i tried a search to no avail.
i currently have these on my lowered car, and the alignment tech says i've maxed out my neg camber at like -2.5 degrees or so... does this sound about right? because i wanted to run at least a -3.0 in the fronts.

thanks!

 

doesn't sound right IMO , look at them , are they maxed out?

 

I have the same problem. But only on the left...weird!

 

the max camber you can achieve will vary by car on these, or any other camber product. The max (or min) you can achieve all depends what your specs are when you start

 

i cant get a good view of them with the wheels off, i would imagine i'd have to put weight on the control arm to lower it a bit to check where its at, right?
anyhoo, i thought that entire process would be labor intensive, so i thought i'd post on here first to see what people were thinking... but yah, that doesnt seem right to me, so thats why i thought i'd post.

prior to installing these i was at -1.7 in the front, thats when i just had coilovers put on. i do know and realize that 'max camber' will always vary by car, product, and specs (how low the car sits, etc) but i want to know if anyone is running a significant amount more negative camber than myself in front

anyhoo, anyone else have any input?

thanks guys

 

Post a picture of the top of your arm, so we can see if you're using the right bolt holes

 

i know jdm is jdm, but dammit i wish i would have been able to decifer the instructions. i knew there were other holes for a reason, i just didnt want to screw around and get stuff all jacked up. iirc i believe the 'screws' are all in the middle bolt holes.

most alignment shops can undo the screws, i am assuming, right? i dont really feel like uninstalling new arms to unbolt and rebolt the screws.

 

they are simple allen bolts, so yes. To change specs, wheel just has to come off.

The instructions are useless - there is nothing for it to say really - any remotely competant shop can figure it out by looking at them. Old arms out, new arms in. The adjustment holes allow for 4 positions: +4mm, -4mm, -8mm, -12mm relative to where the ball joint was positioned with the stock arms

 

rock on. in less than 20 words you've made me feel like an idiot. well, at least i had some satisfaction and sense of accomplishment when i did the install myself lol.

thanks for the quick and timely reply Z1

 

lol wasn't my intention No point in having the parts if you don't understand how they work. The bolt holes determine how much movement you get out of the balljoint, and that translates to where your camber ends up

any other questions on them, let me know

 

my left is maxed out and I still have to much negative camber...guess I will have to raise the car a little.

 

BTW why do you want -3 , are you running R Comps on the track. If not i wouldn't go over -1.8

 

i'd be lying if i said it served some purpose, but it doesnt. i just like the look of the mad negative camber.


mad props to z1 for pulling through with the answers
z1 ftw!

 

You do know the cusco arms were designed to increase negative camber for better handling, and not to decrease it to correct camber right? They only have ~1/2 degree of positive adjustment

 

you can modify the arms to give more or less camber base on how much you're willing to drill/dremel out of the main hole to move the slider plate.

 

I'm reviving some old threads today. Any pics of cusco a arms which are modified to give more positive camber adjustment?