Hi guys I want to make this short and sweet. I have the Tanabe NF 210's on my car i have the 17" rims, they are advertised as 1.2 drop front and back, id say more like 1.5 after it settles but i didnt messure it. I am on my stock tires and the back look like there is some good amount of wear to it. I wanted to know what the cheapest route i could go with is? I saw kinetix rear camber arms for 199 now on the site they say anything lower then 1.5-2" should get there camber arms and there traction package http://www.kinetixracing.com/index.a...WPROD&ProdID=4 to adjust the toe. Do i need it? or could i just do the camber arms for 199? money is tight so i need to do this as cheap as possible, also any shop recomendations in so cal that i can take this to and have it installed and corrected? san diego perferably if not LA will do.


thanks, also i may buy front A arms to adjust the front camber but i need to look at the wear pattern on them.


Thanks for the input guys.

 

looking for the answer too...

 

SPC camber arms and toe bolts will correct the rear camber and toe without issue and without affecting caster like the "Toe" arms available from Kinetix. Price for both shipped is $220 from www.iapdirect.com Cusco A Arms are available to correct the front camber for $400 shipped from www.z1-auto.com

 

nice thanks alot.

 

the SPC kit, is it the lowest price on the net?

 

I believe $220 shipped for both the camber arms and toe bolts is the cheapest price I have ever seen.

 

Link: http://www.iapdirect.com/item.asp?invid=622

 

the heck with it. Just ordered it. hehe. THanks for the info bro.

 

I have both the IAP larger eccentric bolts and the Kinetix camber/traction rods. I would also reccomend just getting the SPC camber/toe bolt kit....

 

why front camber kit is more expensive than rear???


how necessary is the front camber kit???

coz i usually rear camber kit on sales rather than front...

 

Why do you "NEED" a camber kit?

 

so the wheels won't look like " / \ "???

 

or \ / ????

 

Well they look like that stock for a reason...

The reason why the Z handles so well in the corners is its negitive camber...

If you make it more like | | then you get the cornering of a mustang with a bumpier ride... You will get a better 0-60foot launch though.. But the Z is not made for that.. Its made to tackle corners...

Negitive camber look is the sign of an aggressive corner carver...

If Inner Tire Wear is of concern then you will have to get your camber to 0, but then your cornering will be horrible...

See this thread for your answer to inner tire wear...

https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-suspension-diy/137762-how-to-rotate-staggered-directional-tires.html

Save your self some $ on camber kits and pre-maturely trashed tires and read that thread...

If you are not one to carve the corners and are one for drag racing... Then going to a 0dgree camber in the rear will help your launches and overall grip on launch...

other wize, IMHO... Camber Kits are a waste of money...

Unless you are getting front upper control arms to make for more negitive camber (3-4 depending on tires) to get even better cornering...

 

thanks for giving me this valuable info!

most importantly, i can get away from those $$ camber kit...

 

so bottom line if:

1. You don't drag racing
2. You drop your car more than 1.5"

Then get a rear camber kit?

 

Um I think that not getting a camber kit to look like a corner carver is the most ridiculous thing I have heard. I dropped my car well over 1" and the result was -2.0+ degrees of camber. Maybe on a race car that works but for someone who wants more then 10000 miles out of their $300 a piece tires that camber is ridiculous. Stock spec camber is -1.5 degrees. The car handles perfectly with that camber and that what these arms allow you to do. With the stock camber arms the best I could get was -2.0. Furthermore with that much of a drop and adjusting camber as much as you do toe is going to murder the tires. The stock eccentric bolts don't have enough adjustment travel on them to correct that. Toe will kill your tires faster then bad camber. With these camber arms and toe bolts I got my rear set perfectly -1.5 degrees of camber and zero toe. I've had my tires for 14k miles and they are wearing beautifully. AND my car handles like its on rails. Some of the best money I spent was on these arms and toe bolts.

 

I think he mean if:

1: You don't drag racing

Why bother getting a camber kit??

 

rite...

im not saying to "Look" like a corner carver... but your car WILL...

You went back to stock camber, so you spent all that money to get an extra thousand miles out of your tires...

Thats all...

 

For those of you who didnt purchase the SPC camber arm and Toe bolt kit this is for you:

SPC Camber/Toe bolts cost $90 - $100: http://www.iapdirect.com/item.asp?invid=785

Heres the same bolts for $25: http://www.prosuspension.com/product...roducts_id=439 (One kit adjusts both rear wheels)

add $5 for shipping. I ordered mine 2 minutes ago. SPREAD THE WORD!!!

I couldnt believe 2 bolts, 4 washers, and 2 nuts could cost $100. I'll take actual pics of them and post them up when I get them. Maybe we can compare the actual SPC bolt to mine.