brake pad problem
#1
brake pad problem
Hey whats up, I'm having problems with my brake pads. It doesn't seem right to me. I changed my brake pads and rotors 2 weeks ago. After 2 days I had horrible noise coming from my brakes. It was mostly when I barely pushed the pedal. I brought it to Nissan and they turned my rotors because they said I had armorall on my rotors. I must have gotten that from the carwash, because I got the tire shine. They covered it under the warranty for me though. Anyway, I got it back and it was fine for a day, and then the noise was back just as bad. I brought it to them again and they said that it actually seaped into my brake pad and re glazed my rotors. So I get to do my 2nd break job in 2 weeks next week. What do you guys think? Could it happen like that?? Has anything like that happened to anyone else? Thanks
#2
#6
everythings stock. I'm waiting for the new backing plates for the front to come in then I'm taking care of it. My dad's the manager of Firestone, ao they're going to do it. I just never heard of that. I think about how many people go to that car wash and get the tire shine. Why doesn't it hurt their brakes? Different type I guess.
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#9
Did you bed in the pads when you changed to the new rotors and pads? If you didn't they will squeek. I have a hard time believing that tire shine on the rotors would stay on there since the pads as pretty abrasive and the heat generated would most likely vaporize the tire shine.
Sounds like we need to put a sticky on this page about how to properly change pads/rotors, bleed the brakes, and bed in new pads.
Sounds like we need to put a sticky on this page about how to properly change pads/rotors, bleed the brakes, and bed in new pads.
Last edited by MoodDude; 03-31-2007 at 06:15 AM.
#10
Originally Posted by MoodDude
Did you bed in the pads when you changed to the new rotors and pads? If you didn't they will squeek. I have a hard time believing that tire shine on the rotors would stay on there since the pads as pretty abrasive and the heat generated would most likely vaporize the tire shine.
Sounds like we need to put a sticky on this page about how to properly change pads/rotors, bleed the brakes, and bed in new pads.
Sounds like we need to put a sticky on this page about how to properly change pads/rotors, bleed the brakes, and bed in new pads.
#11
Yea - you are suppose to change the brake fluid every time you put new pads on. And you must bed in new pads every time you change them too. I also like to check the master cylinder pressure release every time I change pads, this can be adjusted by the brake pedal on the Z.
To bleed the brakes:
- I still like the 2 person method for bleeding the brakes. There is only one other method I know of that has 100% guarrentee not to get air in the lines, but requires you to purchase equipment (a pressure bleeder kit).
- Take off all the wheels off the car
- Remove the refill cap and check the level, top off it low
- Bleed your brakes in order (Right rear, left rear, right front, left front)
- Install a hose/bottle combo onto your bleeder on your caliper
- Have your buddy sit in the driver seat
- Take a wrench to the bleeder screw, before opening tell your buddy to pump the brakes 3 times and then hold pressure on it. (The pumping will consolodate smaller bubbles into larger ones, thus promoting the removal of all the air in the system.
- With your buddy holding pressure on the brake peddal, open the bleeder screw 1/4 turn
- Have your buddy tell you when the pedal reaches the floor
- With his foot still on the pedal on the floor, close the bleeder screw
- Do this several times until the fluid looks clear
- Make sure to inspect the Master cylinder to ensure that it has adquate fluid throught the process.
- Make sure not to get any fluid on the rotor or pad, clean with brake cleaner if you do.
- Move on to the next caliper repeating the steps above.
To bleed the brakes:
- I still like the 2 person method for bleeding the brakes. There is only one other method I know of that has 100% guarrentee not to get air in the lines, but requires you to purchase equipment (a pressure bleeder kit).
- Take off all the wheels off the car
- Remove the refill cap and check the level, top off it low
- Bleed your brakes in order (Right rear, left rear, right front, left front)
- Install a hose/bottle combo onto your bleeder on your caliper
- Have your buddy sit in the driver seat
- Take a wrench to the bleeder screw, before opening tell your buddy to pump the brakes 3 times and then hold pressure on it. (The pumping will consolodate smaller bubbles into larger ones, thus promoting the removal of all the air in the system.
- With your buddy holding pressure on the brake peddal, open the bleeder screw 1/4 turn
- Have your buddy tell you when the pedal reaches the floor
- With his foot still on the pedal on the floor, close the bleeder screw
- Do this several times until the fluid looks clear
- Make sure to inspect the Master cylinder to ensure that it has adquate fluid throught the process.
- Make sure not to get any fluid on the rotor or pad, clean with brake cleaner if you do.
- Move on to the next caliper repeating the steps above.
Last edited by MoodDude; 03-31-2007 at 09:22 AM.
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