slackjaw

iTrader: (2)

Okay, I upgraded to Gooridge SS brake lines and put on new pads (Axxis Ultimates) now it's time to bleed. I am a little confused as I keep reading conflicting information. The Nissan service manual say the bleed order is:
1. Rear Left
2. Front Right
3. Rear Right
4. Front Left
but I have always been tought that you should bleed farthest from master cylinder to closest
1. Right Rear
2. Left Rear
3. Right Front
4. Left Front
Which way is correct?

Also, the factory Brembos have two bleeders per caliper. Do I do the idside or outside first? I know alot of you guys have done this before and your help would be greatly appriciated.

Kolia

iTrader: (2)

Taken from the technical manual:


No comments on inner vs outer valve. I'd say inner first.

slackjaw

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, I did all that and still have a mushy pedal. I found that my outside LF bleeder nipple is heavly corroded. I can't even get fluid to come out of that one. Looks like I'll have to take it in to the dealer and have it taken care of. At least I got the SS lines and pads installed.

tekk

the ESM for my G35C (04.5 6mt/brembo) says Rear Right -> Front Left -> Rear Left -> Front Right.
I'm not sure about the differences between inner and outer.

I did SS lines, pads, rotors, fluid. After the fluid change, at first my brakes felt good but after some driving some mush came back. I just bled them again today- just a little all around. SO far so good, but I'll know for sure tomorrow morning when I go for my drive.

tekk

so i bled my brakes again on saturday afternoon.
overall the brakes feel better. the pedal is less mushy- but there's still a tiny bit of softness present, after which it bites well, so i'm happy (or at least, happier).

im thinking that there may still be air bubbles in the caliper somewhere. im not sure where the air bubbles may be or how i will get them out... i guess i have my work laid out in front of me.

superchargedg

iTrader: (4)

since your bleeding the brakes anyway,take out the clogged bleeder valve get a paper clip or something steel about the same size and clean out the hole in teh bleeder.take some compressed air and blow it out and then bleed them normally.

tekk

which brake cylinder? i assume the caliper? could you clarify please? thanks

StopTech

Im pretty sure he meant caliper. We recommend tapping the caliper body to disoldge any trapped air bubbles and get a better bleed as well.

houseofheil

I just did the same procedure...I replaced rotors, pads, lines, and fluid.
Going against the service manual, I bled the brakes from RRear, LRear, RFront, LFront.
I also bled the inside nipple first, then the outside nipple. Seems to work fine.
I followed brake bedding procedure, and the car stops great.

HOWEVER: Now my BRAKE, SLIP, and VDC OFF lights are on and won't go off?!?
The fluid is inbetween the MIN and MAX lines.

I don't understand why the lights are on??

Does anyone know?

Kolia

iTrader: (2)

Check your ABS sensors at the wheels.

tekk

do you tap the caliper while the valve is open and fluid is leaving?
or do you tap it right before you open the valve?

slackjaw

iTrader: (2)

Well, I finally got the brakes bled correctly this time. Problem was my friend who was helping me bleed 'em said I shouldn't pump the brakes too fast as it would "bubble-up" the fluid in the system so he was pumping the pedal fairly slow. I went back to re-bleed the system the Nissan way (LR,RF,RR,LF) and had my wife pump the pedal much faster for about 10-15 times each then bled off each caliper first outside valve then inside. I had to clean out the bleeder valve on my LF w/ a safety pin and that fixed it. Everything's perfect now. Also, tapping the caliper will bring out some trapped air for sure.

tekk

a few questions:
1. does the ignition state matter during bleeding? ie should i be in engine on, start, acc, or off?
2. so you have to pump the pedal fast several times before you open the valve?
3. do you tap the caliper with the valve open and fluid leaving? or with the valve closed, right before you open it?
4. about how many timse did you need to open the valve/ caliper?
5. once you bled the inside, did you go back to the outside once more or leave it?

BeerViper

Hey hoh ... someone over at g35driver had this same problem ... all they had to do was fill the brake fluid reservoir to the max line and the lights went away.

BeerViper

I picked up a set of SS Sport Lines from Grubbs and had them installed last night at GS Motosports (here in North Texas). I brought along a liter of ATE Super Blue high temp brake fluid to bleed all four OEM BREMBO calipers through after changing out the lines.

