A hammer blow often doesn't do the trick, because most of the impulse of the blow is dissipated by the compliance in the suspension. The extending bolts apply the force directly where it's needed, without any loss, so much less force is required. I always apply a thin coat of Permatex graphite anti-seize compound to the hub face when installing a new rotor. The next time you need to pull the rotor, it will pop right off.

 

Agreed. And I'm sure the hammer method is bad for bearings, studs, etc.

 

Make sure the parking brake is OFF when trying to remove the rear rotors. Another tip is to back off the parking brake adjuster slightly - check the service manual, you remove a small cover, turn the rotor to certain position then use a screw driver to twist a shaft that will move the shoes in a tiny bit. Don't forget to reverse the process once the new rotors are on or your parking brake might not hold firm enough.

My front rotors came right off while the rears required a slight attitude adjustment to encourage them to release. Just a few light taps with a rubber mallet was all it took. Most likely surface rust between the rotor and hub so putting some grease there makes perfect sense.

 

George, my left front "Rock Auto" caliper did just fine all weekend! Having said that, it was definitely in my mind every time I went into a hard braking zone!!!!!
I have since picked up a used real Brembo and, like you, plan to rebuild it. I think I will have more trust in that
I will say that for anyone who wanted to put a big brake kit on their street car, the Rock Auto calipers would be the way to go!

 

Glad you survived. My set is supposed to be here tomorrow. I got the OEM configuration stainless steel lines from Z1 (really nice as they mount to the OEM mounting brackets) as well as new OEM hard tubing that attaches to the caliper. Still need to order rebuild kits.