Less Expensive Big Brake Kits?
I talked to some guys at Carbotech around my last track days (when I was having some problems w/ my stock Performance brakes). They informed me that the stock Brembos are actually from the 7 series BMW from a few years ago and were also from another German car. Can anyone establish this as fact? Can we get some calipers from a wreck, buy the mounting brackets, and rotors, and have ourselves a less expensive Brembo option? Anyone? I will probably need a front kit soon when track dates start up again in the fall, but don't want to pay 2K$. Anyone got any pointers?
I've looked into the sizing of this project but not the cost. If you want lager brakes for your Z then look at installing the brake system from the 04 Maximum. The rotor size is just .16 smaller than the Brembo package. These rotors and calipers will bolt right up and will fit behind 17" rims. I'm looking for a totaled 04 Maximum which should be available in about another 6 months as more are sold and wrecked.
What are the specs? 1 pot, 4 pot? That's what makes the difference. If they are just a larger single piston, it won't matter that much. I really need a 4 piston caliper. You would not believe how hot my brakes got at my last track day. All the other stock brakes boiled, I replaced my lines/fluid/track pads. The pads got so hot that the backing plates warped. The dust rings to the pistons on the front melted and disintegrated. 4 piston or more should dissipate the heat better. I have also made some ducts to draw air towards the calipers. Our stock brakes suck!
I've tracked my Z at 3 different events this year and instructed at 2 other events. I am running Carbotechs XP pads on the fronts and Pather + on the rears. I've ducted the front rotors and have also removed the dust covers. I've changed fluid to Super Blue. I've not had the problems with brakes that you have experienced. The pads will last me one more weekend and then will need replacing. Bigger brakes do play a role in improving stopping but the bigger factor is your tires and the contack patch. I'm running Firehawks 235/45/17 fronts and 275/40/17 rears. These are mounted on stock 17" rims and I've be very pleased with their performance.
I think it all depends on the track, I also used the XP's up front and the + in rear with stock calipers and had similar problems specially with the rears. The XP's in front lasted 2 1/2 days while the rears only lasted 1 1/2 days before the inner pads were warped and the middle of the pad was down to metal. I will definelty remove the shields before the next event and I just got a set of Brembo's for the front from a Track model owner.
I am really interested in your tire choice specially the width WOW, I am looking for a set of tires for the stock 17's so I can save the the Rays I got.
I am really interested in your tire choice specially the width WOW, I am looking for a set of tires for the stock 17's so I can save the the Rays I got.
Believe me, it is the track! I have ss lines/motul 600/pather+ front & rear. I was the only non-Brembo Z that didn't boil, but I went through the new set of new pads in 1 weekend! The track was VIR south. 120mph straight followed by a tight autox section w/ elevation. Constant braking= bad. For wheels/tires, I now have TE37s in 18 w/ T1S on them. But for the track I'm trying to kill my stock RE040s.
The track I have gone to is Seabring 3.7 miles with 17 turns and 3 straights or quasy straights were you get over 100 MPH, so the brakes are taking a pounding, and the rears are just getting killed.
Trending Topics
Yes, but what also uses these calipers? I think the Carbotech guys said that a 7 series BMW used them and some other German car. They need to be cars that are regularly imported and readily available.
Originally posted by mcclaskz
4 piston or more should dissipate the heat better. I have also made some ducts to draw air towards the calipers. Our stock brakes suck!
4 piston or more should dissipate the heat better. I have also made some ducts to draw air towards the calipers. Our stock brakes suck!
Number of caliper pistons really doesn't affect how much heat can be dissipated. A higher number of smaller pistons will however distribute the pressure more evenly on the brake pads, which will help get more even wear and improve the pedal feel.
Extra mass in the rotors and good cooling will be the key to getting rid of more heat. Make sure you duct the air to the center of the rotor (for vented rotors) as much as possible. The rotors pull air in from the center, and just blowing air on the rotor face will not help as much.
