Slotted vs Drilled
06-29-2006, 01:57 PM
#41
How about some 2006 stock brakes? I've seen some deals on them with barely any miles. They are 1" bigger or so on all 4 corners. Those and some good pads would be great for less money.
I hope you're not planning on running skinnies in the front. Those destroy your stopping distances on heavy cars.
I hope you're not planning on running skinnies in the front. Those destroy your stopping distances on heavy cars.
06-29-2006, 02:06 PM
#43
? for X drilled 14" rotors..
i've been to buttonwillow w/ Pagid Oranges on the ST40s.. and did several triple digits slow downs repeated throughout the day... i check my brakes quite regularly, and i find no signs of cracking or fatigue on my X drilled rotors.
how much temperature fluxuation are we talking about for X drilled rotors to see adverse affects? i do remember doing cool down laps after each session...
i've been to buttonwillow w/ Pagid Oranges on the ST40s.. and did several triple digits slow downs repeated throughout the day... i check my brakes quite regularly, and i find no signs of cracking or fatigue on my X drilled rotors.
how much temperature fluxuation are we talking about for X drilled rotors to see adverse affects? i do remember doing cool down laps after each session...
06-30-2006, 02:08 PM
#44
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Cheston,
When you're going as slow as you are, you aren't going to notice much difference between slotted and drilled...**ducks and runs***
Seriously, just give them time and some more track days and they will start to crack around the holes. You'll probably also start to see concentric grooves developing. They can withstand quite a beating though. I used to show up at track days with all sorts of cracks in my rotors, but they were all in the center of the rotor, and not a big deal. People were like, "man, shouldn't you replace those!?!?!" Once the cracks are out on the edge, or down at the hat attachment and you can hang a fingernail in them, then you need to get some new iron.
Here are some rotors of ours that went the full 25hrs. of Thunderhill...these are sort of what mine looked like when I took them off:
Your other option Cheston is to just let me drive the car for a few laps...I'll do them up right for you with that turbo setup...
When you're going as slow as you are, you aren't going to notice much difference between slotted and drilled...**ducks and runs***
Seriously, just give them time and some more track days and they will start to crack around the holes. You'll probably also start to see concentric grooves developing. They can withstand quite a beating though. I used to show up at track days with all sorts of cracks in my rotors, but they were all in the center of the rotor, and not a big deal. People were like, "man, shouldn't you replace those!?!?!" Once the cracks are out on the edge, or down at the hat attachment and you can hang a fingernail in them, then you need to get some new iron.
Here are some rotors of ours that went the full 25hrs. of Thunderhill...these are sort of what mine looked like when I took them off:
Your other option Cheston is to just let me drive the car for a few laps...I'll do them up right for you with that turbo setup...
07-04-2006, 12:18 PM
#47
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I have drilled and slotted, but not by choice. AP only offers the 4 piston F & R with 13" drilled and slotted only. So far, no issues with cracking or non-performance. Just the normal low speed squeal.
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