Have been doing research for Coilovers and need some help
06-30-2008, 05:42 AM
#1
Have been doing research for Coilovers and need some help
Hey everyone. I've been spending a lot of my free time lately reading different reviews on different coilovers and trying to understand the benefit of them over springs w/ struts and what not. Now I was looking for some help from people who have them on here. I plan on going to the track every once in a while so I still want to have a nice drive on the street. My budget is about $1200. I've been looking at the BC coilovers and the Tein Basics because they seem to be sturdy, smooth rides and work well on the track. Plus they are within my budget. Anyone have any suggestion or thoughts they would like to share about coilovers that would help me with my decision? Thanks in advance.
Charles
Charles
06-30-2008, 07:51 AM
#3
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Sounds like you already know BC's will be best, and they get my vote too. I've got about 6k of street miles on mine and 3 track events.
06-30-2008, 08:11 AM
#4
Originally Posted by mdracer76
BC FTW.. that is all.
(you should post q's like this IN the threads that already exist, rather than create a new one
)
(you should post q's like this IN the threads that already exist, rather than create a new one
) But thanks for that feedback guys. Where is a good place to buy them?
Last edited by Fairlady.4u2nv; 06-30-2008 at 08:13 AM.
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07-04-2008, 02:34 AM
#8
ive basically decided to go with BC's when i get back from poland. but i have another quick question. I'm gonna be installing them on stock rims for now until i can decide what kind of rims i want later on, and because I'm moving to arizona so i didnt want to do a road trip on nice rims. but will i have any problems with lowering my car on stocks? will i need any spacers to give it that nice stance or will these be enough? I've also seen a lot of people buy control arms up front when they lower alot, should i get some of those as well?
Last edited by Fairlady.4u2nv; 07-10-2008 at 04:54 AM.
07-10-2008, 05:20 AM
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you can lower the car on any wheel you like
You very well may need adjustable front a arms and a you will definitely need a rear camber/toe kit. We have a combo deal on the BC coilovers + Eibach/SPC rear camber toe kit for $1150 shipped in the vendor classifieds section (suspension area).
endlinks are optional - a nice upgrade for sure, but personally I'd wait till you fit aftermarket sways to fit aftermarket endlinks
You very well may need adjustable front a arms and a you will definitely need a rear camber/toe kit. We have a combo deal on the BC coilovers + Eibach/SPC rear camber toe kit for $1150 shipped in the vendor classifieds section (suspension area).
endlinks are optional - a nice upgrade for sure, but personally I'd wait till you fit aftermarket sways to fit aftermarket endlinks
07-10-2008, 07:49 PM
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Go to the track with your car stock. Learn how it works. It is extremely short on power (235 HP to the wheels), fading brakes and understeers like a beast. You need to experience this.
First add-on, a strong Stabilizer bar front and back. I have a Hotchkis front and rear with solid poly bushings and multiple settings up to 110% stiffer. It realy makes your car solid without over stiffness and is the only way to reduce body roll. There are other bars that are just as good as long as they provide the solid bushings and are adjustable.
Everyone does the coilovers first so they can lower their car but without the stabilizers they provide little help. You may find the stabilizer bars enough for what you intend to do and this add-on is within your budget.
Next add the coilovers. You should know that Tien Basics and BC's have one stiff setting and can lower your car, that's it. So you want to track the car with one setting? Don't see the point!
I track regularly and have the Tein flex coilovers with the EDFC (electronic dampening force control) unit. You can set the dampening force 16 ways for the front and 16 ways for the rear, from soft to hard, by merely the push of a button inside the car. You get real control for oversteer or understeer while you are driving on the track. Superior to all basic coilover setups. Save up a little longer to get this as the best street and track system available.
You absolutely will need adjustable camber bars front and rear when you lower your car. We all know this as the stock settings are exceeded upon lowering and you cannot align your car without them. I use Cuscos but there are otheres just as good. With them you can adjust your wheels 2% or more for a real cornering improvement.
