Tokico shocks settings
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I just received my Tokico D-SPEC shocks and probably will install them within a few weeks... I was wondering what most people with these shocks set them to?
0 being the hardest
7 being the softest
(this is sortof how the manual has it listed)
I was thinking of putting it on 3. (3 full turns from HARDest).....
Aslo post what springs you are using with these shocks. Thanks!
0 being the hardest
7 being the softest
(this is sortof how the manual has it listed)
I was thinking of putting it on 3. (3 full turns from HARDest).....
Aslo post what springs you are using with these shocks. Thanks!
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#2
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If you want a lower car springs are the way to go. However, if you want a car that handles better, don't lower it as it is already down there. The best cheap thing you can do for handling is a bigger swaybar.
Sportcompactcarweb did some mods to get 1G on the skidpad. Its in the wheels, tires etc. section somewhere. Well worth reading if you want some solid direction on handling.
Sportcompactcarweb did some mods to get 1G on the skidpad. Its in the wheels, tires etc. section somewhere. Well worth reading if you want some solid direction on handling.
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I have RSR springs and first had my front at 4 and rear at 3. It was a little rough so I adjusted the rear to 3.5. There was a very slight difference but I'm too lazy to jack up my car again and readjust. I have a G35 and so at these settings, they ride rougher than stock. For a 350Z, these settings might be similar to stock or a tad bit firmer. I dialed my rear in a bit stiffer to decrease understeer.
Tips: On the rear, when you tighten the two bolts that attaches the upper shock mount to the chassis/wheel well of the car, make sure you torque it between 21-26 ft-lbs(Nissan spec says 21 ft-lb for a G35). I torqued one too tight and broke the bolt. It costed me $250 to repair it because the bolt is welded on to the chassis and there is no way to access it from the inside of the car. They had to cut around the bolt, and weld a new one on. For the front, I recommend removing the bolt on the upper A arm. It'll make removing the shock and spring easier.
Tips: On the rear, when you tighten the two bolts that attaches the upper shock mount to the chassis/wheel well of the car, make sure you torque it between 21-26 ft-lbs(Nissan spec says 21 ft-lb for a G35). I torqued one too tight and broke the bolt. It costed me $250 to repair it because the bolt is welded on to the chassis and there is no way to access it from the inside of the car. They had to cut around the bolt, and weld a new one on. For the front, I recommend removing the bolt on the upper A arm. It'll make removing the shock and spring easier.
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so seems 4 is a good setting all the way around...
Thanks
so would it be a bad idea to use a air tool to torque down the suspension parts?
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so would it be a bad idea to use a air tool to torque down the suspension parts?
Last edited by 350ZOWNZ; 12-08-2004 at 06:44 AM.
#11
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Whoa wait a minute, oem G35 coupe shocks are a lot softer then oem 350Z shocks, so it's totally natural for a G coupe owner impression's of "like stock" to be drawn on a totally different scale. One that a 350Z owner should not use. They will say it's firm or too firm a lot sooner then someone installing the same shocks into their Z.
That being said, I've driven a sedan with the 350Z D-specs on with oem G coupe springs. Set at 4 the D-specs are definately NOT as stiff as oem 350Z shocks (and I have oem 350Z shocks on my car). Though at that setting they are a tad firmer then oem coupe/sedan with sport shocks. Which is exactly what the owner wanted. Also, may sound silly, but before the shocks were installed, we were about to use 3 turns off of full soft. I noticed that when I mashed down on the D-spec piston shafts and compressed the shocks with my hands that they were not even as stiff as the oem sport shocks comming off the car, no where near as stiff as my own oem 350Z shocks when I've done the same thing. So we changed the shocks to 4 turn's from full soft. Still when you pushed the piston shaft's down into the shocks, they were not as stiff as the oem 350Z shocks.
That being said, I've driven a sedan with the 350Z D-specs on with oem G coupe springs. Set at 4 the D-specs are definately NOT as stiff as oem 350Z shocks (and I have oem 350Z shocks on my car). Though at that setting they are a tad firmer then oem coupe/sedan with sport shocks. Which is exactly what the owner wanted. Also, may sound silly, but before the shocks were installed, we were about to use 3 turns off of full soft. I noticed that when I mashed down on the D-spec piston shafts and compressed the shocks with my hands that they were not even as stiff as the oem sport shocks comming off the car, no where near as stiff as my own oem 350Z shocks when I've done the same thing. So we changed the shocks to 4 turn's from full soft. Still when you pushed the piston shaft's down into the shocks, they were not as stiff as the oem 350Z shocks.
#12
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Originally posted by AznIceRckt
what are the detriments of going with the stiffest setting? i just picked up a set of d-specs, and my g35 sedan has tein high tech springs.
-phil
what are the detriments of going with the stiffest setting? i just picked up a set of d-specs, and my g35 sedan has tein high tech springs.
-phil
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Bringing this back up because the title was good and seems to have some good stuff in it.
Looking at this thread and this one https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....ico+adjustment
It looks like people run everything from 1 to 5 (from full hard). I just installed a set of these shocks with Tein S-tech springs and went with 4 from full hard all the way around. Is this still what people consider a good starting point? Anyone with this combo have anything different to add now that they have been around a while?
Chris
Looking at this thread and this one https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....ico+adjustment
It looks like people run everything from 1 to 5 (from full hard). I just installed a set of these shocks with Tein S-tech springs and went with 4 from full hard all the way around. Is this still what people consider a good starting point? Anyone with this combo have anything different to add now that they have been around a while?
Chris
#18
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When I got them on my fronts and rears were 5 turns from full stiff, it was waaaay too soft. It was like somebody pulled off my swaybars.
Now I'm on full stiff with Swift springs, little bounce over uneven roads however not as bad as oe dampers. It's definitely firmer than stock but without the harsh bouncing.
Now I'm on full stiff with Swift springs, little bounce over uneven roads however not as bad as oe dampers. It's definitely firmer than stock but without the harsh bouncing.
#19