race wheels
#2
Re: race wheels
I'm running that setup with 275/40 Nitto 555 R2 (R compound) tires. I was just at the track with it yesterday. Traction control (and presumably VDC) hates it but it helps to dial most of the understeer out of the car. I had no issues with clearence or rubbing. I love the combo.
Originally posted by M23
17x9 27mm offset front and rear
will this setup run fine on track?
i mean running same offset and width wheels for front and rear, does that affect handling?
17x9 27mm offset front and rear
will this setup run fine on track?
i mean running same offset and width wheels for front and rear, does that affect handling?
#3
I also run a similar setup 17x9 et20 front and rear. I usually place a 15 or 20mm spacer in the rear.
With the higher 27mm offset you may also want a 5 or 10mm spacer up front... for best looks and a little wider stance.
Tire sizes I have used are as follows:
255/40/17 all around (had to disable ABS/VDC to keep from intruding)
245/45/17 all around (had to disable ABS/VDC to keep from intruding)
245/40/17 front and 255/45/17 rear (OK with ABS fuse in)
Next I will rund 255/45/17 front and 275/45/17 rear with fuse pulled (I usually drive with ABS/VDC disabled all the time) HTH
With the higher 27mm offset you may also want a 5 or 10mm spacer up front... for best looks and a little wider stance.
Tire sizes I have used are as follows:
255/40/17 all around (had to disable ABS/VDC to keep from intruding)
245/45/17 all around (had to disable ABS/VDC to keep from intruding)
245/40/17 front and 255/45/17 rear (OK with ABS fuse in)
Next I will rund 255/45/17 front and 275/45/17 rear with fuse pulled (I usually drive with ABS/VDC disabled all the time) HTH
#5
The Fuse is located in the narrow fuse box by the battery (under hood p/s side compartment by windshield) When you open the cover it will be the only larger style red square fuse all the way on one end.
I used to pull this only for spirited drives and track, but now leave it out almost all the time.
When you start the car and roll forward you will notice the following lights will come on: Brake, VDC, Slip, ABS. This will disable the following: VDC, T/C, ABS and you will be able to feel the throttle response is different right away. HTH
I used to pull this only for spirited drives and track, but now leave it out almost all the time.
When you start the car and roll forward you will notice the following lights will come on: Brake, VDC, Slip, ABS. This will disable the following: VDC, T/C, ABS and you will be able to feel the throttle response is different right away. HTH
#6
I'm running 17X9.5 +35 all around and have 5mm spacers on order for the fronts to give some extra clearance from the arms. Your tires may be sticking outside of the fenders up front if you go with 275's. Mine are perfectly flush with the +35mm
#7
Dave are you running the stock front arms? 275 is pretty aggresive up front, is that for autocross mostly? The most I have run is 265/35/18 on a 9" et25 wheel and that had good clearance...
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#8
It is for road racing. When I mount the wheels up front, there is about 3mm of clearance between the wheel and the arm. After taking the wheels off at the end of the track day, I saw a slight black mark on the arms where the tire was rubbing (presumably under hard cornering). There is no noticeable mark on the actual tire so I figure it's minor rubbing at best, but to be safe a 5mm spacer should give me some extra clearance. I am running the stock arms.
#11
I didn't think the 1/4" would make a difference because it would put the actual tire in the same place as a 9" rim with the same offset. It's the tire hitting the arm, not the wheel. Perhaps it's just the difference in brands and what they consider to be +35 offset. I think the 275 fits better on the 9.5 too.
This setup does look very meaty up front. I think sport compact car used the term "autocross freakshow". When I get some A arms, it'll tuck the wheel in a little and not look so oversized.
This setup does look very meaty up front. I think sport compact car used the term "autocross freakshow". When I get some A arms, it'll tuck the wheel in a little and not look so oversized.
Last edited by daveh; 09-22-2004 at 12:14 PM.
#12
Re: race wheels
Originally posted by M23
17x9 27mm offset front and rear
will this setup run fine on track?
i mean running same offset and width wheels for front and rear, does that affect handling?
17x9 27mm offset front and rear
will this setup run fine on track?
i mean running same offset and width wheels for front and rear, does that affect handling?
Not totally happy with the tires on the track though. Sidewall is a bit too soft, softer than 040's. If I had to do it over, I'd get 245/40's. Stiffen up the sidewalls, and improve gearing a bit.
Using same size tires F & R helps get rid of that pesky understeer! That, and Cusco sway bars.
BTW, I do not use spacers.
#14
which 17" wheels for track set?
Which 17" wheels for Track (light & strong) set? at a reasonable price?
My investigation on this subject suggests you first start with an investment decision on Cast vs. Forged (stronger and mo $$) wheels. Here are some options that seem to be popular presuming you get 8.5", 9", or 9.5 inch (or maybe 10"ers). Simple cast wheels in the $200 range are the low end option with some Khumo R tires
High Quality light Cast
Enkei's such as RPF1 $250-$350 ea
Lower Cost Forged $400-$500 ea
Racing Hart's - single piece
Complete Custom Wheels - very strong multi piece
I am looking at used BBS 17" wheel options from Bob Woodward Tires.
I will be interested to see what is suggested by others.
My investigation on this subject suggests you first start with an investment decision on Cast vs. Forged (stronger and mo $$) wheels. Here are some options that seem to be popular presuming you get 8.5", 9", or 9.5 inch (or maybe 10"ers). Simple cast wheels in the $200 range are the low end option with some Khumo R tires
High Quality light Cast
Enkei's such as RPF1 $250-$350 ea
Lower Cost Forged $400-$500 ea
Racing Hart's - single piece
Complete Custom Wheels - very strong multi piece
I am looking at used BBS 17" wheel options from Bob Woodward Tires.
I will be interested to see what is suggested by others.
#19
I would classify the Kumho Victoracer V700 as a slightly stickier more aggressive tire than the Toyo RA1. Under most conditions it will not last as long, but should allow for better times (taking into account car setup, race/road conditions, etc...) The Kumho also tends to like a little more camber, which unless you have adjustable upper control arms on your Z33 it is difficult to achieve. There is also the newer Kumho Ecsta V700 which I have less experience with, but is similar to the Victoracer, with a little stiffer sidewalls, lighter weight and slightly less all out grip.
It really depends on the type of driving: street, autocross, HPDE, time trial? Will these be used for track only, or will they be driven on a daily basis? If driven on the street for extended periods of time most people would prefer the Toyos... unless you are willing to compromise some longevity for the added grip. HTH
It really depends on the type of driving: street, autocross, HPDE, time trial? Will these be used for track only, or will they be driven on a daily basis? If driven on the street for extended periods of time most people would prefer the Toyos... unless you are willing to compromise some longevity for the added grip. HTH
#20
For price I'm guessing the MB Motoring Competition wheel is a good choice. 17by 9" size, 27 offset, 20 pounds a piece and $134.00 a wheel through Discount tire. It's a little heavier than the next step up (Enkei RPFI's: 16.5 pounds, $250.00 per) but hell, we're not pro race drivers here. I'd rather save some cash for new tires and loose a tenth second a lap.