I added the GTspec front and rear suspension braces to make rigid the rather loose stock suspension. Embarassing how wiggly the suspension was when it wasn't tied together before the braces were installed. Now it is solid as a rock under normal and extreme tracking and cornering conditions. The big bonus is how well it handles braking under hard cornering at the track.
I found only a few people in these forums that are actually helpful on suspension. You'd think they are salesmen for the parts companies because they feel that they have to defend their purchase as the only "right" equipment to buy.
I admit the parts can be costly but when you tie them together in the proper sequence it is a night and day difference.
You cannot survive very long on the track with stock 350Z rotors, pads and calipers. When your braking fades away so does your desire to return to the track. Start thinking STOPTECH big brake kits and track pads. Dave Zeckhausen has a Brake shop/store out east and he knows more about this topic than anyone I've found so far. He might be able to help you on the proper pads without adding the Big brake kits.
Rim size and tire selection is critical. 30 series low profile tires may look good but are not the proper tire for cornering at the track. Just look at what the pros use and you'll see what I mean. 35 and 40 series sticky compound tires on 18" rims, (maybe 19's). I found some realy big help in this area on the forum because there really are people that track their cars quite extensively and know their stuff here.
Lastly, forced induction. Do not waste money on exhausts and intakes and pulleys and all that junk. You only get marginal returns in horsepower for thousands of dollars and it won't matter on the street or the track. For two times this cost you can add a turbo which adds 150 HP safely to your wheels. I did and now the car is complete. Super chargers are nice but require way too much babysitting, belt tightening, oil levels etc. for my liking.
I hope this is helpful because I started out just like you with everyone offering opinions but never staying focused enough to tie it all together.
I wasted money on the junk I mentioned here including exhaust and multiple tire and wheel sets and resold it to these guys on this forum.
Good luck.
First add-on, a strong Stabilizer bar front and back. I have a Hotchkis front and rear with solid poly bushings and multiple settings up to 110% stiffer. It realy makes your car solid without over stiffness and is the only way to reduce body roll. There are other bars that are just as good as long as they provide the solid bushings and are adjustable.
Everyone does the coilovers first so they can lower their car but without the stabilizers they provide little help. You may find the stabilizer bars enough for what you intend to do and this add-on is within your budget.
Next add the coilovers. You should know that Tien Basics and BC's have one stiff setting and can lower your car, that's it. So you want to track the car with one setting? Don't see the point!
I track regularly and have the Tein flex coilovers with the EDFC (electronic dampening force control) unit. You can set the dampening force 16 ways for the front and 16 ways for the rear, from soft to hard, by merely the push of a button inside the car. You get real control for oversteer or understeer while you are driving on the track. Superior to all basic coilover setups. Save up a little longer to get this as the best street and track system available.
You absolutely will need adjustable camber bars front and rear when you lower your car. We all know this as the stock settings are exceeded upon lowering and you cannot align your car without them. I use Cuscos but there are otheres just as good. With them you can adjust your wheels 2% or more for a real cornering improvement.
I added the GTspec front and rear suspension braces to make rigid the rather loose stock suspension. Embarassing how wiggly the suspension was when it wasn't tied together before the braces were installed. Now it is solid as a rock under normal and extreme tracking and cornering conditions. The big bonus is how well it handles braking under hard cornering at the track.
I found only a few people in these forums that are actually helpful on suspension. You'd think they are salesmen for the parts companies because they feel that they have to defend their purchase as the only "right" equipment to buy.
I admit the parts can be costly but when you tie them together in the proper sequence it is a night and day difference.
You cannot survive very long on the track with stock 350Z rotors, pads and calipers. When your braking fades away so does your desire to return to the track. Start thinking STOPTECH big brake kits and track pads. Dave Zeckhausen has a Brake shop/store out east and he knows more about this topic than anyone I've found so far. He might be able to help you on the proper pads without adding the Big brake kits.
