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Old May 4, 2015 | 04:45 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by 03threefiftyz
No comment on money I had in the BSP car ...
Yeah, I could only imagine 6-7 is about what I was expecting for ~95% STU build, good to hear that from you guys.

The actual car and build of a 03-05 Z isn't much different than my damn miata. It's the on-going wear items that puts it ahead though. Tires, especially tires. The speed difference on track is the biggest allure for me.
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Old May 4, 2015 | 05:11 PM
  #62  
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Not even scratching the surface...I had custom double koni's, motons and penske's on the BSP car at one time or another ...
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Old May 4, 2015 | 09:39 PM
  #63  
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great build. love the info an the chase video.
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Old May 5, 2015 | 03:29 AM
  #64  
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I wish I had just 6-7 into my build. The MCS double adjustables alone were half that.
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Old May 7, 2015 | 06:25 PM
  #65  
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I noticed you said you run no sway bar in the rear. I have heard of the miata guys that do this.

Any particular reason?

How do you like not having the sway bar? I have considered the same considered the amount of oversteer I currently have. I'm hoping the r-comps Im waiting on showing up will help that.
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Old May 7, 2015 | 06:41 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by SirMichael
I noticed you said you run no sway bar in the rear. I have heard of the miata guys that do this.

Any particular reason?

How do you like not having the sway bar? I have considered the same considered the amount of oversteer I currently have. I'm hoping the r-comps Im waiting on showing up will help that.
The car hooks up better out of corners without a rear sway bar. (At least it does with the spring rates I'm running.)
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Old May 7, 2015 | 07:12 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by Z1NONLY
The car hooks up better out of corners without a rear sway bar. (At least it does with the spring rates I'm running.)
I'm curious how the difference in rates compares between true coilovers and spring perch version.

I run a true coilover at 784f and 672r or atleast thats what I'm getting converting 14k 12k rates. Maybe Ill give it a shot for the event at the of the month. I am curious if it will help keep the inside wheel in contact with the road surface.

Last edited by SirMichael; May 7, 2015 at 07:22 PM.
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Old May 8, 2015 | 03:41 AM
  #68  
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Holy crap...a 12k with true coil? Prepare to drive looking out of the side windows instead of the windshield. Off-hand...that is the equivalent to running a 1400-1500lb spring in the OEM location.
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Old May 8, 2015 | 05:42 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by 03threefiftyz
Holy crap...a 12k with true coil? Prepare to drive looking out of the side windows instead of the windshield. Off-hand...that is the equivalent to running a 1400-1500lb spring in the OEM location.
Yes the rear end is very loose.

Honestly, the more I look into the spring rates I'm not entirely sure. I need to send them back to Zeal and have them rebuilt at the end of the season. I bought them from USANA Z and he told me they were 2k higher spring rates than original. I have since found that they came in 12k/10k (hard) or 10k/8k(soft) depending on where they were ordered from. Vivid racing has the 12k/10k version only. I have sent him a message to try and clarify this.

Never the less yes it is very prone to drifting as it is currently set up. My sways are currently set full stiff up front and full soft out back. (hotchkis)

Not trying to hyjack your thread, apologies. Maybe I should start another one to discuss setup.
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Old May 20, 2015 | 11:28 AM
  #70  
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I broke a motor mount at ZdayZ and it appears that I can use mounts made of any material.

J. Any engine or transmission mount is allowed provided it attaches only
to the original mounting points, does not relocate the engine/transmission
(other than incidental to changes in compliance material),
and weighs no less than the OE mount. All components between the
engine/transmission and the mounting structure are considered to be
part of the mount assembly.

Am I reading this correctly? Metal motor mounts are OK?

Last edited by Z1NONLY; May 20, 2015 at 02:02 PM.
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Old May 20, 2015 | 02:57 PM
  #71  
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Great chatting with you OPP this past week. Its great rattling your brain.

I have the Z1 Motorsports 350Z/G35 Urethane Motor Mounts. Just checked and they are out of stock Sorry. I can check to see if my shop has my oems you can have?

Chris
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Old May 20, 2015 | 04:59 PM
  #72  
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It sounds like the weight thing might get you. I recall seeing that the solid motor mounts where lighter.
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Old May 21, 2015 | 04:49 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by SirMichael
It sounds like the weight thing might get you. I recall seeing that the solid motor mounts where lighter.
A little piece of well placed lead tape may be in order here.........lol
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Old May 21, 2015 | 05:12 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by NA&CH
Great chatting with you OPP this past week. Its great rattling your brain.

I have the Z1 Motorsports 350Z/G35 Urethane Motor Mounts. Just checked and they are out of stock Sorry. I can check to see if my shop has my oems you can have?

Chris
Do you know how many miles were on them before they were removed?
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Old Jun 7, 2015 | 07:43 PM
  #75  
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Default Re71 or Rival S

So I just finished running the pro solo in Texas, super fun format! The car is new to me, got in in November and put ohlins dfv, 10.5" rfp1, front sway and 285 rs3 v2 and camber arms and alignment, that's it so far. The rs3 are approaching 50% but still in their prime. Most of the STU class was running the new RE71r. I was the only 350z, finished 7 of 11. I talked to Brian Peters who was there running a mustang and he said I am probably giving up a second on the 47 second course by not running the new tires which is huge. Several others there said the same thing. Has anyone tried the RE71R or new Rival S on our cars and have a preference? I will get a set in the next few months.
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Old Jun 9, 2015 | 05:40 PM
  #76  
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Everyone around here seems to like the RE71Rs, haven't really heard anything about the Rivals
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 04:49 AM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by jbh1
So I just finished running the pro solo in Texas, super fun format! The car is new to me, got in in November and put ohlins dfv, 10.5" rfp1, front sway and 285 rs3 v2 and camber arms and alignment, that's it so far. The rs3 are approaching 50% but still in their prime. Most of the STU class was running the new RE71r. I was the only 350z, finished 7 of 11. I talked to Brian Peters who was there running a mustang and he said I am probably giving up a second on the 47 second course by not running the new tires which is huge. Several others there said the same thing. Has anyone tried the RE71R or new Rival S on our cars and have a preference? I will get a set in the next few months.
I quickly looked and noticed that neither tire came in 285. Do you go to the 275 size and give up tire width?
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 06:13 AM
  #78  
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The RE71 and Rival are noticeably better than the rs3, Well worth giving up the 10mm, and the re71 at least is a fat 275.
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Old Jun 11, 2015 | 10:04 AM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by steidz
The RE71 and Rival are noticeably better than the rs3, Well worth giving up the 10mm, and the re71 at least is a fat 275.
Hmm, thinner sidewall & smaller diameter = running out of revs. Have to ride the limiter longer or upshift into 3rd .....and then downshift while sawing at the wheel.
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Old Jun 11, 2015 | 11:10 PM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by steidz
The RE71 and Rival are noticeably better than the rs3, Well worth giving up the 10mm, and the re71 at least is a fat 275.
Always look up full specs on tires, kinda odd the 275/35-18 RS3 is wider than the 285/35-18 , but you do have a slightly shorter tire with the 275.
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