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Front BBK rotora/Ap/stoptech? re-use front...

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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 09:20 AM
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Default Front BBK rotora/Ap/stoptech? re-use front...

There have been a few posts about this. I want more stopping power, but am on a real tight budget. I was initialy under the impression that stoptech and AP were king, some tell me that rotora is a good kit, (i like its price) what will happen with the 06 rear brakes (since they are bigger than other years) if i just do a front kit. Will i burn through pads like no tomarow, could i find away to put the fronts on the back. (never seen or heard of it being done. Why throw away great brakes. Any impressions of rotora.
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 09:31 AM
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 09:34 AM
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Just the fronts are bigger? hm, well what is stoping me from finding a way to put the stock fronts in the rear, and a BBK up front, it seems too obvious to do this, even if i had a 500 dollar bracket cut by a machein shop it will still be cheaper.
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 09:38 AM
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the e-brake wouldn't work. Inside the rear rotor hat is a drum style system that works as our e-brake...the front rotors do not have the ability to do this.
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 10:23 AM
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Bigger diameter rotors just increase the mechanical advantage [just reduces the required pedal pressure [10% greater radius = 10% few pounds of foot pressure necessary].

Heavier [thicker or larger diameter] increase the mass so a 10% greater mass will increase temperature 10% less........A 22 pound rotor will be 10% cooler than a 20 pound rotor specifically if a 20 pound rotor increases 150F in a stop a 22 pound rotor will only go up 135F.

None of these things will reduce street stopping distances which are primarily a function of the tire softness and how soon the brake system ramps up to full friction.............ABS software is set to match oem tires to allow some number before ABS cuts in..............changing tires can change stopping distances.

Straight ahead ABS ACTIVATION is BAD because each time the braking is shut down for 1/5 of a second..........4.4 feet [at 60 mph] can go by while the ABS resets.

Winter [cold areas] are problematic because tires have less friction as the tire and road temperature drop..........important to understand the plasticization point of the tires you are using as more and more and more ABS interventions occur as the temp drops. [especially with Summer Tires].

If you disable the ABS you will see that oem brakes can easily lock the tires at any speed up to 80 mph assumming you apply enough pedal pressure.

Oem brakes have 1.8-2.2 times the HP rating [pound ft torque] of the engine how they stop in 3 seconds vs acceleration time to 70 mph.
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Q45tech
Bigger diameter rotors just increase the mechanical advantage [just reduces the required pedal pressure [10% greater radius = 10% few pounds of foot pressure necessary].

Heavier [thicker or larger diameter] increase the mass so a 10% greater mass will increase temperature 10% less........A 22 pound rotor will be 10% cooler than a 20 pound rotor specifically if a 20 pound rotor increases 150F in a stop a 22 pound rotor will only go up 135F.

None of these things will reduce street stopping distances which are primarily a function of the tire softness and how soon the brake system ramps up to full friction.............ABS software is set to match oem tires to allow some number before ABS cuts in..............changing tires can change stopping distances.

Straight ahead ABS ACTIVATION is BAD because each time the braking is shut down for 1/5 of a second..........4.4 feet [at 60 mph] can go by while the ABS resets.

Winter [cold areas] are problematic because tires have less friction as the tire and road temperature drop..........important to understand the plasticization point of the tires you are using as more and more and more ABS interventions occur as the temp drops. [especially with Summer Tires].

If you disable the ABS you will see that oem brakes can easily lock the tires at any speed up to 80 mph assumming you apply enough pedal pressure.

Oem brakes have 1.8-2.2 times the HP rating [pound ft torque] of the engine how they stop in 3 seconds vs acceleration time to 70 mph.

What spacificly does this have to do with my question, im sure i missed something, But i did not need to know any of this thank you for opening my eyes to it, i did not know the exact technical data, my quaestion more so pertains to using just a front BBK. but what im concerned with is heat ressitance on the track, the 06 stock brakes only stop a few feet longer than the factory brembo's, i want a BBK for track, so my brakes dont fade at repeated stops above 120. It seems reusing the front brake has too many obsticles, if i do a BBk in the front only how do you think the car will react to it.


Please respond to this i keep reading what you posted and i cannot draw one thing that has to do with my initial ?/ i keep saying this to people i ask a ? and get an answer that does not even begin to answer me. In this case iv allready learned that its not a good idea to re use the front, now the only ?'s left were how do these three comanys compare, and can i use the stock rear with a new pad, and perhaps a rotor. Im not trying to be mean....dont take offence to this.....in this case what you said was interesting.

