to an 'L' bracket that comes welded to the Sparco seat base. This makes it a little too high to fit through the lap belt hole in the side of the seat and too high to run the lapbelt through the hole too. Plus, the 'shaft' of the OEM receiver is rigid and will not flex.
However, it appears that a number of other late model Nissan belts will fit the 350Z (Titan, Murano, Maxima, Xterra and others). The rear receiver in these is webbed and can be had for about $25 on ebay. I'm going to try that route.
I'll take pics and post if this works.
However, it appears that a number of other late model Nissan belts will fit the 350Z (Titan, Murano, Maxima, Xterra and others). The rear receiver in these is webbed and can be had for about $25 on ebay. I'm going to try that route.
I'll take pics and post if this works.
#28
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Also Dman, that would also be great if we can tightly roll up and tie the weight sensors of pass. seats and just keep it plugged in.
Last edited by BigBlue; 04-18-2014 at 12:23 PM.
#29
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Got these 2.2 Ohm resistors today in mail; came in pk. of 25, cost $2.18 is all, took 4 days from order time. I'll probably remove dr. seat within a few days, do the resistor setup just on that seat to test since I have a few weeks before I get the seats. I'll post up any good or bad results.
Last edited by BigBlue; 04-18-2014 at 12:25 PM.
#36
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It worked (so far)! I just got through installing the resistor setup on dr. side; seat is back in. Easy process removing seat, but I lied on my side with flash light, seat tilted. I just used box cutter to cut 2 plastic ties that hold harness to bottom of seat; had never removed a car seat before, but I had it out of car in about 15 min. Installed resistor to the yellow plug 2 wires in about 5 min. and re-installed my seat in 5 min.
I totally spaced out at first; was going to disconnect power, but didn't! So, as I was going to start car to see if airbag light would stay on I had fingers crossed. Started it up, light was on for about 5 sec. then turned off. Maybe ecu had to recognize it, adjust, etc. Hopefully it will stay off; will do pass. side once new seats get here and that side will be tougher dealing with weight sensor.
Here are a couple of pics and some tips: The wires to yellow plug look to be about 22 gauge, the wire that I soldered to resistor is 18 ga.; I wouldn't use any wire larger than 18 ga. (like 16, etc.); may even use 22 ga. Pry the "splice lock connector" open on side and just slide it onto the harness wire, insert the wire from resistor hold steady and using pliers (I used channel locks for good angle) squeeze silver thing in middle down flush onto both wires, fold the plastic clip part around and it snaps together, repeat with other wire. *my splice connectors were for 18-16 ga.; worked fine, but you may want one size smaller. Also, don't worry about having 2 different color of wires; one is fine; power goes either one way or another so don't need like red and black. *Oh yeah, DON'T strip insullation from end of wires that slide into the connectors, the little silver crimp thing cuts through insul. and contacts wires.
*Then when done, I did a couple of wraps of elec. tape to hold all plugs/resistor setup together. Then at bottom of harness I started pushing the harness back into the hole that it came from! Got it all back into the hole, vacumed area and nice and neat.
blurry pic, (don't know why it sucks) but shows 18 ga. wire twisted together with 2.0 Ohm resistor both sides, soldered:
whole setup, pre-solder; I used a 2" or so piece of small tubing used for my yard drip system, to protect resistor wires from bending too much/breaking; slid tube over resistor area and taped; shrink wrap would work fine. See the silver things on clips that crimp down to flush; cuts into + connects both wires. Shows the connectors:
yellow airbag plug:
Back in it's hole!
I totally spaced out at first; was going to disconnect power, but didn't! So, as I was going to start car to see if airbag light would stay on I had fingers crossed. Started it up, light was on for about 5 sec. then turned off. Maybe ecu had to recognize it, adjust, etc. Hopefully it will stay off; will do pass. side once new seats get here and that side will be tougher dealing with weight sensor.
Here are a couple of pics and some tips: The wires to yellow plug look to be about 22 gauge, the wire that I soldered to resistor is 18 ga.; I wouldn't use any wire larger than 18 ga. (like 16, etc.); may even use 22 ga. Pry the "splice lock connector" open on side and just slide it onto the harness wire, insert the wire from resistor hold steady and using pliers (I used channel locks for good angle) squeeze silver thing in middle down flush onto both wires, fold the plastic clip part around and it snaps together, repeat with other wire. *my splice connectors were for 18-16 ga.; worked fine, but you may want one size smaller. Also, don't worry about having 2 different color of wires; one is fine; power goes either one way or another so don't need like red and black. *Oh yeah, DON'T strip insullation from end of wires that slide into the connectors, the little silver crimp thing cuts through insul. and contacts wires.
*Then when done, I did a couple of wraps of elec. tape to hold all plugs/resistor setup together. Then at bottom of harness I started pushing the harness back into the hole that it came from! Got it all back into the hole, vacumed area and nice and neat.
blurry pic, (don't know why it sucks) but shows 18 ga. wire twisted together with 2.0 Ohm resistor both sides, soldered:
whole setup, pre-solder; I used a 2" or so piece of small tubing used for my yard drip system, to protect resistor wires from bending too much/breaking; slid tube over resistor area and taped; shrink wrap would work fine. See the silver things on clips that crimp down to flush; cuts into + connects both wires. Shows the connectors:
yellow airbag plug:
Back in it's hole!
Last edited by BigBlue; 04-21-2014 at 12:14 PM.