At Sebring and Moroso, the track model brakes are inadequate for the Z when you are really cooking, unless you use cooling ducts, and a fluid such as Motul 600 RBF. Even then, I'm not sure. I used the track model in stock form for Moroso, and I boiled the fluid in all three sessions, using well known competition pads. I also encountered other brake issues. They can all be read about at:
http://www.ntechengineering.com/inde...ction=projectz
After switching to StopTech front 14" system, and adding true cooling ducts from the front of the car to the center of the rotor, things are now under control, and I have full confidence in the stopping power of the car. On August 2nd, I'll be on large Dunlop slicks with the car at Sebring, which will introduce larger braking loads due to increased speeds and increased traction capabilities. If the brakes hold up to this, they will hold up anywhere, as Sebring is about as bad on brakes as you can get. There will be an update posted on the above web site after the event.
I have forged good relationships with several brake manufacturers in the course of this adventure, and have gained a lot of knowledge through it. If I can assist anyone with their braking needs, feel free to give a ring.
http://www.ntechengineering.com/inde...ction=projectz
After switching to StopTech front 14" system, and adding true cooling ducts from the front of the car to the center of the rotor, things are now under control, and I have full confidence in the stopping power of the car. On August 2nd, I'll be on large Dunlop slicks with the car at Sebring, which will introduce larger braking loads due to increased speeds and increased traction capabilities. If the brakes hold up to this, they will hold up anywhere, as Sebring is about as bad on brakes as you can get. There will be an update posted on the above web site after the event.
I have forged good relationships with several brake manufacturers in the course of this adventure, and have gained a lot of knowledge through it. If I can assist anyone with their braking needs, feel free to give a ring.
There are 3 tracks on the east coast that I consider to be extremely hard on brakes. You guys mentioned 2 of them: Sebring and VIR-south.
Yes, multi-piston calipers will not help dissipate any more heat. For that you need a larger rotor, which sounds like the 04 Max has. That sounds like a good, cheap upgrade and I'd do it in a heartbeat if I had a 350 with standard brakes. In essense, you guys have C4 Corvette power and weight, with brakes from a Sentra. Seriously! That's the same brakes that are on the B15 Sentra!!!! How irresponsible of Nissan!!! The inevitably lower operating temps offered by a larger rotor will greatly reduce the inner pad warpage you guys are experiencing as well, so the single piston caliper shouldn't be a major issue.
I went through the SAME THING years ago on my Sentra. Pads wearing out in record time due to the extreme operating temps of the microscopic brakes. I now have NX2000 brakes and I go 11 weekends on a set of rotors and get 3-5 weekends out of a set of pads.
Yes, multi-piston calipers will not help dissipate any more heat. For that you need a larger rotor, which sounds like the 04 Max has. That sounds like a good, cheap upgrade and I'd do it in a heartbeat if I had a 350 with standard brakes. In essense, you guys have C4 Corvette power and weight, with brakes from a Sentra. Seriously! That's the same brakes that are on the B15 Sentra!!!! How irresponsible of Nissan!!! The inevitably lower operating temps offered by a larger rotor will greatly reduce the inner pad warpage you guys are experiencing as well, so the single piston caliper shouldn't be a major issue.
I went through the SAME THING years ago on my Sentra. Pads wearing out in record time due to the extreme operating temps of the microscopic brakes. I now have NX2000 brakes and I go 11 weekends on a set of rotors and get 3-5 weekends out of a set of pads.
Not to be a dick, but how many more times are you going to try and cheap out on the brakes? If you want to play, you have to pay. The StopTech 13" kit is only $1700 and will change everything for you. How much have you already put in the stock brakes that could have been applied to the cost of a Big Brake kit?
You can't just look at rotor diameter in this equation. That only increases surface area which does give you a greater contact patch for the pad as well as aid in heat dispersion, but you need thicker rotors as well. Think of rotors in comparsion to a heat sink on a CPU. Remember the tiny heat sink on say a P2? Now think of how big both in area and thickness a heat sink is on on a P4. That additional thickness pulls heat further away from the contact with the CPU were it is dispersed into the case. In terms of brake rotors, thicker rotors pull heat further away from the contact patch where the pad meets the rotor, to the vanes where air can cool the rotor. It's a constant ebb and flow of heat dispersing through the rotor material. The further that heat can travel in thickness and surface area, the cooler your rotor can run.