We ended up using the full liter of fluid to bleed the lines and make sure there was no air. The car stops well but the biggest thing I notice is that the pedal height is much lower than it was.

What can I do to get the pedal height back up if I'm sure there is no air in the lines? I have a track event this weekend at the Motorsport Ranch in Cresson TX which is why I wanted to get the lines and fluid done ... hopefully I don't have anything to worry about!

slackjaw

iTrader: (2)

1. Put the ignition in the OFF position. (Cars w/ power brakes should be off when bleeding brakes)
2. Yes, get it nice and firm then hold it to the floor.
3. Tap while the valve is open and you can see the trapped air bubble out in the tube.
4. Two or three. If you get air bubles then bleed until it goes away, then close the valve, bleed again to make sure you don't have anymore.
5. I bled my outsides first then the insides. No, I left it alone after it was bled.

J Ritt

iTrader: (4)

Slackjaw's pretty much got it covered. Some additional thoughts, hints, and tips:
1. We use a two person system for bleeding. The person at the pedal pushes the pedal and says, "pressure"...the person at the wheel end opens the bleed screw...when the pedal gets to the floor, the pedal person says, "down." They hold the pedal down until the person at the caliper says closed. Then they release pressure on the pedal...reapply pressure, and start the cycle over. This is a good way to stay in sync and not let any air get back into the system. After every inner and outer, recheck your fluid level.
2. Always, always, always put something under your windshield wiper telling you to tighten your lug nuts. We have a laminated piece of paper that we take to the track that reads, "Bleed Brakes, Torque Lug Nuts." As soon as the car is lifted, the paper goes under the windshield wiper, and remains there until all four wheels have been torqued. You would be AMAZED at how many times people are in a rush to try things out and forget to tighten bleed screws, bleed an inner or outer (they'll do one but not the other on a given caliper), or not torque their wheels down...any one of these can cause problems ranging from mildly not good to complete disaster.
3. After your done with a given bleed screw, spray out the tip of that bleed screw with brake cleaner. If you leave a little bit of fluid in the tip, it can get dirty and be drawn into the caliper, contaiminating your nice fresh fluid.
4. When starting a bleed on a given bleed screw, I usually open the screw and give a few steady pumps to move a substantial amount of old fluid out...3 or 4 pumps usually does the trick. Then you go into the bleeding routine with your helper as I describe above.
5. Don't use brake fluid that's been sitting around opened for months...it absorbs water. When you open a bottle of brake fluid, write the date on the bottle with a sharpie. Our rule of thumb is to only use something roughly a month old or newer after it has been opened. We're a bit **** though.
6. Position your wrench so that you're only turning the bleed screw about 90 degrees. You don't need to turn it any more than that, and the bleed screw will end up dirty and on the floor if you crank it out too far.
7. Always use a clear bleed tube so you can see the air bubbles.

J Ritt

iTrader: (4)

BeerViper,
It really sounds like you still have air in your system. Are you absolutely certain that you didn't drain your resevoir completely dry? That's really the main reason as to why you would have a longer pedal. The system is closed loop, and fresh brake fluid is not compressible. You're just moving fluid from one place to another. Air (and boiling water) are compressible however...hence the longer pedal. You may have to bleed again. Some of that air may not unfortunately come to the fore until you heat the system up and work it over a bit.

EnthuZ

iTrader: (2)

GREAT advice on bleeding brakes.

Jeff, I have a question on your answer to #3 though.

"3. After your done with a given bleed screw, spray out the tip of that bleed screw with brake cleaner. If you leave a little bit of fluid in the tip, it can get dirty and be drawn into the caliper, contaiminating your nice fresh fluid."

How can the tiny bit of fluid remaining in the bleeder be drawn back into the caliper if the bleeder is only opened while the fluid is pressurized? I usually just wick away the bleeder fluid with a rolled up paper towel. More to prevent it from boiling & discoloring the powder coat on the caliper than anything else. Yes, I'm **** too!

BTW...got the A-Arms. Should be on within a month.

BeerViper

Yeah that's what I'm thinking as well is that there must be air in the lines still ... there's really no other explanation. Thanks for the advice!