Rim size and tire selection is critical. 30 series low profile tires may look good but are not the proper tire for cornering at the track. Just look at what the pros use and you'll see what I mean. 35 and 40 series sticky compound tires on 18" rims, (maybe 19's). I found some realy big help in this area on the forum because there really are people that track their cars quite extensively and know their stuff here.
Lastly, forced induction. Do not waste money on exhausts and intakes and pulleys and all that junk. You only get marginal returns in horsepower for thousands of dollars and it won't matter on the street or the track. For two times this cost you can add a turbo which adds 150 HP safely to your wheels. I did and now the car is complete. Super chargers are nice but require way too much babysitting, belt tightening, oil levels etc. for my liking.
I hope this is helpful because I started out just like you with everyone offering opinions but never staying focused enough to tie it all together.
I wasted money on the junk I mentioned here including exhaust and multiple tire and wheel sets and resold it to these guys on this forum.
Good luck.
Last edited by greyson; 07-10-2008 at 07:57 PM.
07-11-2008, 01:47 AM
#14
greyson that is probably the best advice i have ever got! I'm definitely going to be looking into that stuff and save up. I guess my FI might have to wait a little bit longer than 5 months 
But in the end I know it'll be worth it. Btw greyson, where in illinois are you?
But in the end I know it'll be worth it. Btw greyson, where in illinois are you?
Last edited by Fairlady.4u2nv; 07-11-2008 at 01:49 AM.
07-11-2008, 03:11 AM
#15
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Originally Posted by greyson
Go to the track with your car stock. Learn how it works. It is extremely short on power (235 HP to the wheels), fading brakes and understeers like a beast. You need to experience this.
First add-on, a strong Stabilizer bar front and back. I have a Hotchkis front and rear with solid poly bushings and multiple settings up to 110% stiffer. It realy makes your car solid without over stiffness and is the only way to reduce body roll. There are other bars that are just as good as long as they provide the solid bushings and are adjustable.
Everyone does the coilovers first so they can lower their car but without the stabilizers they provide little help. You may find the stabilizer bars enough for what you intend to do and this add-on is within your budget.
Next add the coilovers. You should know that Tien Basics and BC's have one stiff setting and can lower your car, that's it. So you want to track the car with one setting? Don't see the point!
I track regularly and have the Tein flex coilovers with the EDFC (electronic dampening force control) unit. You can set the dampening force 16 ways for the front and 16 ways for the rear, from soft to hard, by merely the push of a button inside the car. You get real control for oversteer or understeer while you are driving on the track. Superior to all basic coilover setups. Save up a little longer to get this as the best street and track system available.
You absolutely will need adjustable camber bars front and rear when you lower your car. We all know this as the stock settings are exceeded upon lowering and you cannot align your car without them. I use Cuscos but there are otheres just as good. With them you can adjust your wheels 2% or more for a real cornering improvement.
I added the GTspec front and rear suspension braces to make rigid the rather loose stock suspension. Embarassing how wiggly the suspension was when it wasn't tied together before the braces were installed. Now it is solid as a rock under normal and extreme tracking and cornering conditions. The big bonus is how well it handles braking under hard cornering at the track.
I found only a few people in these forums that are actually helpful on suspension. You'd think they are salesmen for the parts companies because they feel that they have to defend their purchase as the only "right" equipment to buy.
I admit the parts can be costly but when you tie them together in the proper sequence it is a night and day difference.
You cannot survive very long on the track with stock 350Z rotors, pads and calipers. When your braking fades away so does your desire to return to the track. Start thinking STOPTECH big brake kits and track pads. Dave Zeckhausen has a Brake shop/store out east and he knows more about this topic than anyone I've found so far. He might be able to help you on the proper pads without adding the Big brake kits.
