There's one brand called circuit sports and they sell rear camber arm as well as the "rear toe link"??

This is the toe link:
http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c...s_2008_1999008

Is this also what you call the "spring perch arm"? Basically what im guessing is that it replaces the "spring perch arm" but unlike SPC, it will use the OEM toe bolt. I thought the OEM toe bolt cannot allow that much adjustment to lowered cars, so im not sure how adding an arm would allow more adjustability. Maybe you know soemthing about this?

Thx!

 

If you are going with a TRUE rear coilover setup, then you can use the "rear toe link" above. If you are just getting springs, then you CANNOT use the "rear toe link" because you need the spring bucket arm to hold the lowering springs. In the rear, the shock and spring are located in two separate locations.

On a TRUE coilover setup, the spring is relocated to the shock location so you can go with the "rear toe link" if you want, but it's not necessarily. The OEM bucket arm will work just fine with the SPC Toe Bolt. The SPC is a lower cost solution that will work for 90% of Z drivers.

 

Again, you're making this way, way, way more complex than it needs to be. Do yourself a favor and pick up the Eibach or SPC rear camber toe kit (they are identical kits). They come with very easy to understand install instructions and step by step diagrams with pics have been posted here (linked in this thread too); it's well under $200 for the full kit, and it will give you all the adjustment you need. Any alignment shop could do the install for you for about an hours labor time as well (total, both sides). You're overthinking this way too much, looking at made in god-knows-where parts, that don't even have complete descriptions, and I think you're confusing yourself in the process....all in all, a recipe for disappointment and further confusion

 

^Truth...

Even without instructions, my rear camber SPC arms were pretty straight forward.

 

It may not seem hard, but beware you better start spraying pb blaster on the camber bolts now. I had air tools + breaker bar, I gunned the bolt like 5 times, tried the breaker bar, still didn't move. Finally came off after gunning it like 3 more times (no it's not a weak compressor nor is it a small compressor). I had to adjust/drop the rear strut bar so I could remove the inner camber bolt, not sure if anyone else had to do this. I also had to drop my exhaust muffler so I can get room to fit my dremel in for a perfect cut. Kind of a PITA to drop the muffler, instead of taking it off the rubber bushing I just took the entire hanger+rubber bushing hanger down all together. I had went to get an alignment the next day cause my steering wheel was off alignment.

 

Wow are you serious.... How are other people doing it then, especially with the drilling?

 

if that seems surprising to you, or out of the ordinary for an install of any type, why don't you just bring it to a professional for the install? I don't mean to be insulting, but it seems like this install might be above your mechanical ability, and you run the risk of doing more harm than good

 

I must say the install itself seems easy, but it looks like the brute strength required for breaking the bolts loose will be the limiting factor that will ultimately make me take it to a professional who has various breaker bars, wrenches and air wrenches.

 

why is it necessary to make the Toe-bolt slot bigger? don't they make kits that match the factory specs without cutting/hacking the subframe?

 

yeah this is definitely not a simple bolt on mod. wonder if you have to modify the toe-bolt holes for any aftermarket camber kit.

 

I used a longer dremel bit that allowed me to dremel both sides of the camber bolt hole from one side by just going through the first bolt hole.

Yes you have to drop your sway bar, or at least loosen it up from its mounting points so you can move it around.

Its an easy install really, much more so than a lot of stuff I have done that was supposedly "easy".

 

Do you have to dremel the slot for the Toe bolt only if the drop is greater than 1"? or do you have to do the slot regardless?

 

the only way to install/use the supplied toe bolt is to dremel it. People make a bigger deal of it than it is..it literally takes a few minutes per side to do.

 

Man, reading through this is making me head hurt. If you are THAT unsure how to do the install, take it to a shop. They will be able to do this for less than $100 i would assume.
This is not rocket science at all. You find the toe bolt, take it off, cut the hole a tiny bit bigger on both sides, reinstall new toe bolt, DONE. Why make this any more difficult than it is? If you can't do this, then you should not be working on a car at all.