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interested possibly in the stock axles that Rusty had for sale I'm at the crossroads currently with replacing complete left rear side something was causing extreme heat on the road or to the point that when I want to touch it see how what she was radiating from the brake disc I was fortunate because I play guitar and have nice thick calluses but it's the tediously the smoke rolled off the ends of my fingers yes the brake rotor was that hot something is causing the excessive heat and it sounds like a friction noise as if you've got brake pads dragging with that said not sure what is causing the issue but potentially it may be damaging something and we'll end up undoubtedly being a catastrophic failure on the rear end. It is undriveable like this logically the only thing that I knew that I could do is replacing all components brake pads the rotor looks usable but it's a possibility it could have rotor warp did not City hotspots but that doesn't mean that some of that noise may have been generated from exactly that rotor warpage although there are no braking issues with the vehicle at all! I suspected that it was the hub bearings! With that said I wish that I would have seen this post about using the 370 conversion it seems that there was quite an interesting subject going on with that. However in my logical ways of looking at things I think the jury is still out on on this matter I'm not dismissing the idea and realizing this is the older post and it maybe now fully acceptable to Interchange these parts without any issues. In question related on 350z/370 conversion does it require a conversion set up from Z1 or can you just adopt to the 370 without any additional requirements. Also with that said was something mentioned from this previous article I also to reacted to quickly squeezing the trigger on standard parts replacement from Amazon purchasing the 350 Z OEM wheel hub and bearing assembly. I would feel more secure with the 370 set up if that is working safely for others who have used this process because I did did note immediately the price differences and it was just a fluke that I came across this article today on this interesting subject of swapping out from the standard 350Z to the 370 Nissan Driveline components thank you so much you all have a great 20/20 race season and be safe!
Hi Paul,
Were you referring to Rusty having axles for sale or me? I still have them. Price is firm at $225 plus shipping. They are genuine Nissan AutoVantage in original packaging, never used.
Blew a 370z axle on my 350z I'm sure the welded diff did not help, but they were duralast axles. The axles are not even 3 months old and have barely 1k miles on them. Will be replacing with Nissan to see how they hold.
Digging this up again - can anybody confirm if you have to swap the sides when upgrading to 370Z axles? I'm in the middle of doing the upgrades, and was able to purchase the hubs and the 370Z LEFT axle; but the 370Z RIGHT axle was back-ordered when I tried to purchase. However when I went to install on the left side of my 350z, the 'left' axle was too long. For fun, I went to go fit it up to the right side, and it fit in perfect. So now I'm wondering if I purchase the 370Z RIGHT axle, if it'll actually fit to the left side of my 350? Can anybody confirm if the left to right 370Z axles are different sizing, and/or if anyone else has run into this?
FWIW, I have a VLSD diff housing, VLSD half shafts, fitted to a Tomei 2-way LSD. I've also tried joining the FB group mentioned above in this thread so I could pose the question there, and they still haven't accepted my app. Thanks in advance.
Hey @pfregeolle I'm in the same boat but waiting for Z1 upgrade (370z kit) to get stock. The axles are different lengths and it sounds like you got the sides switched. I got a set of chinese axles but they had play in them and the splines to bearing hubs had play as well. Waiting for OEM. Great thread here as it confirms all the minor issues with the upgrade which are axle bolts either need to be longer for full thread engagement with lock washers or loose the LW and use thread locker. Also it's very important to torque those axle nuts to factory spec. of 177ftlb. I had to get a new wrench that went that high.
Hey @pfregeolle I'm in the same boat but waiting for Z1 upgrade (370z kit) to get stock. The axles are different lengths and it sounds like you got the sides switched. I got a set of chinese axles but they had play in them and the splines to bearing hubs had play as well. Waiting for OEM. Great thread here as it confirms all the minor issues with the upgrade which are axle bolts either need to be longer for full thread engagement with lock washers or loose the LW and use thread locker. Also it's very important to torque those axle nuts to factory spec. of 177ftlb. I had to get a new wrench that went that high.
thanks for the reply dude - so in your experience, the 370z left axle went to the left side of your car, and the right axle went to the right side of your car? Maybe I just wasn't trying hard enough to get the axle in.
I purchased all of my parts from Concept Z Performance, and used the Nissan Value Advantage stuff.
I’m mad late to the party, but $0.02 to help anyone looking for this info.
I’m running 370z axles and and bearings/hubs. I did the RockAuto thing to get mine. I had the rear subframe all the way out of the car to powdercoat a bunch of stuff and to do some other chassis work. As a result I really forgot which new axle was for what side, but just measured from the stub axle flange to the hub bearing face and put the long axle on the long side. No problems yet *knock wood* and that’s with some track days on it. I also have a VLSD pumpkin and stub axles.
Be sure to pick up some M24 washers so you can get the castellated nut to align properly with the split pin drilling provided in the axle. I think the 370 people do the same to avoid the strange Nissan locking cap that comes stock and tends to back off.
12-28-2019, 03:42 PM
