I have two shops now asking whether my 350Z was hit in the right rear (it hasn't) or if I hit something (I didn't) with the right rear as they cannot align the rear to the specs I had last Fall (-2.2 camber 0 toe front and -1.6 camber 0 toe rear). !!!???

Since I had it done last Fall (September) I raised the ride height .5" so I would not scrape my exhaust getting into/outof my driveway any longer and I had a TEIN EDFC installed. Everything else suspension wise components, etc. is the same. Would installing a TEIN EDFC affect any of these settings or proclude them from getting these suspension settings? I didn't think so, but I am a suspension noob.

I have a driver's ed event this weekend and my Z's alignment is all out of wack alignment-wise and I'm stress'n! I don't know, these Kinextix Racing rear traction arms aren't instilling a lot of confidence. The shops say they cannot get zero toe in the right rear and have the same negative camber setting for both right rear tires.

Any advise/insight would be greatly appreciated. Is there a better setup I should get instead and toss the Kinetix racing arms?

Thanks.


Background:
(See sig for full mod list) Last year late summer/early Fall I get TEIN Flex coilovers on and dropped the ride height pretty significantly (not a DD and I run my Z out on the track (road course) in Driver Ed. events). Local STS shop got me -2.2 front and -1.6 rear last September. Apparently no problem with close to zero toe (0.1 left rear, 0.05 right rear). But I was scrapping my NISMO exhaust a little getting into/outof my driveway (crests at the top) so I decided to raise the ride height .5" front & rear. Local STS does not corner balance so I had to take it to local Porsche tuner shop. Turned out my careful measurements were pretty spot-on and my Z was only like 10 to 15 pounds off in one corner, but Porsche shop still thought it fair to charge me the full $380 for the corner balance. Now I cannot seem to get the camber/toe settings I want when I have the adjustable components to allow for it???

 

toss em and get spc toe bolts, then you will have a much greater range of adjustability and not mess up your suspension geometry with the traction arms

 

What is the recommended toe setting I should have front and rear for road course track events?

 

Damn... now i know its the POS arms... I hve had the same issue.. they cant get my tire back into specs..

 

Can I keep my KR camber arms and just replace the KR toe arms with the spc toe bolts? Or do I need to get that whole kits with arms and toss all my KR arms?

 

I have the KR traction arms and SPC toe bolts. I kept the KR arms since they have urethane bushings. I have the shop adjust the toe via toebolt and we leave the KR arm the same length as the stock arm since it changes the caster setting.

I doubt you can sell just the traction arms by it self. You may have to sell the set and get the SPC set.

BTW: Are your traction arms set to the same length as stock?
Good Luck!

 

From what I've seen in the autox/road racing forums, the general consensus is 1/16" toe-in rear for stability and 0 toe or 1/16" toe-out front for better turn in response.

 

Yes, you can do that

 

Could the reason they are having problems this time around when STS Tire Center who did my alignment last Sept seem to have no issues with the same KR setup be because I got my Z corner balanced and technically my ride height is a little higher in the right rear?

I know what the SPC toe bolts look like, but I do not know where they go on the Z, can one of you guys with the KR & SPC toe bolts combo setup post a pic to this thread with arrows so I can see how you have yours setup and exactly what you mean? I'd greatly appreciate it.

Well STS did what they could but didn't charge me since they couldn't get even factory spec on the car (in the rear), which I did not expect and I will tip them when I get these bolts and this issue ironed out. Unfortunately, I do not think that it will be before my DE gig this weekend, which will suck. This is my first DE gig this year and I have been looking forward to this since the winter, trying to get my Z ironed out, etc. -- BUT, I'll make do and do my best with the alignment I got. I just hope it doesn't wear the **** out of my new Falken 615 tires.

Thanks for all your help. I'm a suspension noob, but I'm learning (even if it is by "fire").

 

They replace the inner bolt of the spring bucket, and the hole they go into needs to be elongated to allow for more adjustability. Its similar to the stock setup, just the bolts are more offset on the washers so when they rotate they can adjust for more toe. Decreasing your camber by raising the ride height is probably what is causing the toe to not be back in spec. You can have them increase the negative camber to get the toe in spec, but a better option is to just get the toe bolts, and and either leave the KR traction arms at stock length in place, or swap them back out for the stock radius arms and use the toe bolts as your adjustment

 

I think the pic in this thread is what I was looking for:

https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-suspension-diy/185737-spc-toe-bolt-install-write-up-with-pics-courtesy-of-protocav-3.html

Confirmation would be greatly appreciated.

 

Perhaps, but when I got my TEIN Flex coilovers installed last Fall the mechanic slammed my ride height and I barely had 4" to 4.25" ground clearence to the front splitter (from 6" when I measured before I dropped off my Z to get them installed). Now my Z has 4.75" ground clearence to the front splitter, so I am still 1.25" lower than stock. I would have left it lower if I was scrapping NISMO exhaust getting into/outof my driveway all the time.

What is the stock arm length, so I can get my KR arms set appropriately?

 

One last question: where can I purchase just the SPC toe bolts?

Thanks.