You can't just look at rotor diameter in this equation. That only increases surface area which does give you a greater contact patch for the pad as well as aid in heat dispersion, but you need thicker rotors as well. Think of rotors in comparsion to a heat sink on a CPU. Remember the tiny heat sink on say a P2? Now think of how big both in area and thickness a heat sink is on on a P4. That additional thickness pulls heat further away from the contact with the CPU were it is dispersed into the case. In terms of brake rotors, thicker rotors pull heat further away from the contact patch where the pad meets the rotor, to the vanes where air can cool the rotor. It's a constant ebb and flow of heat dispersing through the rotor material. The further that heat can travel in thickness and surface area, the cooler your rotor can run.
I'm just really curious how you guys are venting the brakes. Is there a modified bumper with ducts in front of the wheel wells? (If not this might be a cool after-market item.) Or did you manufacture other methods to get more air to the wheels?
You're not being a dick, but I'm not being cheap either. I'm trying to see if there are any other brake modifications that will solve this problem. A common brake mod on the original Z was to take the disc brakes off of a Toyota truck, they bolt right on and work very well. They were also not $2k. But I guess they didn't say Brembo or Stoptech on them either. I'm trying to be academic about this and see if there is any other routes to take before I get a big brake kit. By the way I saw that Motorsport Auto has the 13" AP kit for $1639, the cheapest I have seen if anyone is interested.
We are finishing up our duct package to release soon.
Also, I can't see the pictures on the site posted Russell, but from the text I gather that they are Wilwood calipers. No comparision to a caliper from AP, Alcon, or Brembo. With brakes, to a fair degree, you get what you pay for. Material qualities can vary widely. What type of safety testing gets done? What kind of certifications are achieved? YOu want to be real careful with the only thing between you and a horrific crash into a concrete barrier...
Also, I can't see the pictures on the site posted Russell, but from the text I gather that they are Wilwood calipers. No comparision to a caliper from AP, Alcon, or Brembo. With brakes, to a fair degree, you get what you pay for. Material qualities can vary widely. What type of safety testing gets done? What kind of certifications are achieved? YOu want to be real careful with the only thing between you and a horrific crash into a concrete barrier...
Where can you get Stoptechs for $1700? I have been quoted $1800-$1995 shipped.
Originally posted by droideka
Not to be a dick, but how many more times are you going to try and cheap out on the brakes? If you want to play, you have to pay. The StopTech 13" kit is only $1700 and will change everything for you. How much have you already put in the stock brakes that could have been applied to the cost of a Big Brake kit?
You can't just look at rotor diameter in this equation. That only increases surface area which does give you a greater contact patch for the pad as well as aid in heat dispersion, but you need thicker rotors as well. Think of rotors in comparsion to a heat sink on a CPU. Remember the tiny heat sink on say a P2? Now think of how big both in area and thickness a heat sink is on on a P4. That additional thickness pulls heat further away from the contact with the CPU were it is dispersed into the case. In terms of brake rotors, thicker rotors pull heat further away from the contact patch where the pad meets the rotor, to the vanes where air can cool the rotor. It's a constant ebb and flow of heat dispersing through the rotor material. The further that heat can travel in thickness and surface area, the cooler your rotor can run.
Not to be a dick, but how many more times are you going to try and cheap out on the brakes? If you want to play, you have to pay. The StopTech 13" kit is only $1700 and will change everything for you. How much have you already put in the stock brakes that could have been applied to the cost of a Big Brake kit?
You can't just look at rotor diameter in this equation. That only increases surface area which does give you a greater contact patch for the pad as well as aid in heat dispersion, but you need thicker rotors as well. Think of rotors in comparsion to a heat sink on a CPU. Remember the tiny heat sink on say a P2? Now think of how big both in area and thickness a heat sink is on on a P4. That additional thickness pulls heat further away from the contact with the CPU were it is dispersed into the case. In terms of brake rotors, thicker rotors pull heat further away from the contact patch where the pad meets the rotor, to the vanes where air can cool the rotor. It's a constant ebb and flow of heat dispersing through the rotor material. The further that heat can travel in thickness and surface area, the cooler your rotor can run.




