Amiricanmade

iTrader: (6)

I have this same problem. How do you rotate rotors? And where can i go to do this? I'm saving up for the OEM BBK's but wana get rid of this nasssty noise!

micmicmotorbike

iTrader: (13)

for clarification...........NO SQUEAK. i run them pretty hard on auto x's as well. plenty of stopping power, IMO. i guess it's also preference. better set up next would be super blue fluid, and ss brake lines. then brembos, then bbk.

gsazabi

iTrader: (51)

GQ for what you're looking for, all you need is this:

http://www.mynismo.com/products/?id=2966

If you want zero squeak, go with the Axxis like I said before. Hawks are a bit noisy. If you want a bit better bite go with Nismos, but they'll wear out pretty quick.
I know I mentioned BBK half-jokingly before, but they are way overkill for non track use.

joebangaa

iTrader: (1)

...for least dust and noise how about OEM?

DVFlyer

iTrader: (18)

Glad we narrowed the field down.... Hawk, Nismo, Endless, Project Mu, EBC

GQ 350z

iTrader: (13)

Seriously, this is no help. From my research all of these have their pros and cons.

A lot of folks have the Hawks, but I saw too many posts about the noise.

I really really really don't want noise...thats the main thing!! What do I do to insure the pads I buy have no noisee!!?!!

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

noise is a function of:

pad compound
install (use shims, anti squeal)
break in

I'd recommend NISMO

tranceformer95

iTrader: (20)

I switched from Hawks to Nismo pads, never looked back.

gsazabi

iTrader: (51)

Ok how about this, I actually run the Axxis Ultimates and I get zero squeaks or noise.
So my conclusion would be that go with Axxis Ultimates or Nismo. Nismo will provide better bite but will wear quicker than Axxis.
Just don't go with Hawks..they squeak.

tranceformer95

iTrader: (20)

One other factor that might help others decide:
I've never had Axxis pads, but my nismo pads hardly dust. As far as dust is concerned they're comparable to my old crappy Hawk HPS pads.

blackfairlady

iTrader: (9)

I guess I am a noob at this as well. what's the deal with rotor resurfacing? I usually just buy new ones. thanks everyone

tranceformer95

iTrader: (20)

You can save a ton of money by just resurfacing the rotors. That's assuming the rotors aren't scored or are still in good shape.

LBkr

iTrader: (2)

I haven't done a brake job on my Z yet but I've done several others. Here's some info that should apply to all brake jobs and most should help a "total noob"...

Resurfacing a rotor can be done at lots of local tire shops and brake shops. Take them your rotors and ask them to "turn your rotors" for you. They put the rotor on a special lathe and in about 5 minutes per side, scrape off all surface imperfections and make the rotor totally smooth. For some folks that's enough, some people suggest a quick LIGHT hand-sanding with some 400+ grit sandpaper in a swirl pattern. Be sure to not sand much and wipe away all dust before reassembly.
Resurfacing No Nos: If your brake PAD wears down completely and the backing of the pad touches the rotor during normal operation, you'll find that the rotor gets grooved very badly. Turning badly damaged rotors can be done but it may cause the rotor to become too thin. A rotor that has been resurfaced too many times or made too thin will tend to over-heat during regular braking and may fail or warp.

Proper "bedding-in" is a good idea for a new set of brakes to make the brakes and new (or resurfaced) rotors play nice together. Follow the manufacturer's bedding-in directions. There's a link on Hawk's page here called bedding-in and it will give you an idea of what to expect to do. (Axxis, EBC, Nismo, etc. may have different directions.)
http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance/hps.php#

Noise comes from several places in a brake assembly but is frequently amplified through the metal-to-metal contact between the caliper piston and the back of the brake pad. In a post from Z1 Performance (above) anti-squeek shims are suggested. (There are also sprays and goop in a tube available at most auto parts places.) These all go on the back of the brake pad (NOT THE SURFACE) and absorb vibration at the metal-to-metal contact point and minimize vibration and the resulting amplified squeaking noise. (You'll want to put the shim or 'brake-quieting' goop on the back of both pads, not just the one that contacts the caliper piston.) It doesn't take a lot of goop or spray.

