Lowered on PA and NJ's crappy roads.
#1
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Lowered on PA and NJ's crappy roads.
Hey,
I just dropped my car on Eibach Sportlines, which is a 1.2" drop, I think they settled a little lower. I have Tokico adjustable shocks, rear camber arms and toes in the back.
This is my daily driver and I think it might be a little too low because I do scrape going over speedbumps(which I try to avoid at all cause) and on some of the streets here in WC, I haven't even attempted to go drive in Philly.
Basically, I want an aggressive drop but I don't want to have to be paranoid driving the car. The way I drive has done a complete 180 because I am scared to go too fast and bottom out somewhere.
What is a step down from Sportlines. Would the Pro Kit be too low still? Tanabe GF210's are the same drop as the Sportlines correct? Those in the Northeast who drive their z as a daily driver on these shitty roads, what are you dropped on?
Here is a pic of the car on sportlines vs stock. The sportlines drop is sick, but not practical for daily driving around here.
Below are the Eibach Sportlines:
Below is my car stock:
I just dropped my car on Eibach Sportlines, which is a 1.2" drop, I think they settled a little lower. I have Tokico adjustable shocks, rear camber arms and toes in the back.
This is my daily driver and I think it might be a little too low because I do scrape going over speedbumps(which I try to avoid at all cause) and on some of the streets here in WC, I haven't even attempted to go drive in Philly.
Basically, I want an aggressive drop but I don't want to have to be paranoid driving the car. The way I drive has done a complete 180 because I am scared to go too fast and bottom out somewhere.
What is a step down from Sportlines. Would the Pro Kit be too low still? Tanabe GF210's are the same drop as the Sportlines correct? Those in the Northeast who drive their z as a daily driver on these shitty roads, what are you dropped on?
Here is a pic of the car on sportlines vs stock. The sportlines drop is sick, but not practical for daily driving around here.
Below are the Eibach Sportlines:
Below is my car stock:
#2
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iTrader: (10)
Your sport lines have a 1.2" drop and under the circumstances your on the best shocks you can have since D-specs can be adjusted stiffer on both rebound and compression (Koni's are rebound only and I don't think you'd want to be on $1k+ shocks either).
Given the specs on the Sportlines, which are,......
Eibach 350Z sportline progressive springs 1.2"/1.2"
F: 239/400 R: 257/435
Very wide spreads between the softer initial rates and firmer peak rates.
Your not going to gain anything with any other 1.2 or 1" drop spring. The only spring that could make a differance would be Tein S-tech, even then that springs lessor drop of .5" my not bring things around like you'd like.
Tein S-tech 350Z springs .7“.6“ (fronts are slightly progressive, rears are linear)
Spring rates in LBS 386/402 (estimated front intial rate is 327lbs
IMO, you have reason to maybe consider moving to coilovers. Higher spring rates will help protect the car from bottoming out and better damper (shock) piston stroke will help keep you off the bumps stops your on a whole lot right now.
Given the specs on the Sportlines, which are,......
Eibach 350Z sportline progressive springs 1.2"/1.2"
F: 239/400 R: 257/435
Very wide spreads between the softer initial rates and firmer peak rates.
Your not going to gain anything with any other 1.2 or 1" drop spring. The only spring that could make a differance would be Tein S-tech, even then that springs lessor drop of .5" my not bring things around like you'd like.
Tein S-tech 350Z springs .7“.6“ (fronts are slightly progressive, rears are linear)
Spring rates in LBS 386/402 (estimated front intial rate is 327lbs
IMO, you have reason to maybe consider moving to coilovers. Higher spring rates will help protect the car from bottoming out and better damper (shock) piston stroke will help keep you off the bumps stops your on a whole lot right now.
#3
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Thank you for the reply, it was very informative.
I just put these on two weeks ago, it sucks i have to take everything off to switch to coilovers.
Any recommendations on what coilovers to look at? Do you think I might possibly get away with adjusting the shots so I dont bottom out? Or is the only way to get around this is purchasing coilovers?
I just put these on two weeks ago, it sucks i have to take everything off to switch to coilovers.
Any recommendations on what coilovers to look at? Do you think I might possibly get away with adjusting the shots so I dont bottom out? Or is the only way to get around this is purchasing coilovers?
Last edited by ErinFaulk; 05-01-2008 at 09:53 AM.
#4
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Originally Posted by ErinFaulk
Thank you for the reply, it was very informative.
I just put these on two weeks ago, it sucks i have to take everything off to switch to coilovers.
Any recommendations on what coilovers to look at? Do you think I might possibly get away with adjusting the shots so I dont bottom out? Or is the only way to get around this is purchasing coilovers?
I just put these on two weeks ago, it sucks i have to take everything off to switch to coilovers.
Any recommendations on what coilovers to look at? Do you think I might possibly get away with adjusting the shots so I dont bottom out? Or is the only way to get around this is purchasing coilovers?
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