Last edited by Drift_corners; Oct 30, 2006 at 11:20 AM.
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Q45tech
None of these things will reduce street stopping distances which are primarily a function of the tire softness and how soon the brake system ramps up to full friction.............ABS software is set to match oem tires to allow some number before ABS cuts in..............changing tires can change stopping distances.
so are you saying that upgrading to a BBK will not benefit a street driven car? I'm interested in this too as after I changed rims/tires I noticed a decrease in stopping power and it takes a little longer to stop. I was hoping a BBK would bring me back to stock or better levels under normal driving conditions.
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 11:54 AM
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Its not about that, the stocks only stop less than 8 feet shorter than the brembos you will have better bite for sure, but thats not where its at with BBK. when you start to stop from 100 120 150 over and over, youl feel it. im sure with a 14 inch 6 piston kit you could do a few 150 to 50 stops before you feel fade, with my stock brakes if i stop from 145+ instant fade, and it only gets worse as the calipers glaze over, and the fluid in the lines boils. The whole point of a bbk is to increase the surface of the pad to help stop faster and deal with heat better
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Drift_corners
There have been a few posts about this. I want more stopping power, but am on a real tight budget. I was initialy under the impression that stoptech and AP were king, some tell me that rotora is a good kit, (i like its price) what will happen with the 06 rear brakes (since they are bigger than other years) if i just do a front kit. Will i burn through pads like no tomarow, could i find away to put the fronts on the back. (never seen or heard of it being done. Why throw away great brakes. Any impressions of rotora.
If you are looking for stopping power, not brake fade resistance then you want to lay down more rubber to the road. Quicker stopping is only increased by increasing the friction between you car and the road, this literally translates into wider tire and increased contact patch. Brake upgrades serve to decrease brake fade/squishy brakes after hard repeated use. The stock brakes are more than adequate for 2 or 3 hard stops repeatedly, but after that, the upgrade would be necessary to maintane brake ability
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 12:03 PM
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Yeah i allready am doing tires and wheels 18x9.5 30 offset all four corners i dont know wheather to do 275/295 but thats in anouther post. i want to be able to rotate so i was thinking 275/275 but then someone brought up tire profiles not working. i still need to figure that out. I want more power, and fade ressitance, i use my brakes over 120 every single day, when i go a bit faster i get fade, i want fade to go away. For all intensive puroses jut assume i need a BBK for whatever reason my ?' is simpily would it be a bad idea to re use the stock rear. Now im looking at willwod. 14 inch 6pot front and 4 pot rear. i know why i need a bbk, and i know why they are better, i know what they do......... i dont know if i can re use the rear, thats what im after. .
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 12:24 PM
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a properly designed BBK will work just fine with stock rears - AP, Stoptech, Brembo, Endless and others all take the stock rear into account when designing and building their kits
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 12:27 PM
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hows willwood i like the price 14 inch 6pot
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Skrilla
If you are looking for stopping power, not brake fade resistance then you want to lay down more rubber to the road. Quicker stopping is only increased by increasing the friction between you car and the road, this literally translates into wider tire and increased contact patch. Brake upgrades serve to decrease brake fade/squishy brakes after hard repeated use. The stock brakes are more than adequate for 2 or 3 hard stops repeatedly, but after that, the upgrade would be necessary to maintane brake ability
Sorry to thread jack.....but

yeah I'm interested in more stopping power, not fade resistance since I don't track my car. laying down more rubber theoretically should give you better stopping power, unfortunately that is not always the case. I went from a 225/45/18 up front to a 255/35/19 and although there's more rubber on the road there is also more rotational mass which takes more to stop. so my braking power actually decreased.
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 12:52 PM
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u can get better more agressive pads, a bbk will also yeaild you more stopping power for sure, but it also will resist fade. for you pads..
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by DHCrocks
Sorry to thread jack.....but

yeah I'm interested in more stopping power, not fade resistance since I don't track my car. laying down more rubber theoretically should give you better stopping power, unfortunately that is not always the case. I went from a 225/45/18 up front to a 255/35/19 and although there's more rubber on the road there is also more rotational mass which takes more to stop. so my braking power actually decreased.
this is a good thread, here's my take on what you're saying

I think I know what you mean, but I would have to humbly disagree, the braking threshhold isn't from the extra weight of your tire/rim combo as our stock brakes are more than capable of overpowering 20" rims and some fat tires. The only thing different now is the pedal pressure that is required. What you said would be true only if your brakes could not lock up your new setup. Braking would not decrease based on heavy rims and tires at the limit of the rotational mass you added with our brake system, you must simply apply your foot little harder. Just about any stock brakes on the market can overpower rims and tires. Another way to put it is like this: If you can still place a complete lock on your tires, then your braking power hasn'lt diminished. Only when your brakes are unable to place a complete lock on your tires will your stopping power decrease.

With that said IMHO 19's on 255 aspect width tires are not enough to prevent our stock brakes from lockup if our ABS was deactivated, the only way to prove it would be to place those same rims on a weaker brake system to see if it works. I've seen 20's on second generation elipses that can lock those brakes and the majority of them run single piston calipers with 9.6" rotors. I would agree that with the rotational mass you have a bit more strain on your setup, which is probably exposing some possibly worns brakes.
I think you have signifigantly increase your capacity though, but that you just feel the weight of the new wheels and rims from having to apply more foot pressure.
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