Eibach Springs Installed with PICS and instruction, G35 Coupe - Page 3 - MY350Z.COM - Nissan 350Z and 370Z Forum Discussion

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Old 09-11-2009, 06:54 PM   #41
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Why everything seems so difficult to do on a Z? I guess I better be ready for my headache, waiting on the rear camber kit to do everything at once.
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Old 10-01-2009, 09:11 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by paposalsa View Post
Why everything seems so difficult to do on a Z? I guess I better be ready for my headache, waiting on the rear camber kit to do everything at once.
The Z is pretty easy compared to other cars...trust me
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Old 03-20-2010, 11:43 PM   #43
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I used this procedure today to replace my rear springs and shocks. Only a few details missing in the write up that I will add now but don't have pics for.

There's a rubber piece in the bottom of the rear spring buckets. Be sure to remove those and put them on the new springs. They line up a particular way when seated but because of how they are shaped you can only put them in one of two ways so this is not hard to to figure out.

When replacing the rear shocks, there's just two nuts that hold the mounting brakcet at the top and the big one at the bottom that is pictured in this thread. Yu have to compress the shocks a bit to get them out but this can be done by hand and once they are out, use vice grips and a 14mm wrench to remove the nut from the top of the shaft. I used the vice grips to hold the flat piece above the threads steady while loosening the 14 mm nut.

Once that's off, you can pull the top mounting bracket off, the metal cup that sits on top of the protective rubber sleeve and the rubber sleeve.

When putting things back together, my low profile floor jack maxed out before it would lift the bucket high enough to match up with the other bolt holes. I found a couple of pieces of wood and stacked them on top of the floor jack and that did the trick.

When putting things back together, the bolt for the spring bucket did not want to go all the way back through, would go 75% then run into a problem because the foward side holes would not line up.

I found that pressing in hard on the rear half of the brake rotor with my right hand and tightening the bolt with my left hand worked really well. That pushed the assembly in enough for the foward side holes to line up.
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Old 03-26-2010, 07:04 PM   #44
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More .02 to add.

Rear Springs - Getting the main bolt back in was a PIA until I realized that I could tap it in with a hammer most of the way and when the holes didn't line up exactly, even with the jack holding up the bucket, I used by right hand to lift up on the lower control arm and my left to tap the bolt in the rest of the way.

Getting the rear shocks off was pretty easy, lifting up on the bottom part of the shock and compressing it some made it easier to get off. Be careful taking off the two 12mm nuts at the top. I was a bit careless and managed to strip one. Harbor Freight had the kit for removing stripped nuts and it worked great.

Front - must have spring compressors - I used ones I found on Amazon.com for $40. Look exactly like the ones in this thread. They work great, easy to use, sturdy and safe, requires a 19mm socket.

The OP suggests creating more room to get everything out after all the bolts are out by putting the stock jack between the top of the upper control arm and the fender. I HIGHLY recommend doing this. The fender will not be damaged as the jack pushes the upper control arm down rather than pushing the top into the fender. There is an edge or lip behind the fender liner that runs along the arc of the fender. That lip goes perfectly into the notch of the jack. No need to pull the liner out, just peel the liner back a bit to see it and then eyeball the position of the jack. As you open up the jack, just watch the upper control arm and when it looks like it's reaching its limit of movement, stop. That will give you plenty of room to get the assembly out.

here's a pic

Before pulling the assembly out, you might want to zip tie the speed sensor line to the anti-sway bar so it stays out of the way. Or you could simply remove the 12mm bolt holding it in place and zip tie it up and out of the way.

I angled the bottom of the assembly towards the front and just lowered it out. Be sure to keep a steady hand / eye on the speed sensor line. Very easy to get hung up on it.
I would move the assembly a few inches, check that line, move a few more, check it again, etc till it was all out.

Once out, if you can find something stationary that the forks of the shocks will fit around, you can use that as leverage when removing the top bolt.

Lucky me the fencing out back was a perfect match.

Putting the top nut back on, I used a combination of small vice grips holding still the unthreaded top tip and a 17 mm wrench. I only tightened it enough to stay on. Even after everything is installed and you go to tighten the top nut, the shaft will still turn so I used the same process at the end when I fully tightened it down.

When assembling, before putting the spring compressors back on, line everything up the way it's going to have to go back in including the rubber seating under the top mounting bracket.

I checked the position of the bolts in the mounting plate at the top against the holes they go into and the position of the speed sensor line holders and the shock forks. THEN put the spring compressors on and bias their placement towards the outside. Straight across from each other they tend to run into too little space once inside the fenderwell.

This was a fun project. I did it myself. I left plenty of time in case I ran into snags. I allocated time on Saturday for the rears and Sunday for the fronts.

Two days later I got a 4 wheel alignment. Shop said that they had to max out the back camber adjustment but that its in spec.

Drop is noticeable, sorry no pics, ride seems same but handling definitely tighter.

Last edited by lbz; 03-26-2010 at 07:16 PM.
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Old 12-19-2015, 05:08 PM   #45
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Bumps to the top so I can find you again.
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