The instructions cover this aspect of the installation with a fair amount of detail. SPC also offers great tech support at 800-525-6505. They are very helpful and patient with our customers. Let me know if we can help in any way.

 

yea my cars dropped pretty low, probably around 3+ inches. i'm not really sure what and where hub mount is. and what does whicker mean? sorry. thanks

 

(posted this on g35driver also)
ok i tired installing just the arms. and it's been a disaster. the problem came when i was putting pressure on the rubber ball joint and the thing like "smashed" or "shrunched". but in the pic in the write up the rubber thing held up. is it suppose to smash? then as i'm trying to un-shrunch it the whole rubber thing comes off along with the gold ring that held in on the joint. and all the grease is everywhere. AND the red rubber thing now has a small rip in it. seriously wtf!
the thing shrunched

red thing off and ring off, and rip.

 

I have no idea what you did. Eek

Will it pop back on? You seem to be having more issued than I did. Pack it with grease and put it back on. Maybe SPC can send you another one.

With a +3 drop, I think you need the shims. You will have to remove the brakes and rotors and then the 4 bolts that fasten the hub to the steering knuckle.

"Whicker" was a mistype of "thicker." The thicker part of the shim goes at the top to where the hub bolts onto the steering knuckle.

 

Please contact me on this. The balljoint boot will "smush" up depending on the way you have it in. As for it going back on, it will definitely reinstall just fine. PM me if you have any questions.

 

I'm having a hard time deciding if I need these because it almost looks like I have a feathering issue in the front (early 2003 model) instead of a camber issue. I might have both though?

Really Dumb Question: So as far as the person doing the alignment...how do they get into the fenderwell to adjust the bolt for the camber?

 

Is it possible for you to give me a call? I would like to discuss this with you.

888.672.0066

 

Once on an alignment rack you should be able to reach up underneath. At least I know that's how it's done on the SPL's. If you have to take the wheel and spindle off then that's going to take a lot longer.

 

That's what I was afraid of.....a very lenghty alignment process. I can't even see the top of that bolt (to adjust) when the car is on the ground...so I'm assuming the car would have to either be raised up or the wheel taken off. But that just means the car will have to resettle again once raised up.

At this point, I'm considering just raising the front of the car up. It's dropped right at 1" right now in the front, but it has extra weight up from the TT setup...it should be dropped 0.56", but like the said...extra weight is bringing it down to 1" of drop.

 

It is not necessary to take the wheel off to do the alignment. The alignment equipment mounts to the wheel in order to align the vehicle. I have seen vehicles slammed to the ground where the aligment was still performed, this being done as the vehicle is on the alignment rack but raised in the air. Let me know if you have any other questions.

 

Good write up.

 

but do you have enough space to adjust the adjustable A arm without taking the wheel off?

 

^ probably not since, your car is dropped. i didn't have enough room.

 

My alignment guy didn't have to take the wheels off to adjust the a-arm. I guess he did it in the air and lowered it to check it. I didn't see him.

 

theres no change in the front camber.

I don't think your alignment guy even touched the new A arm becuz it was in spec before alignment anyway.

 

Where did you get the front rotors and caliper brackets?

 

Can you believe that my buddy and I eyeballed the alignmant in the garage? I was surprised we were so close.

I got the rotors and caliper brackets from a friend who had them made by Fast Brakes. It was a one off deal that I think they were devoloping but got little interest. They work awesome and are each 6.5 pounds lighter than the OEM Brembos.

 

if im just planning on installing the a-arms onto a 350z that has been lowered with tananbe gf210's....will i need to remove the strut and spring assembly?...or can the a-arm just be removed and switched out?

 

anyone?

 

No doesn't look like you have to remove anything. The A arm sits independent of the strut assembly. Look at Gilley's install. He never touched the struts/springs. He did have to loosen it to work around it but the strut assembly (w/ springs) stays intact.