Finally a couple of other things to remember when doing a brake job:
-You'll want to release some fluid when you compress your caliper piston to make space for the new, thicker pads you're installing. (bleeding your brakes)
-Make sure you check your brake fluid level before and after the bedding-in process.
-Some people suggest a brake system fluid flush. I'm not going to suggest you should or shouldn't because there are varying opinions here. I'm not a pro or mechanic so listen to those guys about flushing.

--
BTW- I just did a quick search for a 350z brake job "how-to" and didn't find one. Anybody have a link to a decent one? (Pics are always best)

DVFlyer

iTrader: (18)

re: link to DIY

https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-suspension-diy/58195-how-to-change-brake-pads.html

blackfairlady

iTrader: (9)

Thanks DVFlyer.

The rotors on my Z look comparable to the ones in the DIY. Not grooved.

The ones on my DD (bmw 318) are definitely grooved in the front.

What's a good rule of thumb as to when to replace the brakes? This sounds dumb, but my bmw mechanic (usually knowledgeable and trustworthy) said that for my bimmer the best thing to do is to just let the brakes wear down until the wear sensor causes the brake light to go off, and then it's time for pads and new rotors. In other words, every brake job do pads and rotors. I planned to use the same logic for the Z since I am assuming it has a wear sensor (front and rear) like bmws.

Should I instead wait until I hear the first signs of squeeling and/or grooving to look into brakes? Over the past 2 years I have done countless hours of research on vehicle maintenance and have been able to accomplish just about all of the basic..and some not so basic..maintenance procedures. The closest thing I have done to a full brake job are my E-Brake shoes on my BMW which required disassembly and reassembly of the rear brakes.

Essentially, I know how to replace pads and rotors, but I just don't know when to do it to both ensure overall safe AND get my money's worth out of the equipment I currently have.

- The bold part is all that you really needed to read. I fail.

BhashaZ

iTrader: (18)

Ravi, FWIW, I have the Endless Vita Nuovas. I can attest to the fact that they don't squeek/squeel, have better bite than OEM, and the fronts dust less than OEM. However, oddly, it seems like my REARs dust the same or more than OEM, which I find odd.

When I first changed my brake pads from OEM, I wanted to make sure that the new pads that I used on the FRONTS (in my case, Endless), put out less dust than the OEM REARS, so that my wheels don't turn gunmetal. And they worked well in meeting my criteria, which was great! So I assumed that since the OEM rears dusted less than the OEM fronts, the Endless would have the same correlation, and the Endless rears would end up dusting a lot less than the fronts. It may be related to the fact that my rear lips are so big, but it seems to me that the rear Endless aren't that much better than OEM in terms of dust.

Having said that, if I had to do it again, I would go with Endless Vita Nuova pads for the front, and OEM Nissan pads for the rear. I don't think you have too much to worry about in terms of different pads front/rear, because think of all the people who just upgrade to front BBKs. I feel that this wouldn't compromise braking integrity too much if any. Of course, this is coming from someone who doesn't know all too much about brakes, so take it for what it's worth. If anybody would advise against this, feel free to correct me.

GQ 350z

iTrader: (13)

Any one have problems with me runnings endless fronts and OEM rears? If so speak up or forever hold my peace...lol!

BhashaZ

iTrader: (18)

Lol...I doubt very many people have run THAT particular setup...but someone might have used aftermark fronts with the OEM rears. Like I said, I don't anticipate there to be any issues given that the Endless Vita Nuovas are a street pad, but I'll let the experts chime in.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

would be perfectly fine to run OE rear and Endless front

GQ 350z

iTrader: (13)

Thanks Adam..you are an asset to the community! P.s. Do you have these particular Endless fronts in stock for non-brembo? What is your best price shipped to 95212. Please pm me. Do you have the oem rears as well?

Thanks Amit for the idea! =)