So I took my car for an alignment right when I first drop. The mechanic adjusted everything and told me to come back for a re-adjustment after the springs settle down.

Settings first trip:
Front Camber -0.7 (L) -0.4 (R)
Front Caster 8.8 (L) 9.4R
Front Toe 0.04in (L) 0.03in (R)

Rear Camber -1.6 (L) -1.6 (R)
Rear Toe 0.05in (L) 0.06in (R)

Settings second trip:
Front Camber -0.6 (L) -0.5 (R)
Front Caster 8.9 (L) 9.8R
Front Toe 0.05in (L) 0.02in (R)

Rear Camber -1.5 (L) -1.6 (R)
Rear Toe 0.38in (L) 0.18in (R)

So after the second trip, I gave them a spec sheet for the nominal settings along with the specs I wanted (listed below). Obviously, they didn't do much within an hour so I complained about the $105 and gave my money back. I'm just gonna go to a specialized alignment shop. Its only been over a week so I don't think my tires are taking a toll but I do like "perfection" like most of us.

So from the threads I've searched here, I'm gonna go for the following specs then get a reading of my tires after going after a couple laps. I'm on tokico dsp-9s and eibach sportline springs. I want to reduce understeer, handle better on turns and still maintain my tires. What do you guys think? Would I need more toe out in the back?

MY IDEAL SETTINGS:
Front Camber -1.6 (L) -1.6 (R)
Front Caster 8.17 (L) 8.17 (R)
Front Toe 0.04in (L) 0.04in (R)

Rear Camber -1.2 (L) -1.2 (R)
Rear Toe 0.075in (L) 0.075in (R)

 

Do you have some type of aftermarket adjustable suspension for either front or rear?

 

+1, expecting a perfect alignment without adjustable a-arms and a rear camber kit(preferably SPC) is kind ridiculus since the front camber isn't even adjustable.

 

Yes I have SPCs all around. I got so furious that I forgot to mention that. Apparantly, the tech works within an hour schedule since they have appointments then tells me I'm all within factory specs.

 

If you have adjustable arms all around, then definetly take it to a specialty alignment place, preferably one that will let you sit in the driver's seat so the camber settings are set correctly for your normal driving weight/height

 

Redlude97 pretty much summed it up for you. So far as toe, it doesn't need to be out. You need to get it at 0. Which should be no problem with the kit you have.

 

actually your toe should be in slightly for the front and rear because the suspension pushes back while its moving, thats why nissan specs it with toe in. If you have zero static toe, you have toe out going 60mph

 

Did not know. Seems like everyone has always stated toe at 0. But it does make since, on what you stated. So what is the actual Nissan spec for toe in?

 

.04in F, .075in R nominal