SPC Toe Bolt install write up with pics courtesy of Protocav.
#41
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the link to the write up. However, I must diagree with all of you. This is is NOT an easy job. I've done brakes, stainless lines, cat back, intake and tune ups and this is a much higher degree of difficulty. I just did it and it took me about 4 hours for the first side and 2 hours for the second. The lower control arm "camber arm" is not that bad but you will need to drop your sway bar to get to the bolt out. Be sure to loosen both ends of the camber arm before taking it out, you'll need a breaker bar because it's on tight. The Toe bolts suck, at least enlarging the holes sucks. Not only will you need a dremel, you should also get the flexible attatchment "flex shaft" to actually gain clearance. On the driver side I had a hell of a time getting a straight shot to elongate the holes. Be sure to wear eye protection, gloves and long sleeves. I ended up with metal shavings sticking out of my skin like splinters. The end result is that I got it done but am feeling a little ill at the fact my holes are not as nice as the ones in the picture(even thought i tried to follow the template). I'm hoping I haven't permantly damaged my cross member, which is factory welded by the way. Getting it aligned tommorow.
#42
Registered User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: sinCity
Posts: 234
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by JP350Z2004
Thanks for the link to the write up. However, I must diagree with all of you. This is is NOT an easy job. I've done brakes, stainless lines, cat back, intake and tune ups and this is a much higher degree of difficulty. I just did it and it took me about 4 hours for the first side and 2 hours for the second. The lower control arm "camber arm" is not that bad but you will need to drop your sway bar to get to the bolt out. Be sure to loosen both ends of the camber arm before taking it out, you'll need a breaker bar because it's on tight. The Toe bolts suck, at least enlarging the holes sucks. Not only will you need a dremel, you should also get the flexible attatchment "flex shaft" to actually gain clearance. On the driver side I had a hell of a time getting a straight shot to elongate the holes. Be sure to wear eye protection, gloves and long sleeves. I ended up with metal shavings sticking out of my skin like splinters. The end result is that I got it done but am feeling a little ill at the fact my holes are not as nice as the ones in the picture(even thought i tried to follow the template). I'm hoping I haven't permantly damaged my cross member, which is factory welded by the way. Getting it aligned tommorow.
#47
Registered User
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Bellevue, Ne
Posts: 2,386
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The question for me is: How do these work with the GT spec lower rear tie bar brace? Will I need to elongate the brace hole to, or will I be SOL and deal with what I got?
I find it hard to justify chuckin a $130 plus brace for 2 $40 bolts.
I find it hard to justify chuckin a $130 plus brace for 2 $40 bolts.
#49
Registered User
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Bellevue, Ne
Posts: 2,386
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by jcpeyton
A very good question, punish her. While waiting for release of the front arms and hoping to install f+r at the same time, I've been wondering the same thing.
This is the rough part about the GT SPEC braces. Only a few people have them and many factors are not the same (wheels dimensions, suspentio adjustments, ride height, etc.) so we do not have a solid comparison to go buy. A guy at stock ride height with stock wheels has no issues with the alignment process. A guy with much widder wheels, fully adjustable suspention and a drop may have issues just getting it to -1.6. Yeah this may not me a bad thing to some. However, if one has access to a free alignment hook up and wants to run road coarses one day and 1/4 drags another; they both have widely diffrent optimal camber settings.
#50
Registered User
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Killeen, Texas
Posts: 404
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just bought the camber arm and not the toe bolt. My car is not lowered and I want the camber to be at 0 in the rear. Is the camber arm sufficient for this or do I nedd the toe bolt also?
#51
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Fairfield, NJ
Posts: 380
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
can someone put the reason why you would want this in layman's terms?
is this the only way to solve the tire feathering issue ? or is this for something else?
is this the only way to solve the tire feathering issue ? or is this for something else?
#52
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Escondido
Posts: 11,373
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by SBT
can someone put the reason why you would want this in layman's terms?
is this the only way to solve the tire feathering issue ? or is this for something else?
is this the only way to solve the tire feathering issue ? or is this for something else?
#53
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Fairfield, NJ
Posts: 380
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by MIAPLAYA
In laymans terms. When you lower your car it affects the camber and toe settings of the wheel. The only PROPER way to correct the toe setting is to install these.
#56
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Escondido
Posts: 11,373
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by JDMFairlady21
is it advisable to get the alignment right after installation?
#57
New Member
iTrader: (5)
Originally Posted by SBT
can someone put the reason why you would want this in layman's terms?
is this the only way to solve the tire feathering issue ? or is this for something else?
is this the only way to solve the tire feathering issue ? or is this for something else?
This is one reason you may want it... my personal experience.
http://chicagoz.com/v-web/bulletin/b...pic.php?t=5106
Mia and Proactv, thanks for the ToeBolt write-up, good info! This illustration may help with clarification of parts.
Zquicksivler
Last edited by Zquicksilver; 08-18-2006 at 01:55 PM.
#58
New Member
iTrader: (5)
Quick question...
Protocav states that you only need to open the toe-bolt slots inboard and to not waste your time with drilling the slots outboard.
Will this give me enough range +/- with the SPC toe bolt? I'm assuming the toe-bolt slots only need to be opened inboard when trying to achieve less camber and a proper alignment?
TIA,
Zquicksilver
Protocav states that you only need to open the toe-bolt slots inboard and to not waste your time with drilling the slots outboard.
Will this give me enough range +/- with the SPC toe bolt? I'm assuming the toe-bolt slots only need to be opened inboard when trying to achieve less camber and a proper alignment?
TIA,
Zquicksilver
Last edited by Zquicksilver; 08-29-2006 at 04:26 PM.
#60
Registered User
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Seattle/Portland
Posts: 2,754
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Skrilla
if someone could provide me the length of the toe bolts I bet I could fabricate sets...thanks