Chebosto

iTrader: (43)

Cusco RS 1.5 way on 60% lock, finned diff cover and using mobil 1 synthetic gear oil. 75w-90.

worth every penny.

i would suggest trying that motul gear oil to quiet it down a little.

Andres_Miami

iTrader: (20)

I have the LSD that comes with the enthusiast edition. I bought the 3.9, but not sure if worth the $$ to go for an aftermarket LSD. The 101 idea of a LSD is that both tires will rotated at the same time, that can help to leave the corner with a litle more of speed. I use slick tires and so far I'm leaving the corner almost side ways, specially if I'm to hard on the gas.

I don't want an LSD to spin out when leaving the corner, that is way I was asking to see what have you feel since any of you changed the LSD.

Thanks

Zian

You are almost right...but actually the idea of an LSD is to PREVENT both tires from rotating the same speed. Not allow it. Technically what an lsd does is slow down the inner tire rotation, or give more power to the outer, etc to prevent exactly what you are talking about. So technically an LSD should allow you higher cornering speed with less...well...slipping. There is the viscous type, gear type or clutch type, and a few different builds to each. Do some reading and see if it matches what you are looking for. Best of luck!

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

hands down the best bang for the buck mod I did to my car

Cusco RS 1.5 way diff, 60% lockup :0 First one installed into a US Z back in 2004, and it absolutely rocks!

Andres_Miami

iTrader: (20)

Correct me if I'm wrong, is not that I want to be stubborn, but why is it that with an open diff. that does not happen? The inner wheel will spin, you will burn tire, but you wont drift.
I don't know if it is something associated with driving skills? My whole reasoning is that a spool will not help you on a corner 'couse it will make you spin, a open diff will not help you 'couse you will lose "power" cornering. So, does the "60%" lock will help you improve the lack of driving skills or do you need more driving skills to control a tail-happy car?

Thanks

12AutoX

iTrader: (7)

The clutch type (and the Torsen) LSD's manage the torque going to each wheel. With an open diff, 100% of the torque goes to the inside wheel. This is also the case with the Torsen if the wheel lifts completely off the ground. With a welded diff, each wheel gets half the torque, but both wheels go the same speed. With a viscous diff (like you have in the Enthusiast model I think) it takes a while for the goo inside to spin the outside wheel, so you get a slip....grab as you exit the corner. Really annoying. I have the Nismo GT LSD, which is similar to the Cusco or Kaaz. You get 100% lock in a straight line, and torque distributed between the tires in a turn, but still allowing each tire to turn at a different speed. The reason this is faster is because it is allowing both tires to handle as much power as possible, hence you get through the corner faster. It is a good decision, and I second that it is the best mod you can do if you are into grip racing or drift. The car feels smoother and more composed in the turns. If you are exiting the turn sideways and you have an earlier model Z, I recommend some Koni shocks and springs with a higher ratio of rear to front spring rate. I got the RS*R Ti 2000's, and the car stays planted now where it used to get very tail happy in corner exits.

Andres_Miami

iTrader: (20)

Yes, Im into AutoX, not into drifting. I have Tein flex with 800 something lb up front to avoid a nose dive that I had, I understood I should use a higher rate at the back? Sorry, I dont agree. Could you explain me why? also, when I said tail-happy is becouse if Im not carefull on the gas, the car will spin out.

12AutoX

iTrader: (7)

I'm no suspension expert- I stayed away from coilovers and stiff springs because my other car has them and it sucks to drive on the street. My experience from tuning with XBOX Forza Motorsport (very scientific, no?) is that the Z does well with springs between 380-500 lb/in. and relatively soft damping in the rear. The weight transfer to the rear helps it hook up. Anyway, I got the spring rates of all the available kits and tested them on the game. I got my best lap times using the spring rates and ride heights listed for the RS*R's, so I bought them. Turns out they work just like they do on the game! I tried running high spring rates on the game and had disastrous results- terrible oversteer and difficulty hooking up in corner exits. People will think I'm nuts for using a computer model to choose spring rates, but hey, I can't afford to actually buy and test the real thing. It's odd that most coilover kits for the Z have stiffer front springs than rears, but the latest Z's come from the factory with rear spring rates much stiffer than the fronts.

