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Time to Change Brembos. Options?

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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 05:57 PM
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Default Time to Change Brembos. Options?

Okay well the dealer told my brother that he needs to change his front rotors, pads and rear pads. He also said that the rear rotors are starting to go, so might as well change it all at the same time.

I went to MVPmotorsports.com and their prices seemed to be better than the dealers on the Brembo stuff.

MY QUESTION IS: Do i HAVE to go with Brembo rotors? What are the rotor options?

Are the hawk pads good? I ran those on my bimmer and they were pretty good for regular driving. No Dust
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 07:44 AM
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Another one who’s scared of dust…

No you don’t have to go with Brembo rotors. Search around, plenty of options available.

What’s the thickness of the front and rear rotors now? These should last a while. How many miles on the brakes? Auto tranny?
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 08:14 AM
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i went with centrip chp slotted rotors and hawk hps pads...for the setup i paid i was happy...stopping power also increased
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Kolia
Another one who’s scared of dust…

No you don’t have to go with Brembo rotors. Search around, plenty of options available.

What’s the thickness of the front and rear rotors now? These should last a while. How many miles on the brakes? Auto tranny?

Who the hell said anything about dust? I'm looking for an inexpensive option that won't scarfice performance.
My BMW's brakes are the dustest pads out there but they stop the best at high temps.--> i don't mind dust for better performance.

The Infinit dealer said the rotors need to be chaged, they are deep scared. If i change the pads at home, i obviously can't grind them down.
We also bought the car preowned so we have no idea if the previous owner changed the rotors before. Although the car only has 30K on it.

Manual transmission although i don't see how that matters...
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 09:36 AM
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You mentioned “No Dust” so I jumped on that !

People seem to be changing their pads around that mileage. I have 25k but since I swap pads for the track, the original pads still have plenty of life left in them.

If the rotor thickness is still within specs, no need to replace them. You don’t turn rotors either when you change pads. It might take longer for the pads to settle in, but the added ridge on the surface will actually increase your contact area.

If the brakes pulsate, if you (your bro) has some brake judder issues, turning the rotors will help on the short term. But since you then reduce their heat sinking characteristics, the problem will return pretty soon. Spending money to have the discs turned and then again to replace them a month after is not a good option IMO.

Cars with auto tranny are more prone to have brake judder issues since you have to stay on the brakes each time you stop. Pads then stick to the rotors and mess up the surface and voila, pulsating brakes.
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 07:13 PM
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Get Stoptech 2-Piece Aero rotors. The are expensive for the first go round, but replacements are cheap since you don't have to replace the hat.
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Kolia
You mentioned “No Dust” so I jumped on that !

People seem to be changing their pads around that mileage. I have 25k but since I swap pads for the track, the original pads still have plenty of life left in them.

If the rotor thickness is still within specs, no need to replace them. You don’t turn rotors either when you change pads. It might take longer for the pads to settle in, but the added ridge on the surface will actually increase your contact area.

If the brakes pulsate, if you (your bro) has some brake judder issues, turning the rotors will help on the short term. But since you then reduce their heat sinking characteristics, the problem will return pretty soon. Spending money to have the discs turned and then again to replace them a month after is not a good option IMO.

Cars with auto tranny are more prone to have brake judder issues since you have to stay on the brakes each time you stop. Pads then stick to the rotors and mess up the surface and voila, pulsating brakes.
i knew that turning the rotors down decreases the mass which would increase the temps. that the rotors see. But, i was always told that the rotors need to be turned down at LEAST every other brake change and when they became excessively rigid.

DO i understand you correctly? Can anyone else support this claim?
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 03:21 AM
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you dont have to turn them every brake change...if they are warped then go ahead...usually people will turn them to get the pads to mate up better...and brake shops will tell you to turn them so they can get you back to their shop faster to replace those lean rotors...don't fix it unless its broken
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 04:28 AM
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Originally Posted by WestCoastRiot
i knew that turning the rotors down decreases the mass which would increase the temps. that the rotors see. But, i was always told that the rotors need to be turned down at LEAST every other brake change and when they became excessively rigid.

DO i understand you correctly? Can anyone else support this claim?
Excessively rigid? You mean hardened by the repeated heat treatments?

I don’t see that as being bad to a rotor. Having a harder surface should actually increase the life span of the rotor. I don’t know for sure, it’s just a guess at this point.

Fatigue will eventually get the best of the rotor, showing fine fractures everywhere (like my rotors now, but they’ve been tracked with full race pads, so I was expecting it.). Turning a rotor would not “heal” it at this point.

Modern rotors have very little extra thickness in them. They might be turned once in their life time, but no more. Think how many more miles you could have done wearing the rotor “naturally” instead!

Like SpeedRcr said, if it’s not broken, don’t fix it.
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Kolia
Excessively rigid? You mean hardened by the repeated heat treatments?

I don’t see that as being bad to a rotor. Having a harder surface should actually increase the life span of the rotor. I don’t know for sure, it’s just a guess at this point.

Fatigue will eventually get the best of the rotor, showing fine fractures everywhere (like my rotors now, but they’ve been tracked with full race pads, so I was expecting it.). Turning a rotor would not “heal” it at this point.

Modern rotors have very little extra thickness in them. They might be turned once in their life time, but no more. Think how many more miles you could have done wearing the rotor “naturally” instead!

Like SpeedRcr said, if it’s not broken, don’t fix it.
Well let me tell you what the symptoms are, the car is still in San Diego right now.

When the car is rolling there is a squeek, when he presses the brakes the squeek stops (thats the weird part). he took the car to the dealer and they said he NEEDS new pads and rotors up front and rear pads. They wanted $2200 for 4 rotors and all pads so he felt. Im looking for options here and i dont mind changing them for him.

I have found some pretty inexpensive alternative to the brembo brands, i just want to make sure i am getting qaulity here
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