Rim size and tire selection is critical. 30 series low profile tires may look good but are not the proper tire for cornering at the track. Just look at what the pros use and you'll see what I mean. 35 and 40 series sticky compound tires on 18" rims, (maybe 19's). I found some realy big help in this area on the forum because there really are people that track their cars quite extensively and know their stuff here.
Lastly, forced induction. Do not waste money on exhausts and intakes and pulleys and all that junk. You only get marginal returns in horsepower for thousands of dollars and it won't matter on the street or the track. For two times this cost you can add a turbo which adds 150 HP safely to your wheels. I did and now the car is complete. Super chargers are nice but require way too much babysitting, belt tightening, oil levels etc. for my liking.
I hope this is helpful because I started out just like you with everyone offering opinions but never staying focused enough to tie it all together.
I wasted money on the junk I mentioned here including exhaust and multiple tire and wheel sets and resold it to these guys on this forum.
Good luck.
First add-on, a strong Stabilizer bar front and back. I have a Hotchkis front and rear with solid poly bushings and multiple settings up to 110% stiffer. It realy makes your car solid without over stiffness and is the only way to reduce body roll. There are other bars that are just as good as long as they provide the solid bushings and are adjustable.
Everyone does the coilovers first so they can lower their car but without the stabilizers they provide little help. You may find the stabilizer bars enough for what you intend to do and this add-on is within your budget.
Next add the coilovers. You should know that Tien Basics and BC's have one stiff setting and can lower your car, that's it. So you want to track the car with one setting? Don't see the point!
I track regularly and have the Tein flex coilovers with the EDFC (electronic dampening force control) unit. You can set the dampening force 16 ways for the front and 16 ways for the rear, from soft to hard, by merely the push of a button inside the car. You get real control for oversteer or understeer while you are driving on the track. Superior to all basic coilover setups. Save up a little longer to get this as the best street and track system available.
You absolutely will need adjustable camber bars front and rear when you lower your car. We all know this as the stock settings are exceeded upon lowering and you cannot align your car without them. I use Cuscos but there are otheres just as good. With them you can adjust your wheels 2% or more for a real cornering improvement.
I added the GTspec front and rear suspension braces to make rigid the rather loose stock suspension. Embarassing how wiggly the suspension was when it wasn't tied together before the braces were installed. Now it is solid as a rock under normal and extreme tracking and cornering conditions. The big bonus is how well it handles braking under hard cornering at the track.
I found only a few people in these forums that are actually helpful on suspension. You'd think they are salesmen for the parts companies because they feel that they have to defend their purchase as the only "right" equipment to buy.
I admit the parts can be costly but when you tie them together in the proper sequence it is a night and day difference.
You cannot survive very long on the track with stock 350Z rotors, pads and calipers. When your braking fades away so does your desire to return to the track. Start thinking STOPTECH big brake kits and track pads. Dave Zeckhausen has a Brake shop/store out east and he knows more about this topic than anyone I've found so far. He might be able to help you on the proper pads without adding the Big brake kits.
Rim size and tire selection is critical. 30 series low profile tires may look good but are not the proper tire for cornering at the track. Just look at what the pros use and you'll see what I mean. 35 and 40 series sticky compound tires on 18" rims, (maybe 19's). I found some realy big help in this area on the forum because there really are people that track their cars quite extensively and know their stuff here.
Lastly, forced induction. Do not waste money on exhausts and intakes and pulleys and all that junk. You only get marginal returns in horsepower for thousands of dollars and it won't matter on the street or the track. For two times this cost you can add a turbo which adds 150 HP safely to your wheels. I did and now the car is complete. Super chargers are nice but require way too much babysitting, belt tightening, oil levels etc. for my liking.
I hope this is helpful because I started out just like you with everyone offering opinions but never staying focused enough to tie it all together.
I wasted money on the junk I mentioned here including exhaust and multiple tire and wheel sets and resold it to these guys on this forum.
