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Old May 11, 2007 | 07:19 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by asp17
My OEM ones did as well for a week or so but then went away, so im hoping the same will happen this time as well. But Im overall satisfied
have you done the 20 or so initial bedding procedures from 80-20mph?
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Old May 11, 2007 | 07:23 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by jtabraham
Did you also get the zinc-ing done when you bought yours? I had the zinc coating added to mine, but I also bought a 1200 degree engine enamel I was going to spray on the rotor hat, to hold off on the rust.
yeah, they zinced the rotors before they shipped and it was a one week delay according to them. Painting the hat is good but you wouldn't be able to see the hat once the wheels are on.
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Old May 11, 2007 | 07:29 AM
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Even though you really don't see it, I want to spray it to prevent rust fom spreading in the future. I also plan on spray the fins.
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Old May 11, 2007 | 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by jtabraham
Even though you really don't see it, I want to spray it to prevent rust fom spreading in the future. I also plan on spray the fins.

great... when your rotors are finally painted, they will be more like those 300$ stillen rotors.
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Old May 11, 2007 | 07:38 AM
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I need brakes right now too and saw slotted/drilled ones from this same company. Good price for rotors/pads for all 4 corners.
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Old May 11, 2007 | 09:35 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by jtabraham
Did you also get the zinc-ing done when you bought yours? I had the zinc coating added to mine, but I also bought a 1200 degree engine enamel I was going to spray on the rotor hat, to hold off on the rust.
Mine took almost three weeks to arrive. They said the zinc process was the hold up. The rotors look great and after about eight hard decel runs from 50mph to 10mph, the zinc came off. I didn't think much about the zinc when I bought them, it was all that the vendor offered. But now, it looks nice to see the silver on the hat and vanes instead of rust. I think for the price, these are a damn good find on replacement rotors. I'll be using mine at the track in two weeks for the Nissan Sport event in Albuquerque and we'll see what happens. If they don't hold up well, it's not a huge loss. Replacing them after the event with the same R1 rotors for daily driving duties is still cheaper than if I had originally bought one set of OEM, lol.
Will
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Old May 11, 2007 | 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Ztalker
great... when your rotors are finally painted, they will be more like those 300$ stillen rotors.

You betcha! A $6 can of Duplicolor 1200 degree paint and 2 hours in the oven should do the trick
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Old May 11, 2007 | 01:29 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by Resolute
I'll be using mine at the track in two weeks for the Nissan Sport event in Albuquerque and we'll see what happens. If they don't hold up well, it's not a huge loss. Replacing them after the event with the same R1 rotors for daily driving duties is still cheaper than if I had originally bought one set of OEM, lol.
Will

WOW... let us know the outcome after your tracking event.
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Old May 12, 2007 | 03:31 PM
  #69  
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Well i got my double drilled/slotted rotors for the front and drilled/slotted for the rear. But when i replaced them i also replaced the front pads and i noticed that it sounds like its rubbing in the front right wheel? is this normal? is there a break in period for the position to be right?
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Old May 12, 2007 | 03:50 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by 1FlyZ
Well i got my double drilled/slotted rotors for the front and drilled/slotted for the rear. But when i replaced them i also replaced the front pads and i noticed that it sounds like its rubbing in the front right wheel? is this normal? is there a break in period for the position to be right?
you must complete the initial bedding procedure with your new pads and new rotors to get rid of that noise...in other words, the marriage between the two will need to be consumated. Once they have exchanged their DNAs, everything will be fine.
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Old May 12, 2007 | 04:00 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by Ztalker
you must complete the initial bedding procedure with your new pads and new rotors to get rid of that noise...in other words, the marriage between the two will need to be consumated. Once they have exchanged their DNAs, everything will be fine.
Hahaha... what is the procedure?
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Old May 12, 2007 | 04:19 PM
  #72  
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this was how i did mine....went from 60 to 20 mph for 8 to 10 consecutive runs and let the brakes cool down for 30 minutes and repeating the procedure 10 more times. There should be no squeaks or squeals after that.
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Old Jun 23, 2007 | 09:23 PM
  #73  
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I've had these slotted/drilled rotors on me Z for a while and I am pleased with its performance. Only thing that I dislike is the rust on the rotors in certain areas. They claim to be zinc coated to prevent rust but I guess rusting is inevitable.
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Old Jun 24, 2007 | 05:07 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by Phalocke
I've had these slotted/drilled rotors on me Z for a while and I am pleased with its performance. Only thing that I dislike is the rust on the rotors in certain areas. They claim to be zinc coated to prevent rust but I guess rusting is inevitable.

Really? I've only had my drilled/slotted zinc coated rotors for a month, and so far, the zinc is holding up well. No rust anywhere aside from the pad contact area (and of course that gets rubbed off during the first braking).
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Old Jun 24, 2007 | 05:45 AM
  #75  
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I have recently put the R1 rotors on with nismo pads. They seem to be working really well. (the rotors). The rear rotors are identical to the stock ones. Now the fronts on the other had are not. The surface that the auctal pad sits on is wider on the stock rotors and the center of the rotor where the vains are is much smaller. the R1 rotors vains are much wider. Thus leaving less metal to absorb heat. (This is if you are looking down into the veins from the top.) Not sure how much of a difference this makes. Anyone care to shed some light on this. I should have take pictures before I put them on the car so we can compare.
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 02:36 PM
  #76  
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That's too bad they don't sell slotted only rotors; drilling weakens the rotor and removes mass used for heat sinking.

Has anyone noticed cracking? What about performance gain over OEM?
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Old Jul 27, 2007 | 11:49 AM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by r1concepts
We do offer slotted as well. Were able to do Dimple/slot/drill. Anydesign basically.
You might need to register as a vendor to post here under your company name. I don't know the rules exactly, just an fyi.
Will
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Old Jul 27, 2007 | 05:53 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by r1concepts
We do offer slotted as well. Were able to do Dimple/slot/drill. Anydesign basically.
Do you have anything for 2006 Non-Brembo? I don't see any on your site.
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 11:06 AM
  #79  
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Photos showing the front rotor hat after 5,000 miles.

Last edited by davidv; Jul 28, 2007 at 11:30 AM.
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by r1concepts
We do offer slotted as well. Were able to do Dimple/slot/drill. Anydesign basically.
I have recently put the R1 rotors on with nismo pads. They seem to be working really well. (the rotors). The rear rotors are identical to the stock ones. Now the fronts on the other had are not. The surface that the auctal pad sits on is wider on the stock rotors and the center of the rotor where the vains are is much smaller. the R1 rotors vains are much wider. Thus leaving less metal to absorb heat. (This is if you are looking down into the veins from the top.) Not sure how much of a difference this makes. Anyone care to shed some light on this. I should have taken pictures before I put them on the car so we can compare.
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