Had the guys at a local shop (MadMotorsports) remove some weight out of the car. The results are beautiful. No A/C, muffler/mid-pipe delete, and a bunch of metal/material gone. Car weighs 2725lbs (w/ lightweight wheels), TTC comp. weight is 2940, close to 600lbs lighter than when I got it in October of 2003. Ran a personal best at Sebring of 2:29.7, I think 27s are possible in cooler weather, will see what is possible in October.

 

I'm impressed, but would never do that to my z.
I once took about 400lbs off a 2500lb kia spectra and that dropped about 2 seconds off quarter mile. Though I went ahead and removed all door bracings, front/rear bumper bracings and a bunch of stuff that probably should never have been removed

 

where do you think you had the most weight savings?

 

Definitely check this thread out: https://my350z.com/forum/exterior-an...-pictures.html

Can't say exactly but I removed weight in stages:

I started w/ the simple stuff, removed spare/jack/tools, etc from trunk, gut trunk, lightweight battery, and removed passenger seat. You'll get a lot of weight out and car won't really look "gutted". Also empty windshield washer fluid.

If I could afford it I'd get lightweight headers, cats, and exhaust, I think you can save 70-80lbs w/ lightweight versions of that stuff and a titanium exhaust. I just had the mid-pipe/muffler deleted in favor of a custom single straight pipe.

Then the doors.....the glass, speakers, window motors, and door shields are heavy. Also, at this point you might as well remove all the interior from the "cubby" back.

Finally had a shop remove the A/C, sound deadening, bumper reinforcements, and cut out the cubby altogether.

Probably not new info but that is my experience. Car is actually lighter than I expected and there is still some left to do. Some weight will be added when I get the car fully caged though.

 

great progress and very nice pictures - I've stripped approximately 80% of my interior and unfortunately you'll make the most progress removing weight from the back end so it'd be wise to weigh your front and rear separately and do your best to re-balance to the OEM 53:47 weight balance. I've tracked my progress on the 350z tech site

 

^ It'd be nice if you could cross post your progress here for reference.

 

I would cut that lower horizontal bar off the rear down tubes and weld in a diagonal or smaller tubing X there.

 

This is a track only car, will be fully caged soon, will be removing more and going to put ballast where it will help!

 

Will be getting it fully caged soon so I have a chance to do it, but would it be for weight savings or safety or rigidity?

Thinking of also removing the upper "horizontal brace" that comes stock on the car, seen a lot of people cut it out and weld a bar there instead.

 

were all smart people -
dub dub dub dot 350z DASH tech.com/forums/173-nissan-350z/69348-official-3point5-weight-reduction-thread-ongoing.html

 

That's some pretty impressive weight savings, very spartan interior

Good thing it's a track only car! lol

Nick C.

 

double post - disregard!!

 

Man I've read through that awesome thread (and many other awesome gutted/build threads) over and over, they never get old!

 

Yes track car, absolutely, and I think it's time to go full cage....though I do drive the car to the track still.

Would also like to go w/ fiberglass doors, remove headlights, lexan hatch glass/windshield, gut hood, and cut some more metal out....but would definitely need to start towing at that point. Hopefully by year's end I will be rolling baller style to the track.

 

I thought TTC for 350z is 3188 base weight? Also, Did you do a dyno reclass to go down to TTD?

 

I'm a huge fan the NASA TT Classification system, especially the dyno re-class method, and feel it is the best way to be competitive.

I've chosen to run the car in TTC now w/ a dyno re-class of 2940lbs/235hp:
+10 R6 255/45/17
+ 2 Springs
+ 3 Shocks (Truechoice Phase IV DA Koni)
+ 1 Upgrade Diff
+ 2 StopTech Calipers
Total: +18 TTC

I'm thinking of going to stock calipers and running A6s, that would probably be better use of points as A6s would give me 1 second in lap times vs the R6s ......stoptechs are probably not worth a second.

Here's my info for when I ran TTD and some other info regarding running the Z based on dyno re-class (forgive me if I ramble on a bit, hopefully someone will this information useful):

Dyno Reclass TTD* @ 3195lbs/235hp

+ 7 for the (*)
+10 R6 225/45/17
- 4 225mm Tire
+ 2 Springs
+ 3 Shocks (DA Koni)
+ 1 Upgrade Diff

Total: +19 TTD

Adjusted Wt/Hp Calc:
3195lbs/235hp = 13.59 + .8 (for tire < 255mm) - .05 for weight = 14.34....pretty close to 14.25 min.



Copied from another thread that I posted way back when: https://my350z.com/forum/9559719-post5.html

Yes, the Wt/Hp reclass is the most flexible to way to class a car and in most cases the most competitive.

The nice thing about the NASA Classification system is the various options you can play with. I believe the Z can be very competitive in TTD/TTC and probably TTB (a member on here, Fixxxercask, is gunning for TTB at Nationals). Also want to clarify that any car can be dyno re-classed (mine is stock)...no engine mods or swaps or anything is required....simply get a dyno done (be very careful to follow the exact procedure and fill out proper form) and send an email out to the National director.

Here are some actual reclass configurations for the Z based on Wt/Hp:

3440 lbs / 240whp / TTD / 245mm
3370 lbs / 235whp / TTD / 245mm
3195 lbs / 235whp / TTD* / 245mm
3260 lbs / 240whp / TTD* / 245mm
3360 lbs / 260whp / TTD** / 245mm

2940 lbs / 235whp / TTC / 255mm
3005 lbs / 240whp / TTC / 255mm
2890 lbs / 240whp / TTC / 255mm (must end up in TTB though)

3190 lbs / 306whp / TTB / 265mm

Not sure if this sort of info is sticky worthy but since NASA TT and PT use the same classification system it could be helpful to others as they look to compete in TT/PT to have reference info like this and what others have found to be good setups for TT/PT competition. Maybe in the road course modification guide thread?

 

You should consider Tomei Ti exhaust and y pipe. They are super light, which help you shave about 40lb over stock.

My car is at 3,200 lbs with me in it and 1/4 tank of gas. I feel it is already fast. I can't imagine how fast the car would go weight in at 2,940 lbs.

 

Wow, my car is fairly stripped and yours is far lighter than mine.

You can gut the supports out of the hood to save another 7 or 8 lbs.

I thinik you saved a lot of weight gutting the doors, which I'm about to do.

 

How much weight can you save, if you were gutting out each door? I am consider gutting out the all the internal of the doors, such as power window, glass, and unnessarry hardware, but keep the plastic door panel for clean look. I think saving weight on the doors are very critical, because removing front and high weight at the door helps bring back the weight balance of the car closer to OEM 53:47 weight ratio or better. I track my car, but I am not ready or brave enough to remove all the front dash and plastic door panel. I can live with removing headliner and carpet.

 

The X brace would make it a bit more rigid, even just a simple diagonal will do it. Cutting out the OEM strut bar, IMO , a welded in would not be any better, or save weight. It's a large box, thin metal, just stitch weld it.