Took my car to Pocono today, ABS light went on before the last session, turned off the engine and restart, light off. Last session it turned back on again and never off.

car is 03 base, no TCS, square setup bfgoodrich comp2, carbotech xp10/xp8 w stoptech(Front) & oem brembo(Rear). I had a same Z totaled at NJMP had same setup except the tire brand and pads (better tire but weaker pads), never got an issue. The new Z had couple times autox and 1st track day today. The course has many tight turns, I drove pretty aggressive and trail braking almost every tight turns, not sure if this messed up the ABS?? after the light on, the pedal felt firm and it had weird noise, asked an instructor who owned a Z many years seat with me and told it might because of the dust from carbotech

I will look into this, just want to post up and see if anyone could give me some advice? Thanks in advance!!

 

I've only had that problem since changing to a square setup

 

People have reported a few different types of ABS/brake issues with tracking the Z - I recall reading some others similar to yours.. My issue didn't come with a warning light, I just lost most of my braking when I needed it.

I'd recommend you read those other threads in this sub-forum and .. decide how to proceed. I removed ABS. I also run a square tire setup.

 

I will put on the OEM wheels and see if it can recover.

 

Back from autox, wheels locked up from a hard braking.. Any lock up you had after removing ABS?

 

What weird noise did the pedal have? Was it a noise from the master cylinder?

Also, it sounds like your setup has way more brakes than tires. I bet moving to a tire like the Rival or similar will help. Also try threshold braking and dont brake into the ABS so much, though I know in Autox that can be challenging.

 

I don't know how to describe that noise, but pretty sure it came from the brake. I want the less grippy tires to learn car control but didn't know the brakes are way more than the tires. probably i brought in too much ABS and killed it??

 

Is it normal for ABS actuator having motor sound when turn on ACC and clicking sound turn off ACC?

changed OEM front 225, back is still 275, ran couple mins, tried both light and hard braking, ABS light still on. checked fuses - ok. Going to check the speed sensors.

 

You said you tried hard braking, but was ABS functioning normally at the time? What I meant about the brakes is that you are running upgraded from calipers and track pads, while still on street tires. Definitely from the sound of it you are giving the system a hard workout (not knocking Ive been there also).

First thing you should do is reset the ECU (using the pedal/key dance) and see if the light goes away. Also our cars tend to be sensitive to the fluid level in the brake reservoir, so just make sure it is topped to the full mark (I have had lights come on with the res at prob 2/3 full not low at all...top it up to full and everything is fine again lights dissapear).

The sound may be the normal ABS self diagnosis function, or the unit may be in fail-safe mode. The fact that you are hearing it when you are hearing it is telling...does it do it every time? There is a rather lengthy section in the FSM related to ABS unit malfunctions. Things like the combination of lights on your dash and their sequence indicate bits of what is going on, but to perform the bulk of the tests a Consult diagnosis is called for, and that means a trip to the dealership. The clicking sound when turning off is the throttle body not the abs unit.

This is a great example of where it would be nice to know if an over-the-counter unit such as an Autel Maxidiag would be able to perform these diagnosis.

Some excerpts from the FSM (the actual section is huge):
"ABS Function AFS000YQ
The Anti-Lock Brake System is a function that detects wheel revolution while braking, and it improves
handling stability during sudden braking by electrically preventing 4 wheel lock. Maneuverability is also
improved for avoiding obstacles.
If the electrical system breaks down, then the Fail-Safe function starts, the ABS becomes inoperative,
and the ABS warning lamp turns on.
Electrical System Diagnosis by CONSULT-II is available"

"Fail-Safe Function AFS000YR
TCS SYSTEM
In case of Throttle Control System trouble, the TCS OFF indicator lamp and SLIP indicator lamp are turned on,
and the condition of the vehicle is the same as the condition of vehicles without TCS equipment. In case of
trouble to the Throttle Control System, the ABS control continues to operate normally without TCS control.
CAUTION:
If the Fail-Safe function is activated, then perform the Self Diagnosis for TCS/ABS control system.
ABS, EBD SYSTEM
In case of electrical problems with the ABS, the ABS warning lamp, TCS OFF indicator lamp and SLIP indicator
lamp will turn on. In case of electrical problem with the EBD, Brake (EBD) warning lamp, ABS warning
lamp, TCS OFF indicator lamp and SLIP indicator lamp will turn on. Simultaneously, the TCS/ABS become
one of the following conditions of the Fail-Safe function.
1. For ABS trouble, only the EBD is activated and the condition of the vehicle is the same condition of vehicles
without TCS/ABS equipment.
2. For EBD trouble, the EBD and ABS become inoperative, and the condition of the vehicle is the same as
the condition of vehicles without TCS/ABS, EBD equipment.
NOTE:
In condition 1 described above, an ABS Self Diagnosis sound may be heard. That is a normal condition
because a self diagnosis for “Key Switch ON” and “the First Starting” are being performed."

 

Yes. lockup can occur without ABS if you brake too hard. But I have found it manageable (on Dunlop Star Spec IIs). I'd rather risk lockup than risk loss of brakes.

 

The weird sound and feeling on the track is different than bedding in the pads on hightway, the braking pressure pretty much the same. The way back from the Pocono, I moderate braking on the highway, the weird feeling still exist with the ABS light on but not at the slow speed (~30mph), after removing the dust from the slot on the rotor, it was better.

Will reset ECU tonight, the brake fluid was on the full mark. Maybe also try a brake fluid flush~

The ABS actuator sounds like that every time I turn the ACC on. I read FSM, but it doesn’t really help without CONSULT-II.

 

Lock up the wheels at the end of long straight before a tight turn will be a nightmare…

 

Checked the passenger front sensor today, noticed it was scuffed, took a pic to compare with the good spare sensor. Not sure if the sensor is good/bad, want to swap to the spare one, but the connector at the other end is stuck

 

The distance of the sensor to the abs trigger wheels is extremely important. Looking like the scuffed one is too close. Did you removed the brake dust shield? Maybe the hub bearings are flexing?

Also. The abs pump is notorious to fail, you can get replacements in the junkyard for cheap. I always carry a spare with me. I've been through a few abs pumps.

 

I didn’t remove the dust shield, just cut it off. I will check the hub bearing tonight.

I have a spare ABS actuator. After replacing the pump, Is it easy to bleed all the air out of the ABS pump?

 

Yea as long as you left the part of the shield I between the hub your ok.

Yea bleeding isn't that bad. Motive tool helps a ton

 

Thanks Mark.

 

Well that doesn't look good. Hopefully that is why your system is going into fail-safe. Good luck.

 

Since my car doesnt have TCS, except losing ABS, any chance to have brake failure? I want to take it to the track anyway, and learn threshold braking.

 

I don't think it's possible to have brake failure with no abs pump. But your brake bias will be strange I bet.