I am trying to do my suspension research and learn, but let's face it. You suspension guru's have forgotten more than I know on this.

I am seeking suspension advice; specifically, spring rates and what kind of feel out on the track (road course) different rates provide? I was reviewing coilovers here for dual street & track duty (I don't mind a rough street ride for a decent track setup). It would only need to be that way for a couple years until I get some cards and bills paid off to then be able to buy a tow vehicle and trailer.

I have been researching the threads here and of course everyone has their personal preferences to match their driving styles and how they like their cars to feel. But one thing that someone said in a thread here that stuck with me was that he liked the Buddy Club coilovers since they had a slightly softer spring rate in the rear. He said that a softer rear spring rate allowed his rearend to feel more planted and not feel so "twitchy" and that it allowed him to put the power down sooner in the apexes. This is the type of input/advice I am looking for.

My budget can barely afford coilovers the first time around so I am really trying to avoid the "trial and error" approach and wanting to understand how different spring rates and suspension/coilover options will affect my ride feel out on the track -- if that is possible.

Should sway bar be done at the same time? Should they be done first? Are the stock bushings sufficient or should I be looking for polyeurthane bushings (or polygraphite to reduce the squeek if anyone makes them for the 350Z)?

Thanks!
Tom

 

Don't mean to not answer your question, but, sounds like you know your goals. I would pick a couple of different options and talk to the manufactures. Then once you have narrowed the field down, throw them up on the forum with your goals and then people can tell you their experiences on different set ups. That may work better.

 

You pretty much have no choice but to get coilovers since you want stiffer than stock springs. Most of the good coilovers (Tein, Zeal, HKS, JIC) can accomodate spring rate changes without needing to be revalved.

So, for example, if you buy a set of Tein Flex, and you find you want a slightly softer spring, you can buy just the spring and have a whole new feel to the setup.

I would start with some Hotchkis swaybars and take the car to the track first before you dump big bucks on coilovers. It will handle nicely.

 

Thanks! I didn't know that you could swap springs (to vary the spring rates within reason) with coilovers. That makes sense. Cool!

I have Driver Ed. gigs lined up in April, May, June and July so far. Two to three days in each month. April's and May's will be "AS IS." I got my 2003 Track Ed. Z used two months ago in January. I don't know the PO, but my Z has a NISMO cold air intake, cat-back exhaust and a short-throw shifter. It feels "torquey" even in 6th, so I don't know if PO did anything in the rear (3.9 final drive, R-tune LSD, etc.) or if all Z's are like that?

For those who track their Z's, what coilovers and spring rates do you recommend? What suspension component upgrades should I focus on researching and getting? Since I don't have a wad of cash just burning a hole in my pocket, what order should I "trickle" these mods in at?

From my research, I think I want to focus on:

• coilovers
• front a-arms (Cusco, 350Evo, etc.) for camber adjustments
• sway bars (Hotchkis)
• polyeurthance bushings? (who makes them for the Z?)
• of course then wider wheels and tires, which brings up a good side-bar question: what front & rear tire sizes do those who track their Z run with and what brand tire? I'll be running my stock Rays with 225/45/18 & 245/45/18's squeeling like a pig on Christmas eve through every corner! What wheel widths and offsets(?), but I guess that's another question for a different forum and more research to do.

I was told that the stock rear will support up to -1.5 degrees camber. From experience are there any rear suspension components I should also research/consider?

Thanks for your insight and help.

Take the pebble from my hand. I cannot...

 

If you want to be fast on the track, put your money into two things. 1) Good Tires. 2) Entrance fees to track events. No bolt on part will every mean as much as good tires and track time.

IMO, don't bother with A-arms. Get some Hotchkis sway bars and Tien, JIC, or HKS coilovers when the time is right for your budget.

As for wheels, there are some good choices available. I would stick with 18's instead of 19's to keep tire costs and weight down. I run Enkei NTO-3 wheels 18x9.5 front and 18x10.5 rear with 265/35/18 and 295/35/18 tires. Offsets are +27 front, +30 rear. They fit PERFECT. Rota just released some NISMO copies in 18x9.5 all around for a good price.

 

umm JIC coilovers are more suited for track use than everything you've listed...
you sacrifice streetability (well i street too but i think in philly u gotta becareful lol cuz of potholes)
imo if u get the JICs u probably can skip the sways until further notice because these are pretty incredible to begin with!
from a race instructor's tip to me on the coilovers - dont get aftermarket bushing unless its 100% track use lol

 

What tire brand do you run with those sizes (265/35/18 & 295/35/18)? The only R-compound that I found that matched front and back are Pirelli PZero Corsa. Those offsets will clear my brembo's? I thought someone told me to run 265's and 295's I would need to run -1.5 degrees camber so there would be no clearence issues, thus looking into those a-arms. Maybe I misunderstood.

 

I run Bridgestone KD's. You can fit a 275 in the front, but you might get more oversteer. These offsets fit great and clear my Stoptech brakes easily. If you lower your car about 1" you will have 1.5° of negative camber or more. I have no clearance issues at all.

 

are there no manufacturers that make higher rate springs that fit the OEM suspension? if there were you could get adjustable koni's and buy the springs that have the balance that suits you (assuming there are several to choose from).

 

They probably don't because the stock shocks are not valved to handle stiffer springs, so you would end up with worse handling if you went stiff springs, stock shocks.