hawk hps, goodridge lines, ate superblue
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From: Rochester, NY
hawk hps, goodridge lines, ate superblue
well, initial impressions are: less dust than stock, 95% as quiet (aka ONCE when coming to a stop i heard a tiny squeal) decent initial bite, FAR better fade resistance, slightly improved pedal feel.
lines were a bit of work to install. nothing horrible, but not for the faint of heart imo - if you have never done brake lines before, be prepared for odd routing (with 2x "bulkheads" that hold the front lines in place as brackets) as well as the stock lines being stubborn to remove -- DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS WITHOUT FLARE WRENCHES. PERIOD. I had shitty parts-store ones (from Advance Auto) since I was at my buddy's house, and lets just say I had to resort to Vice Grips (thankfully on a part that was NOT going to be reused, the stock line going into the front right caliper was rounding off).
quick summary of steps:
after jacking up the car / supporting it, removing the wheel etc..
1) un-bolt two 12MM nuts holding the front lines to the strut and the steering knuckle. I had to impact them off as they were bending the stupid brackets before they'd budge.
2) un-bolt the small metal bracket with rubber liner that the stock hard line goes through. IF YOU FOLLOW MY METHOD YOU WILL REUSE THIS!!
3) loosen the line at the caliper itself. 10MM Flare - or if you are crafty / lucky / shady you can often put two 10mm open-ended wrenches on top of each other -- the main problem is smaller single non-flare stuff WILL want to round off the hardware as iirc stock stuff is brass.
4) loosen the line at the hard-to-rubber bulkhead. make sure to keep the hard/car end clean
5) remove the 'clip' that holds the bulkhead together. goodridge provided clips which were TOTAL CRAP (too lose) so I just cleaned up the stock ones, worked GREAT.
6) screw on new line to bulkhead (torque to 12-24 ft-lb iirc).
7) route line, paying attention that the stainless line won't rub against anything it could wear though (for example wheel speed sensor cable etc). been there, seen that on a friend's car, not cool.
8) use the 2x copper washers and supplied Banjo bolt to afix the brake line to the caliper.
9) do pads now if you need them
10) put everything back together and bleed it.
lines were a bit of work to install. nothing horrible, but not for the faint of heart imo - if you have never done brake lines before, be prepared for odd routing (with 2x "bulkheads" that hold the front lines in place as brackets) as well as the stock lines being stubborn to remove -- DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS WITHOUT FLARE WRENCHES. PERIOD. I had shitty parts-store ones (from Advance Auto) since I was at my buddy's house, and lets just say I had to resort to Vice Grips (thankfully on a part that was NOT going to be reused, the stock line going into the front right caliper was rounding off).
quick summary of steps:
after jacking up the car / supporting it, removing the wheel etc..
1) un-bolt two 12MM nuts holding the front lines to the strut and the steering knuckle. I had to impact them off as they were bending the stupid brackets before they'd budge.
2) un-bolt the small metal bracket with rubber liner that the stock hard line goes through. IF YOU FOLLOW MY METHOD YOU WILL REUSE THIS!!
3) loosen the line at the caliper itself. 10MM Flare - or if you are crafty / lucky / shady you can often put two 10mm open-ended wrenches on top of each other -- the main problem is smaller single non-flare stuff WILL want to round off the hardware as iirc stock stuff is brass.
4) loosen the line at the hard-to-rubber bulkhead. make sure to keep the hard/car end clean
5) remove the 'clip' that holds the bulkhead together. goodridge provided clips which were TOTAL CRAP (too lose) so I just cleaned up the stock ones, worked GREAT.
6) screw on new line to bulkhead (torque to 12-24 ft-lb iirc).
7) route line, paying attention that the stainless line won't rub against anything it could wear though (for example wheel speed sensor cable etc). been there, seen that on a friend's car, not cool.
8) use the 2x copper washers and supplied Banjo bolt to afix the brake line to the caliper.
9) do pads now if you need them
10) put everything back together and bleed it.
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