Is the rear camber/toe adjustble on the stock suspension?
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From: so cali 909-951-626
you can stay within factory tolerances even if you are lowered 1.2", as proven here on andy's car for the rear.... Again, it's not going to be the best toe and camber, but it's still within factory tolerance. Usually, anything lower than this, we recomend purchasing rear camber and toe bolt kits, such as SPC, JIC, Stillen ETC....
Originally Posted by SnakeBitten
Thanks...Which kit did you use... Oh Lawd camber and toe kits are expensive.
Originally Posted by Tony@Performance
you can stay within factory tolerances even if you are lowered 1.2", as proven here on andy's car for the rear.... Again, it's not going to be the best toe and camber, but it's still within factory tolerance. Usually, anything lower than this, we recomend purchasing rear camber and toe bolt kits, such as SPC, JIC, Stillen ETC....
Originally Posted by Tony@Performance
you can stay within factory tolerances even if you are lowered 1.2", as proven here on andy's car for the rear.... Again, it's not going to be the best toe and camber, but it's still within factory tolerance. Usually, anything lower than this, we recomend purchasing rear camber and toe bolt kits, such as SPC, JIC, Stillen ETC....
I just installed the eibachs on the rear with the SPC camber arms and toe bolts. Now I've got the front eibachs to install. Do you have any tips for doing the fronts?
Remove the lower control arm from the front member and unbolt the sway bar link to the control arm as well, remove strut tower brace, remove brake and abs lines, unbolt the bottom of the strut then the top and it will fall out, Just watch you abs wires when you pull it out and don't let it just fall out if you know what I mean.
Thanks,
Now when you say remove the lower control arm from the front member, do you mean the inboard connection point or the connection point where it attaches closer to the wheel? And yes, I'm not very knowledgeable about suspension systems. I did get the rear components on, but they seemed much less complicated. My local shop will install the front springs for $120.00 plus the allignment. I like doing this stuff myself if I can, but there is a point where you need help.
Now when you say remove the lower control arm from the front member, do you mean the inboard connection point or the connection point where it attaches closer to the wheel? And yes, I'm not very knowledgeable about suspension systems. I did get the rear components on, but they seemed much less complicated. My local shop will install the front springs for $120.00 plus the allignment. I like doing this stuff myself if I can, but there is a point where you need help.
Last edited by scott west; Jan 26, 2006 at 09:47 AM.
Actually no, I'm roughly 190lb and was able to compress the spring with one hand and put the nut on the mount. I normally would not recomend this but I have put springs on about 6 Z and all were the same as for the spring recoil.
OK, now i have the strut and spring off the car and i'm turning the nut thinking it will release the spring, but no, after I turned several turns, it started turning the whole screw that it's attached to. So you're saying that I can compress the spring and get the nut off that way? I tried to get a spring compressor but it was rented out.
Originally Posted by MIAPLAYA
SPC camber arms and toe bolts are $220 shipped from www.iapdirect.com
Woah...Thanks for the info man...I was told $800+ for Stillen camber and Toe kit...Just couldnt justify paying that kind of money for it so I scratched the Eibachs off the list...They are now back on the list
I appreciate the info from everyone else as well...Thanks




