shooter3k

iTrader: (2)

So... I just finished installing 20mm spacers on the front and rear of the car.

After finishing the installation I back the car up out of the shop I was working in and set the ebrake and the car starts rolling back.

Everything went back in the way it was supposed to be, if it was taken off it was put back on... I really have no idea what happened or why its not working. The rotor is put back around the ebrake drums just like it was when it came off, only difference is the longer lug bolts that I had to put in for the 20mm spacers.

Anyone got a fix for this? Appreciate any help, Thanks.

35Z

Did they adjust the E-brake afterward?

First try:

Jack up the rear,remove the rear rim/tire, remove the rubber e-brake inspection ruber plug (for the rear E-brake adjustment hole) located on the side of the center part of the rotor, rotate rotor to the top (12 o'clock position).

With flashlight pointed in the e-brake adjustment inspection hole, view the adjuster located near the top. With the parking lever in the completely return position (i.e. full release down position); insert a flat-head screwdriver in the e-brake inspection hole; turn the adjuster downward until the disc rotor locks (Note: the e-brake adjuster is a cog wheel type). After locking, turn the adjuster in the oppoiste direction (i.e. up position) 5-6 clicks until the rotors no longer bind) Repeat on the other rear side and adjust.

Rotate the disk rotor to make sure their is no drag with the e-brake lever in the off position. Now pull up on the e-brake lever (should be 6-7 clicks if adjusted correctly). Reinstall the e-brake inspection rubber plugs.

Re-install the rim/tire and torque to 89 ft/lbs. (stock rotors/rims specs).


Release the e-brake lever again and inspect (rotate) the rear rotors a few times (Nissan suggests 10 times to make sure the e-brakes don't bind).

Go for a short test drive to make sure the e-brake drums are not binding.

shooter3k

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I think thats where I ****ed up.... I had turned that little thing all the way tight so I could get the rotor around the ebrake drum...


Is that the only possible cause of it complelty not working? I could see this making it take a few more clicks to lock in place, but completley not working?

RandyK1

iTrader: (9)

How hard were your rear rotors to get off after you unadjusted the adjustment wheel??

shooter3k

iTrader: (2)

I didn't adjust it prior to taking it off. I pounded out the stock lug bolt stud thingies and then just pulled the rotor off. It was 100% effortless after the studs were pounded out, I had to adjust it to get it back on, and I guess I was supposed to re-adjust it after it was back on.

shooter3k

iTrader: (2)

Incase anyone is reading this and wondering the fix for it, 35Z was dead on with the ebrake adjuster. It was fully tightened/locked so I turned it for a few til the ebrake was back to it its normal 4 clicks-up than locked. Repeated the same amount of turns on the cog wheel to the passenger side.

Thanks for the help 35Z

mdracer76

iTrader: (1)

Aren't these self setting ebrakes? I heard you could reverse for 50 or so feet a few times, and it would automatically adjust the tension on the ebrake.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

No so much.

shooter3k

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I heard that "reverse for so long and it'll set itself" I just put the car in reverse and drove in a circle for about a min. then pulled the ebrake and got nothing... The cog wheel thingy was what was wrong and the only fix I found.

COJ_General

iTrader: (10)

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