Ultimate Suspension set up for the street?
That's a tough question, and I'm sure you'll get 50 different answers.
However, I personally recommend a simple shock+spring combo, and some adjustable sway bars. Keep it simple. No threaded, adjustable coilover suspension is needed for a street setup unless you have money to spend. 
But anway, here's my personal answer:
I went with Koni shocks, RSR springs, and Hotchkis adjustable sway bars. The RSR springs keep the front spring rate roughly the same, but make the rear a good amount stiffer to counter understeer. The Koni shocks are very easily rebound adjustable, letting you fine tune it. I have them set to 25% right now, and it's great. Setting the Hotchkis sways to medium in the front and soft in the rear results in a net roller stiffness transfer to the rear, which should help with understeer a little more.
On the twisty back roads, this setup is much, much better than stock. The stock suspension would get floaty and loose feeling. Not very confidence inspiring. This suspension feels solid and planted. I might even soften up the shocks to 0% (full soft) just for a comparison.
To be honest, the shocks are probably more important than the springs. If you don't want to lower the car and just want to improve handling, try getting just the shocks and sway bars first and see if they make you happy. If you want to lower the car or reduce understeer more, get some springs like the RSR sets.
However, I personally recommend a simple shock+spring combo, and some adjustable sway bars. Keep it simple. No threaded, adjustable coilover suspension is needed for a street setup unless you have money to spend. 
But anway, here's my personal answer:
I went with Koni shocks, RSR springs, and Hotchkis adjustable sway bars. The RSR springs keep the front spring rate roughly the same, but make the rear a good amount stiffer to counter understeer. The Koni shocks are very easily rebound adjustable, letting you fine tune it. I have them set to 25% right now, and it's great. Setting the Hotchkis sways to medium in the front and soft in the rear results in a net roller stiffness transfer to the rear, which should help with understeer a little more.
On the twisty back roads, this setup is much, much better than stock. The stock suspension would get floaty and loose feeling. Not very confidence inspiring. This suspension feels solid and planted. I might even soften up the shocks to 0% (full soft) just for a comparison.
To be honest, the shocks are probably more important than the springs. If you don't want to lower the car and just want to improve handling, try getting just the shocks and sway bars first and see if they make you happy. If you want to lower the car or reduce understeer more, get some springs like the RSR sets.
I can vouch for this combo as well. The lower center of gravity from the RSR's 0.6" drop does help, as will a set of forged wheels and wider rubber. I used Volks and Michelin A/S (my Z is a year-round daily driver), but my setup is a lot like Joe's, and I can tell you that it's both comfortable and stable. My passengers couldn't really tell the difference, but it's a whole new ball game from the driver's seat.
as far as coilovers go....the HKS LS +.....they are adjustable height and 30 way adjustable dampning. they are very comfortable for daily driving yet can be set up to be aggressive for tracking....and no noise
Originally posted by Road Warrior
as far as coilovers go....the HKS LS +.....they are adjustable height and 30 way adjustable dampning. they are very comfortable for daily driving yet can be set up to be aggressive for tracking....and no noise
as far as coilovers go....the HKS LS +.....they are adjustable height and 30 way adjustable dampning. they are very comfortable for daily driving yet can be set up to be aggressive for tracking....and no noise
Originally posted by Z33
I can vouch for this combo as well. The lower center of gravity from the RSR's 0.6" drop does help, as will a set of forged wheels and wider rubber. I used Volks and Michelin A/S (my Z is a year-round daily driver), but my setup is a lot like Joe's, and I can tell you that it's both comfortable and stable. My passengers couldn't really tell the difference, but it's a whole new ball game from the driver's seat.
I can vouch for this combo as well. The lower center of gravity from the RSR's 0.6" drop does help, as will a set of forged wheels and wider rubber. I used Volks and Michelin A/S (my Z is a year-round daily driver), but my setup is a lot like Joe's, and I can tell you that it's both comfortable and stable. My passengers couldn't really tell the difference, but it's a whole new ball game from the driver's seat.
The fronts are easy, since the adjustment is done at the top; just pop the hood and do it (mine are set to 50%). I haven't tried the rears, but they are accessible from the side without dismounting anything, although unless you're a contortionist, you may need to jack it up.
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the hks ls+ are easy to adjust in the rear too!! if you have a spoked wheel, you just reach through, and there is an adjuster on the side of the shock, near the bottom. if you have mesh wheels, like me, you have to lay on your back and reach up behind the wheel.
Chad
Chad
Originally posted by protocav
the hks ls+ are easy to adjust in the rear too!! if you have a spoked wheel, you just reach through, and there is an adjuster on the side of the shock, near the bottom. if you have mesh wheels, like me, you have to lay on your back and reach up behind the wheel.
Chad
the hks ls+ are easy to adjust in the rear too!! if you have a spoked wheel, you just reach through, and there is an adjuster on the side of the shock, near the bottom. if you have mesh wheels, like me, you have to lay on your back and reach up behind the wheel.
Chad
Originally posted by G3po
ANy idea what the "least" below OEM the LS+ can drop. For example can you run OEM height?
ANy idea what the "least" below OEM the LS+ can drop. For example can you run OEM height?
Chad
Originally posted by G3po
Can you adjust the Konis (I assume yellows) mounted and wheels in place? Or is a wheel removal and/or shock mount removal required?
Can you adjust the Konis (I assume yellows) mounted and wheels in place? Or is a wheel removal and/or shock mount removal required?
Originally posted by jreiter
Like Z33 said above. The front is super easy: just open the hood, and you've got a simple **** you turn on the top each shock. The back is easy also, but with the car sitting on the ground the rear wheels are in your way. So, you just have to jack up the rear enough to make room for your arm to reach the dial. That's it.
Like Z33 said above. The front is super easy: just open the hood, and you've got a simple **** you turn on the top each shock. The back is easy also, but with the car sitting on the ground the rear wheels are in your way. So, you just have to jack up the rear enough to make room for your arm to reach the dial. That's it.
on my coilovers i merely reach through the stock rim and turn the **** on the rear dampner even with the car on the ground....and the fronts are even easier...you could do the whole car in less than a minute.
Originally posted by Road Warrior
man, jacking up the car to me is not what i would consider "easy" for adjusting your rear shocks.
man, jacking up the car to me is not what i would consider "easy" for adjusting your rear shocks.
I adjusted my Konis this weekend, and it took me less than 5 minutes. I was at my friend's house when I did it Saturday, and when I was starting he said he'd run in and grab some beers for us and then help out. I was done by the time he came back outside. He was very surprised. I think he was expecting something more complicated.I have a floor jack, so it's super easy. You don't have to lift the rear wheel off the ground, and you don't have to remove the wheel. You just need to widen the gap between the tire and the fender enough to get your arm through. A few pumps on the floor jack and it's up. Twist the dial on the shock, drop the jack back down. Repeat on the other side. Easy cheese.
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