Good luck.
07-11-2008, 04:54 AM
#16
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Originally Posted by greyson
Go to the track with your car stock. Learn how it works. It is extremely short on power (235 HP to the wheels), fading brakes and understeers like a beast. You need to experience this.
First add-on, a strong Stabilizer bar front and back. I have a Hotchkis front and rear with solid poly bushings and multiple settings up to 110% stiffer. It realy makes your car solid without over stiffness and is the only way to reduce body roll. There are other bars that are just as good as long as they provide the solid bushings and are adjustable.
Everyone does the coilovers first so they can lower their car but without the stabilizers they provide little help. You may find the stabilizer bars enough for what you intend to do and this add-on is within your budget.
Next add the coilovers. You should know that Tien Basics and BC's have one stiff setting and can lower your car, that's it. So you want to track the car with one setting? Don't see the point!
I track regularly and have the Tein flex coilovers with the EDFC (electronic dampening force control) unit. You can set the dampening force 16 ways for the front and 16 ways for the rear, from soft to hard, by merely the push of a button inside the car. You get real control for oversteer or understeer while you are driving on the track. Superior to all basic coilover setups. Save up a little longer to get this as the best street and track system available.
You absolutely will need adjustable camber bars front and rear when you lower your car. We all know this as the stock settings are exceeded upon lowering and you cannot align your car without them. I use Cuscos but there are otheres just as good. With them you can adjust your wheels 2% or more for a real cornering improvement.
I added the GTspec front and rear suspension braces to make rigid the rather loose stock suspension. Embarassing how wiggly the suspension was when it wasn't tied together before the braces were installed. Now it is solid as a rock under normal and extreme tracking and cornering conditions. The big bonus is how well it handles braking under hard cornering at the track.
I found only a few people in these forums that are actually helpful on suspension. You'd think they are salesmen for the parts companies because they feel that they have to defend their purchase as the only "right" equipment to buy.
I admit the parts can be costly but when you tie them together in the proper sequence it is a night and day difference.
You cannot survive very long on the track with stock 350Z rotors, pads and calipers. When your braking fades away so does your desire to return to the track. Start thinking STOPTECH big brake kits and track pads. Dave Zeckhausen has a Brake shop/store out east and he knows more about this topic than anyone I've found so far. He might be able to help you on the proper pads without adding the Big brake kits.
Rim size and tire selection is critical. 30 series low profile tires may look good but are not the proper tire for cornering at the track. Just look at what the pros use and you'll see what I mean. 35 and 40 series sticky compound tires on 18" rims, (maybe 19's). I found some realy big help in this area on the forum because there really are people that track their cars quite extensively and know their stuff here.
Lastly, forced induction. Do not waste money on exhausts and intakes and pulleys and all that junk. You only get marginal returns in horsepower for thousands of dollars and it won't matter on the street or the track. For two times this cost you can add a turbo which adds 150 HP safely to your wheels. I did and now the car is complete. Super chargers are nice but require way too much babysitting, belt tightening, oil levels etc. for my liking.
I hope this is helpful because I started out just like you with everyone offering opinions but never staying focused enough to tie it all together.
I wasted money on the junk I mentioned here including exhaust and multiple tire and wheel sets and resold it to these guys on this forum.
Good luck.
First add-on, a strong Stabilizer bar front and back. I have a Hotchkis front and rear with solid poly bushings and multiple settings up to 110% stiffer. It realy makes your car solid without over stiffness and is the only way to reduce body roll. There are other bars that are just as good as long as they provide the solid bushings and are adjustable.
Everyone does the coilovers first so they can lower their car but without the stabilizers they provide little help. You may find the stabilizer bars enough for what you intend to do and this add-on is within your budget.
Next add the coilovers. You should know that Tien Basics and BC's have one stiff setting and can lower your car, that's it. So you want to track the car with one setting? Don't see the point!
