Installed Cusco A-arms
I ordered some Cusco A-arms from Z1 Performance. I was very please with the quality of the product.
I had Kinetix adjustable a-arms in the car already. They just made too much noise. Almsot so much, that I thought my front end was going to fall apart.
Here are pics of the old Kinetix arms.

Here are the new arms!!
I jacked up the car, placed it on jack stands, and removed the wheels. (loosened the wheels on while the car was still on the ground)
Since I have the Nismo s-tune, I had to remove the struts in order to remove the a-arms. The spring gets in the way of the bolt holding the a-arms on. If you have a coilover setup, you probably won't have to remove the strut. I also had to remove my strut bar to get to the strut top.
With the wheel off, here are the bolts that need to be removed.
Arms go back in reverse order of the removal.

I am very happy with the arms. Now off to the alignment shop to get it all in place!!
I had Kinetix adjustable a-arms in the car already. They just made too much noise. Almsot so much, that I thought my front end was going to fall apart.
Here are pics of the old Kinetix arms.

Here are the new arms!!
I jacked up the car, placed it on jack stands, and removed the wheels. (loosened the wheels on while the car was still on the ground)
Since I have the Nismo s-tune, I had to remove the struts in order to remove the a-arms. The spring gets in the way of the bolt holding the a-arms on. If you have a coilover setup, you probably won't have to remove the strut. I also had to remove my strut bar to get to the strut top.
With the wheel off, here are the bolts that need to be removed.
Arms go back in reverse order of the removal.

I am very happy with the arms. Now off to the alignment shop to get it all in place!!
Thanks for the install directions. Please let us know how well they ride for you. I'm thinking about ordering a set, but I'm kinda hesitant due to them being so new. I just dont want another Kinetix issue where people discover that they are noisey later down the road.
Hey SJ,
Thanks for the pics. I got my arms in today but I couldn't read the directions (they're in japanese, I think).
Couple of questions:
1. what torque specs did you use for the 2 main bolts that connect the arm to the car and what did you use for the allen screws on the slide adjustor?
2. did you grease the joint?
al
Thanks for the pics. I got my arms in today but I couldn't read the directions (they're in japanese, I think).
Couple of questions:
1. what torque specs did you use for the 2 main bolts that connect the arm to the car and what did you use for the allen screws on the slide adjustor?
2. did you grease the joint?
al
Originally posted by al503
Hey SJ,
Thanks for the pics. I got my arms in today but I couldn't read the directions (they're in japanese, I think).
Couple of questions:
1. what torque specs did you use for the 2 main bolts that connect the arm to the car and what did you use for the allen screws on the slide adjustor?
2. did you grease the joint?
al
Hey SJ,
Thanks for the pics. I got my arms in today but I couldn't read the directions (they're in japanese, I think).
Couple of questions:
1. what torque specs did you use for the 2 main bolts that connect the arm to the car and what did you use for the allen screws on the slide adjustor?
2. did you grease the joint?
al
For the two bolts that connect the arm to the car, the thing is if you have coilovers or not. If you have the room to get in there with a torque wrench, I believe the spec is in the mid 40's. ( all of the specs on the sheet I got have a 10lb range ) I can double check this when I get home. Also, with the busings these arms have, you need to tighten the arms up in the position they will be sitting. If you tighten them the way my pic shows, they will eventually stretch out. So, if you don't have the room for a torque wrench, a box end/open end will work. (a long one)
For the allens, I tighten them before I put them into the car. I used the stock setting on the arms. To tighten them, I used a 6mm T handle allen wrench. Since I couldn't read the instructions, (incase of torque specs) I tightened them up a bit more than snug. I got em pretty tight.
The joint is pretty much identical to the stock setup. I didn't grease it. Looks like it's already done by cusco.
Trending Topics
Originally posted by Pedal Pusher
Thanks for the pics and info. We are all waiting for your report regarding noise and anything else you learn about these arms.
Thanks for the pics and info. We are all waiting for your report regarding noise and anything else you learn about these arms.
I am getting the instructions translated right now to clarify some concerns I have.
From the looks of it, these arms have SET settings. A stock setting, a setting that goes +4mm, -4mm, -8mm, and -12mm. So, I am not sure if there is the ability to "fine tune" the camber so they match up on both sides. For my car, once I put the s-tune kit in, my camber was off from side to side. The plate has 6 screws. However you set up one of these settings, 2 of the screws seem to be used to secure the setting. If you were to use only 4 of the screws, it would be fully adjustable. I just don't know if that is what you should do if you need to adjust a "tad."
Once I get the translation back, I'll be sure to post.
Originally posted by kzshin
Geeze, look at the difference between products from top Japanese suspension/racing product company and Kinetix. That CUSCO A-arm looks so nice, makes that kinetix unit looks like junk.
Geeze, look at the difference between products from top Japanese suspension/racing product company and Kinetix. That CUSCO A-arm looks so nice, makes that kinetix unit looks like junk.
Here's another thread about the Cusco's and the last entry has a translation of the data sheet that comes with the arms.
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....hreadid=108312
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....hreadid=108312
I have these but haven't installed them yet. Hopefully you guys can answer a couple questions for me. Can the alignment shop adjust these after they are installed or do they need to be adjusted before I put them on? It looks like I won't be able to access the set screws once they are in place. Anyone have any data on how much each location (+4, -4 , -8, -12) affects the camber?
I pulled this off of the Northern California portion of the weboard.
(Adjusting Instruction)
The main arm is adjustable.
4mm from basic position to positive side
4mm,8mm,12mm from basic position to negative side.
(References of numbers)
chamber will change 30' each 4mm (measured by our company)
! caution ! camber's angle will change at each vehicle's height and body/
! warning ! Ball joint knucle will fall down if take all bolts off.
Please loosen and slide the bolt which is atached on long hole.
From the picture from the left top down...basic position....negative 4mm....negative 8mm...negative 12mm... Right top....positive 4mm
For the newbies, what does that translate in degrees of camber adjustment?
(Adjusting Instruction)
The main arm is adjustable.
4mm from basic position to positive side
4mm,8mm,12mm from basic position to negative side.
(References of numbers)
chamber will change 30' each 4mm (measured by our company)
! caution ! camber's angle will change at each vehicle's height and body/
! warning ! Ball joint knucle will fall down if take all bolts off.
Please loosen and slide the bolt which is atached on long hole.
From the picture from the left top down...basic position....negative 4mm....negative 8mm...negative 12mm... Right top....positive 4mm
For the newbies, what does that translate in degrees of camber adjustment?
Moving to the positive side would add positive camber so it's capable of 0.5deg of positive camber from stock and -1.5deg negative from stock. Not what lowered Z's are looking for.
Originally posted by 2 low Z
Only 0.5 deg positive?? Bummer that's about a 1/4th of what I need. Thanks.
Only 0.5 deg positive?? Bummer that's about a 1/4th of what I need. Thanks.



