Hey guys what brake fluid you use, where did you buy it and how much exactly our brake system contains? (How much do I need to flush whole system?)

Thanks

 

I've used ATE SuperBlue and Typ200. Good stuff for the money. Not sure of the total capacity of our system, but you can flush most of it out with 1L, so I'm guessing it's just under 1L.

Since I've been reaching the limits of the SuperBlue, I'm going to try a new fluid, Neosynthetic. Here's a little reference chart for you all.

DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE)
DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE)
DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5 MINIMUM (SILICONE BASE)
DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5.1 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE)
DRY:509F -- WET:365F --- MOTUL 5.1
DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551 ($12.95/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
DRY:527F -- WET:347F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER DOT3 & DOT4
DRY:536F -- WET:392F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200 ($9.95/1L)
DRY:550F -- WET:284F --- FORD HEAVY DUTY DOT 3 ($4/12 OZ)
DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- WILWOOD 570 ($5.65/12 OZ)
DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- PERFORMANCE Friction Z rated ($6.27/16 OZ)
DRY:590F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING 600 ($16.95/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF ($69.00/1L 0R 33.8 OZ)
DRY:593F -- WET:420F --- MOTUL RBF600 ($12.95/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
DRY:601F -- WET:399F --- BREMBO LCF 600 PLUS ($26.75/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO SYNTHETICS SUPER DOT 610 ($11.95/12 OZ)
DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- PROSPEED GS610 ($39.95/16 OZ)
DRY:626F -- WET:417F --- WILWOOD EXP 600 ($16.95/0.5L 16.9 OZ)

 

I did a search on the net and got couple of controversial results about SuperBlue... I'd like to know what other Z owners here use.

I found out that most of those hi-end stuff is for racing only since it absorbs water quickly and need to be flashed every time. I'd like to get something in the middle - good for autox and can keep up without absorbing too much moister for a long time for street use.

 

That's exactly why I recommended the SuperBlue. I'd say that 75% of the people that I know that track / autoX their use it. I'm curious to read what bad things you've read about it. Another unknown secret it the Ford Heavy Duty believe it or not. You might laugh, but a lot of club racers use it.

 

On some racing forum I've read a witnessing that SuperBlue boiled on track after not that many laps...

 

John is right. Superblue is good stuff. It's pretty high BP, easy to use (color changing helps with flushing) and has very few downsides. I always recommend it to people unless they have already tried it and boiled it. It's also perfectly fine for street use since even wet it has a BP that's plenty high for street driving. If you're tracking the car you should do a fluid flush every 3-6 months anyway.

Having said that, a lot of people (myself included) use Motul RBF600 because it is a little bit higher BP. It's not as easy to use (only comes in yellowish/gold color) and is a little bit more expensive but it's pretty easy to find and buys you another 60 degrees of heat protection.

My oversimplified system is that Superblue is my recommendation to most students and Motul is my recommendation for very advanced students/instructors or cars with too high of an HP/brake ratio.

John's list is interesting. I've never used any of the other fluids but maybe someday I'll try. So far I'm not boiling the Motul so I'll stick with it.

 

Well, SuperBlue like any other fluid will boil if there's any air bubbles in the line. I'm always a bit skeptical of what I read on the internet, as many people love to exaggerate problems even though there were extenuating circumstances. Having used SuperBlue for many track events, it wasn't until recently that I started to boil it. The only other times I boiled it was after many track days where the fluid begins to absorb moisture and air bubbles form (I admit that I went 7 track days without bleeding any fluid out, hehe). At Mid-Ohio, I only had about 2 track days on the fluid, and I was able to boil it, but that's because I'm getting faster and faster, and I love to go REAL deep into the braking zone (in fact, it scares many people).

That being said, I completely agree that for 90% of DE students, SuperBlue is perfect. Most students don't push their car that far to the limits, and for AutoX, I assure you that you'll never boil your fluid.

Jason, I'd like to note that I wasn't the one who compiled the list. A guy named "nsxtasy" on HT did, and I added a few things to it. The dry and wet boiling points were procured from manufacturer websites, and the prices are ballpark figures (some cheaper, some more expensive). I think it's a great reference table for most of the fluids available on the market.

 

Some of you guys are CRAZY!!!!!!

Brake fluid NEEDS to be changed prior to EVERY track event.

7 events without a bleed???? I'd MUCH rather be safe than sorry. I like knowing my pedal on my last lap is as strong as the 1st lap!


I never had a problem last year. Well, I did melt my SS line covering, and turned my black Stoptech hats purple, and spun my tires on the rims. BUT, I never lost any stopping ability.

Be careful out there!

 

I use Superblue and no problems.

You do not need to change the fluid after every event just bleed it until you see the bright blue if it has changed at all.

 

Superblue is a great fluid for the track. The problem is, that blue dye just stains everything! It turns your brake bleeing line, reservoir, etc. that sick shade of blue. Personally, I don't find it hard to tell the difference between new (clear) and old (milky, discolored) fluid. So I don't see the need for that horrible blue dye.

Stick with the Typ200 if you like Ate fluids. Or just get some Motul RBF600. It costs about the same and has even better dry and wet boiling points.

Emre

 

The Motul RBF600 costs three times as much at $18 for .5L versus $10-12 for 1L of ATE.

 

I get the Motul locally for $15, and if you do a bunch of tracking you could buy a case for $144 and split it with a couple buddies to bring it down to around $12 per bottle. Still more expensive, but at least you'd be down to 2x the cost of the ATE instead of 3x.

 

what is the difference between dry and wet boiling point?

 

I have always used the Castrol SRF in my racecars. It's my secret weapon as far the brakes are concerned. Never had brake fade even in races where ambient air temp was around 100Deg and track temp was probably 120-130. Yes it is $60-70 a liter but you change it once a year and bleed it every weekend, you only go through 1-2 liters. $120 for brake fluid that cant (in my experience) be boiled to the point where you feel fade. When looking at the Dry and Wet boiling points, the Wet boiling point is what you should be interested in. The Dry boiling point is without any contamination (air, moisture) in the brake system. Since it is impossible to keep air or moisture out of the brake system, the Dry figure doesnt mean a lot. I know a lot of people that boil motul, and ATE to the point of fade, I have never seen any problem with the SRF. Just my 2cents...

 

ALong - Probably true but I'm guessing a lot of the guys on here don't need to go to the SRF.

There are a lot of newbies on here who are running street pads at HPDEs and for whom even Motul may be overkill...

On the other hand there are a lot of drivers of various skill level running 14" BBKs with street tires and also aren't boiling fluid.

With the 13" StopTechs, brake ducts and PF01s I have not needed to go to anything above the Motul. And I'm using the crap out of the brakes. I'm still reaching threshold braking on Hoosiers after 20+ laps with a consistent, solid pedal.

Having said that the SRF is good stuff, I have absolutely nothing against it if people feel they need it.