I track regularly and have the Tein flex coilovers with the EDFC (electronic dampening force control) unit. You can set the dampening force 16 ways for the front and 16 ways for the rear, from soft to hard, by merely the push of a button inside the car. You get real control for oversteer or understeer while you are driving on the track. Superior to all basic coilover setups. Save up a little longer to get this as the best street and track system available.
You absolutely will need adjustable camber bars front and rear when you lower your car. We all know this as the stock settings are exceeded upon lowering and you cannot align your car without them. I use Cuscos but there are otheres just as good. With them you can adjust your wheels 2% or more for a real cornering improvement.
I added the GTspec front and rear suspension braces to make rigid the rather loose stock suspension. Embarassing how wiggly the suspension was when it wasn't tied together before the braces were installed. Now it is solid as a rock under normal and extreme tracking and cornering conditions. The big bonus is how well it handles braking under hard cornering at the track.
I found only a few people in these forums that are actually helpful on suspension. You'd think they are salesmen for the parts companies because they feel that they have to defend their purchase as the only "right" equipment to buy.
I admit the parts can be costly but when you tie them together in the proper sequence it is a night and day difference.
You cannot survive very long on the track with stock 350Z rotors, pads and calipers. When your braking fades away so does your desire to return to the track. Start thinking STOPTECH big brake kits and track pads. Dave Zeckhausen has a Brake shop/store out east and he knows more about this topic than anyone I've found so far. He might be able to help you on the proper pads without adding the Big brake kits.
Rim size and tire selection is critical. 30 series low profile tires may look good but are not the proper tire for cornering at the track. Just look at what the pros use and you'll see what I mean. 35 and 40 series sticky compound tires on 18" rims, (maybe 19's). I found some realy big help in this area on the forum because there really are people that track their cars quite extensively and know their stuff here.
Lastly, forced induction. Do not waste money on exhausts and intakes and pulleys and all that junk. You only get marginal returns in horsepower for thousands of dollars and it won't matter on the street or the track. For two times this cost you can add a turbo which adds 150 HP safely to your wheels. I did and now the car is complete. Super chargers are nice but require way too much babysitting, belt tightening, oil levels etc. for my liking.
I hope this is helpful because I started out just like you with everyone offering opinions but never staying focused enough to tie it all together.
I wasted money on the junk I mentioned here including exhaust and multiple tire and wheel sets and resold it to these guys on this forum.
Good luck.
BC coilovers are 32 way dampening adjustable, 2 way height adjustable (length vs preload). Tein Basic's are not dampening adjustable and 1 way height adjustable (preload only). They share nothing in common with one another and are for totally different types of customers. There are also far better choices out there to use than the Tein Flex (IMHO), which are woefully underdampened, and have a very narrow span of adjustment compared to other coilovers out there at a lower cost (especially after Tein's price increases, and moreso when the EDFC is factored into the equation), especially if the car is used for street use as well (again, IMHO).
Lastly, the OP says he is going to the track once in a while. The coilover that goes to the track once in a while, especially on typical street tires, is vastly different from the guy who is going even 1 time a month, on R compounds. There are units that are designed with each in mind, and each has their plusses and minusses (all of which has been discussed at length over the years in a variety of threads). The "extra" money one spends on a higher end coilover could also be used for a weekend driving school, which will improve ones lap times significantly better than any single "part" ever will. At the end of the day, the person has to set a budget, define their goals in a clear, HONEST (most people skip this part), and concise manner. From there, as I've said many times, the decisions on parts tend to make themselves.
07-11-2008, 05:08 AM
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Z1. I agree with you on the BC's. perhaps a better way to put it, the BC's only have one adjustment until you get out of your car after a hot lapping session and readjust them. You may also agree, once you start going to the track, there's the addiction of getting back to improve. A couple of lessons or riding with an instructor when they get there offers the likelihood of the best way to improve. Where did you get your training?
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