Z33_SPL

iTrader: (2)

I'm running a Carbonetic Metal 2-way lsd. It's aggressive as hell, like running a welded diff. It clunks and pops like a crazy, but the chicks dig it. It makes their ***** bounce. I suggest you get the Carbonetic Carbon 1.5-way. We run it on our road race Supra and it's amazing.

Andres_Miami

iTrader: (20)

higher rate at the back, than the front does not make to much sense to me, no only for the grip part as you described but also to avoid any nose dive. Nevertheless, you made me laugh, in a good way, like the ***** bounce lsd. jajajaja

I have an event on sunday, by then I hope to see posting some tire pressure on 275 slicks and good damping setings for the tein

Gsedan35

iTrader: (10)

About the oem VLSD, the following is a cut and paste product discription from the oem manufactuer for Nissan, Hitachi/Tochigi Fuji Sangyo

The LSD unit consists of stacks of thin plates with holes or slots, all suspended in a special silicone fluid. They have no clutches to wear out, and locking characteristics can theoretically be changed by varying fluid viscosity. Generally, however, these units are non-serviceable, and require no special maintenance. As the differential spins, the plates shear the fluid up to a point, after which the fluid provides some resistance to shear, allowing 15-25% torque transfer to the other wheel. The downside is that these units don't act like a limited slip until one wheel actually starts slipping (i.e., they don't prevent slippage), which means the VLSD action often kicks in after you've already exited the corner. Compared to the proactive nature of the Torsen LSDs, the VLSDs are reactive units. They do not prevent slippage, they merely sense differences in rotation, not torque. They also don't allow for very much torque transfer, compared to mechanical or clutch-pack LSDs. They do still work well for starting from a dead stop in slippery conditions. It is important to note that VLSDs locking characteristics occur both during acceleration AND braking, as it can't tell the difference between the two, but merely reacts to the rotational speed differences between the two drive wheels.

Andres_Miami

iTrader: (20)

interesting...

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

Carbonetics Carbon LSD here. Zippy350 and I use them on the track, and it really is a night and day experience for those that track their cars. The best way to describe it, as that as you apply power out of the corner, you know exactly what the rear end is doing, and corrections to the wheel, translate into immediate correction of the rear. It is very confidence inspiring. Set at 100% lock, and smooth as butter for daily driving use.

Andres_Miami

iTrader: (20)

Ok guys,quick question. How much often do you change the lsd discs? what is the live expectancy?

daveh

iTrader: (9)

I like the principle of carbon lsd plates for smooth engagement. It is similar in to a ceramic treated unit from diffsonline (BMW's only), or the WPC treatment that I had done to the my nismo plates. Treated lsd clutch plates are the way to go in terms of a smooth transition to lockup.

In terms of rebuilds, I took mine apart after 2 race seasons and 40K miles and the plates were still in excellent shape. I would venture to say that they would be good for at least 5 hard years and 100k miles before showing signs of degradation in performance.

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

According to Carbonetics, the carbon plates last 2-3 times longer than metal plates. Mine has 40K miles on it, and a lot of track use, and still functioning well. Might get the rebuild kit and change it out over the winter, just to see how everything looks.

first350

iTrader: (24)

to the OP: it sounds like a different LSD won't solve the problem of oversteer for you...you might try changing suspesnion settings or driver technique (softer rear strut settings, lower rear tire presses...). The Z is very easy to get tail happy, so throttle modulation is key - if you mash on the gas exiting any corner, the rear end will happily come out.

I've been thinking of getting the Cusco RS LSD for autoX because I've found that when exiting certian corners (especially off camber), my inside wheel spins and I'm not able to put down the power. (I have the OE VLSD). I think that's the type of scneario where a clutck/gear type LSD would help.

Andres_Miami

iTrader: (20)

I couldn't agree more with you. I believe driving technique is a key factor on this, even though that at my last event, my Z improved a lot I still need some more practice. I found my settings pretty normal for autox and so, I need to read the car better, nevertheless from the out side, I friend of mine saw how one of my wheels will slip exiting a tight corner last Sunday.

I will ask everyone again in case they didn’t read it. What is the live expectancy of a clutch type LSD?

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

Answered here.

I have yet to hear of anyone having to rebuild their LSD's, so I would figure at least 3 years???

Andres_Miami

iTrader: (20)

thanks!