Rant: I hate these things. http://www.mcgard.com/index.php/auto...ocks/cone-seat. Whichever idiot owned my car before me fitted these. Then they torqued them to the hilt. Now I'm trying to change the brake pads, managed to remove three, but the 4th was so tight that it shattered the key. This is the second time. I had a RAV4 a while ago that I had to send to a specialty shop to get the things removed. These are the worst things ever invented. End rant.


So far I've tried to hammer an impact socket onto it, but the stupid nut has a spinner on the outside that just turns freely. Tomorrow I'll see if I have a big enough stud remover and see if I can drill a hole in the middle of the nut to use the remover. Fingers crossed.


If anyone has any other ideas I'd appreciate it.


Of course, the pads I haven't been able to replace are the ones that squeak

 

I stripped a hex head lug nut recently. Reached into my tool chest for a lug removal socket and impact gun... within 30 seconds, it was off. (The offending lug is still trapped in the socket.....too lazy to vise and remove it)

Not really sure what you mean by "but the stupid nut has a spinner on the outside that just turns freely." but if this is the case, how would you EVER get the nut off?? This is misleading or I'm just being obtuse....

In any event, don't remember exactly where I got my lug remover (I think I bought the set one day out of boredom but may actually have "inherited" it from the shop I was managing - a major chain store service dept - when I was helping get through a backlog and had to remove a full set of McGards from a truck then just threw the sockets into my roller box....)

Pretty sure this was the set: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lug-Nut-Remo...-/350224749746

Good luck!

 

The McGard locks I have look like the tuner ones in your link, but the only part that spins in the washer part on the seat of the nut. Is that what you're describing? If you can grip the outside of the nut, you should be OK, or order another key. I torque mine to spec, and haven't had any problems.

 

This is one that I managed to get off before the key shattered. The grey band between the chrome top and bottom is not part of the main body, but spins if you manage to get a grip. I can get sockets on it but they just spin.

Hence, MicVelo, I doubt that the remover would work, even if I ordered and waited the two weeks. Will go by the store on Monday to see if they have a solution or another set with the right key, else I have a date on Wednesday with the dealer to replace the bearing on that corner anyhow, so I'll let them have the headache


dcains, trust me, get rid of them now, while you can. Invest in a good alarm with a shock/tilt sensor instead.

 

Just to balance this thread out, I've had good luck in using McGard wheel locks for almost 12 years. I attribute this to doing most of the work on my Z myself, and not exceeding the factory recommended 85 ft/lb torque specs when torqueing in my own wheels. Haven't had any problem with protecting either my Rays or BBS wheels, and no issues with getting the McGard lugs off either.

Sorry the OP has had such a difficult time with his...

 

Me, too, and it's tough to find nuts and locks to fit and look good with my LMGT4's.

 

Key point to note is that you do all your own work yourself. What broke the first set on the RAV4 was likely a mechanic with an impact wrench.


When I took off the first three I knew I was in trouble, as all the nuts were over 100 lbft. Somebody probably put them on with the impact wrench too. They are fragile and I won't use them.


Thanks for all the comments.

 

Wow, that's rough...

I dunno, I've used McGard many times over the years without an issue but I guess when you have a monkey with an airgun.....,

 

Used them on many cars no issues ever.

 

Can you post a pic of the shattered key?

 

wait, let me get this straight, youre blaming a perfectly fine, well made product, because you/someone that has access to your car, misused it???

 

Yes, it's a free band around the nut. Prevents use of the nut removal tool, which anyone can buy.

 

It's my opinion that it's not well made. Why, is illegal to have an opinion? Why the gun? Do you work for McGard?


I also blame the ******* that over torqued them. But this is not the first time I have had problems with this brand - if you read above you'd've noted that. One time, perhaps it's human error. Twice, there's something wrong with the design.


Came across this video on removing them, and thus spend an hour with two sets of drill bits. Got a hole 1/4" deep by 1/4" diameter. Nuts are hard! Plan was to drill deep enough to engage a stud remover and use that to break the nut free. Gave up and dropped it off at the dealer, since I have an appointment for them to replace the bearing on that axle. Let them have the fun... no doubt I will pay thru the nose...

 

Soooooo out of the hundreds of thousands, possibly millions, of mcgard user, you are going to blame the product because you used it wrong? Torque spec for our car is 85lbs. Thats is IMPOSSIBLE to break these nuts at that spec.

Dont blame the product your you using it wrong. I use mcgard and have no issue. My girls 350z uses mcgard, no problem. Theres 5 people on here who have chimed in that they have no problem with mcgard.

It appears that someone is using it wrong and wants to blame a product. Infact give me ANY set of lugs, and i bet i can mess them up by using them incorrect.

Failure to read directions will lead to product failure. Thats pretty common sense.

 

Whatever. Clearly I personally used it wrong. Goodbye.

 

OK, now I get it. Wondering if the "band" can be cut off with a cutting wheel or dremel since it's a free floating ring. Slice it it up one side, down the other then remove with a lug remover.

I know it's moot since you're having the dealer do it but for future reference by anyone else facing the problem....

 

I'd go at that spinning band with my air hammer and a point chisel. Then I'd unscrew the security nut with a nut extractor like from an Irwin Bolt Grip Set after dousing the lug bolt with penetrating oil. You'll probably need to replace the lug bolt, but that's easy.

Another idea: Grind the chrome off the top of the security nut and weld a 1/2" or 5/8" nut to it. Should screw right off.

 

This is what I was thinking the entire time, my Mcgard locks worked perfect. In the instructions it says not to torque them past a certain amount. I never had issues and will use them in the future.

I lost the key to mine though. I hammered 21mm sockets onto them and they came off like a charm. Probably wont work for OP since they were torqued to 100+ft lbs

 

RWD,
I had that style last. Seems like drilling may work, but I wood try calling McGard and explain the situation. Follow up with faxing the bill of sale and title. If the orig buyer registered the locks, that and the vin should get you a new key or 2.
gl

 

My keys are in my tool box. 100% chance of knowing EXACTLY where it is at all time!